rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Thx. Barry. Can't wait to get this thing on the track :-)

mes

For what it's worth, I noticed that Mibosport has the motor mount listed in the sale section. IIRC Joe Pillars mentioned in a JConcepts interview last year that there should be an update by the turn of the year. Maybe they are not yet where they wanted to be, they are a bit behind the competition (Schumacher and Xray) in the EOS series. Lee Martin had some shorter shocks on his YZ-2 in Daun, maybe they will do something similar to the 4WD platform. 5.5 mm ballstuds would be a no brainer for an updated version of the car.

dayvon888

mtbwrench

iTrader: (5)

I believe they're larger diameter(more durable) than the stock ball studs.

I just picked up a kit. My first Yokomo(coming from a 22-4 2.0)! I got two sets of front/rear arms, front hub carriers, steering knuckles, rear hubs, a spare front dogbone, ball cups, bell cranks, and a steering plate as well to keep as spares. Is there anything else that typically needs to be replaced, and or is prone to breaking? I've been reading through the thread, looks like that's the bulk of it. I'll be running indoors on clay in a 13.5 stock class. Also, any common upgrades besides the typical turnbuckles, lightweight body, and BD8 composite gears/alloy pins? Trying to make sure I have all my bases covered!

Everrr

iTrader: (1)

mtbwrench

iTrader: (5)

A pro I am not, hence I have bought none of those things.

I am an average 13.5 driver, so I guess I'll stock up on more arms and carriers! Will probably upgrade to the alloy parts as well if I notice I'm breaking a bit too much. Good note on the shock caps... I skipped on them because I have never in my live broken a stock plastic cap... but seems like that's a common part to break?

Anyone using a center gear diff? I'm thinking I may like that setup more, but looking for input, especially from stock folks. I tend to mess with my diff oil setups a lot when conditions change, and I usually prefer my setups to diff out towards the front more. On my 22-4, a loose slipper pushed the drive bias frontward and I really liked that, does the Yokomo slipper introduce a bias as well, or is it pretty even?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

A center gear diff in general should feel a bit easier to drive. At least that is what I saw going from a full on slipper in my EB410 to the stock center diff and back again.

I like the feel of the diff so far in my YZ4SF so run that.

I also did the 5.5mm conversion to at least keep stuff similar to what I run on 2wd, didn't have any durability issues with the wheeler.

the RDRP steering link is supposed to cutdown on some slop from what I hear, and I have it and it seems like it didn't, but my car wasn't all slop city either.

Spares for sure a-arms. Also, I would recommend confirming what a-arms are on your car. chances are they are stock, but still confirm. Mine were S3 rears, the L5s were in the bag. So that made for a funny fix when we put the l5 on with 1 s3 still there.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Gear diff is a little more forgiving. I will put it back on when I run at a loose track. Out door tracks will more than likely benefit from it. I played with center diff oils to see how it felt. In the end I treated it like my old B64 and put 500K in ti.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

yeah I plan to grab the gear diff for outdoor season. It should make the car a little easier to drive on the lower grip / rougher tracks.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Right now what do you guys like for a shock package (piston, oil, spring) for a track that is carpet, but is bumpy in sections?

Also, with it seeming to be common going with the AE V2 springs on the vehicles for carpet (or similar rate springs), when are you guys finding you prefer the race performer carpet springs?

mtbwrench

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the help everyone! I got my kit built up this weekend and I am incredibly impressed. The plastic quality is the best I have ever seen from any kits I've built, and the manufacturing seems very nice as well. My only gripe was with bag 1... I got two bags of chassis screws, and the bag with the chassis brace screws and battery hold down m3x15 and m3x10 grub screws was missing. Thankfully I was able to get the hardware in time to get prepped for race weekend. I cut it close too... a buddy of mine cut the body out while I glued tires, and my first pack was a qualifier.

That being said, it was flawless. The shock package is smooth like nothing I've ever driven, chassis compliance is crazy, and overall drivability and durability were fantastic. I didn't have any issues with breaking arms or snapping ball studs despite a few good tumbles. My only gripe was power delivery. My electronics setup (RS Pro BE, G3 Spec-R 13.5) in my 22-4 was an absolute monster. Tons of torque and high end as well, just power everywhere generally. I typically ran this motor 3-4t less than the usual stock gearing due to how much it likes to rev. In the YZ-4 I started with 84-24, and knew I was under geared immediately. I worked my way up to a 27t pinion, and had more top end but low end grunt still felt sort of lame. I cranked the slipper down as well, and that helped, but still not much better. Inital acceleration just feels kind of "soft". From what I've seen I'm in the right gearing range for an RPM motor, and I know I'm hitting that sweet spot, as with a fan I'm coming off ~150°. Someone suggested direct drive to me, or gear diff if I want some give in the drivetrain, as even cranked down the slipper still slips too much for stock. Has anyone else ran into the same issue? I'm not too worried, because despite lacking some powerband, I was still significantly faster than my last wheeler with the same tires. Perhaps it just feels "slow" because it's so composed.

Also, how is everyone getting receiver wiring from the fan/ESC to the receiver area? I currently have mine routed above the driveshaft but it looks messy and I can see that being ripped off in a matter of time...

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Your starting range sounds about like what I was told, an FDR of about 8.5 to start (2.5 is the internal from what I recall).

when running 13.5 style and I wanted a bit more pop out of the buggy, I did the following items:

- Plastic diff gears
- aluminum pins
- clean out the bearings and run light weight bearing oil on them, you could even do ceramics on the driveline

I liked the performance I saw after the changes. I then did the titanium screw setup as well. Other item I am looking to try once they come in:

- aluminum centerline bones

I don't recall if there is a weight savings, but as I had a variety of the spur gears I use the schelle slipper setup. Iiked the snap it provided a lot. Only issue is the instructions don't have any pictures so what how you take things apart prior to building it.

For fan wiring I send the fan wire down by the ESC (basically whre I sent the ESC wire under the driveshaft over to the receiver by the servo and then under the motor. So no hopping over the spur.

mtbwrench

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the input! I ended up settling on 28/84 gearing, with a fan mounted on top. Comes off around 130° after a main. Others had suggested the diff gears, cross pins, and center bones as well. I'll get some of that ordered up. For bearings, I'll stick with the stock ones for now, until I can put in some ceramics.

Had my first race this weekend, placed 5th in the B. Not bad for my first time out.

aaron joy

iTrader: (17)

Does anyone know of any other brand diff gaskets that can be used in place of the front and rear Yokomo ones? They seem to be on backorder everywhere and I would really like to change my diff fluid out.

John Myall