Shadows

iTrader: (23)

what is the difference between these two Ti screw kits?

https://teamyokomo.com/parts/S4-TSS

https://teamyokomo.com/parts/RP-087

Both titanium, one is "standard" Yokomo Ti and the other is RP Ti... but the price difference is miles apart..

5,680 YEN versus 16,000 YEN respectively?

did the RP version come out of a Unicorns ** and polished by the tears of a forgotten angel?

carpetburner

iTrader: (8)

I am not sure if the gull wing tower works on the sf ... did you use the stock sf tower with the gull arms ? I guess it would just reduce a couple mm of droop ...
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...4-017g/p474559

rhodopsine

The Racing Performer screws are machined. They are really nice, but quite expensive.

Shadows

iTrader: (23)

Thankyou. And baby Jesus wept.

rhodopsine

On the bright side, they seem to be made out of a much harder titanium alloy. I use them on my on road cars as they are very true and can help with parts alignment. I have had in the past some problems with some generic titanium screws where the head of a countersunk screw was off and it gave me headaches trying to get my bulkheads right. Not sure I’d use them on off-road, though, and especially not on the bottom as I’d hate to see them wear out because of the chassis hitting the ground!

Martin Paradis

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Using the YZ4 (belt) +1 flat or +1 gullwing a arms works well. Standard SF front shocktower is fine.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Using the plus 1 front YZ4 a arms do not require different front universals. If you notice your bones are close to popping out of the out drives at full droop, shim the axles thus between the inner hub bearing.

stuffandthat

Can anyone post some pics of their centered servo and horn without trims. I can't seem to get mine right and wanted to see how others looked. Not sure of I have a problem with my servo, steering link, or toe links but I can't seem to get to steer properly.

Antimullet

iTrader: (65)

Did you try offsetting the horn slightly to the left wheel side? May need to in order to get proper throw both ways.

archivist

All ball links are in their default location. 17mm servo arm.

stuffandthat

I think there's my problem, I've set it to the right side.

stuffandthat

Thanks heaps. How did you get the horn dead center? Mine is sitting off a little to the right wheel.

archivist

No worries. I didn't have to do anything special this time to get the horn to be 90 degrees to the chassis. Usually I have to apply some sub-trim to get things perfected, but not in this case.

I'm curious: I thought you wanted the horn at 90. Wouldn't sub-trimming it to 90 be better than offsetting it, or is that old-school thinking?

stuffandthat

I set it off center by accident. I did it the same as I did my TLR buggies and they call for off center. I'll reposition the horn and then sub-trim the horn to 90.

caioz1jp

If i upgrade the arms to the more durable plus one arms do i need to get the following parts as well?

YZ-4 +1 arms flat YOKZ4-008F1

L5 rear arms (YOKZ4-008RL5)
rear suspension mounts (YOKZ4-300LRF, YOKZ4-300LRR)

Do I need to get different drive axels too?