Official Axial SCX10 thread
10-01-2011, 10:30 AM
#1
Official Axial SCX10 thread
Other secions have official threads, who not the Crawler secion. Maybe it'll cut down on repeat threads too
So pictures, questions, tips, dissussions, post here
My tip, if you're building the Trail Honcho kit, the ball joint AX80032 #1 (part #1 on the tree) is the same as AX80005 #1. The manual will refer to them as 80032 the whole time
Also, when filling the shocks, I put the shaft half way in, then filled with oil. Move up and down to remove air. When you're ready to top off the oil, push the shaft all the way in then fill the rest of the way. I found that if the shaft was all the way out when you put the cap on, then press the shaft it, it was hard to make it bottom it out, then it would push itself out
Lastly, be a little conservative with the grease, you don't get a lot for some reason. You hardly use the thread lock, the shock oil bottle is huge and you barely use any of that, but I want to grease the gears really well and I can't
Can't wait to finish it and run it
So pictures, questions, tips, dissussions, post here
My tip, if you're building the Trail Honcho kit, the ball joint AX80032 #1 (part #1 on the tree) is the same as AX80005 #1. The manual will refer to them as 80032 the whole time
Also, when filling the shocks, I put the shaft half way in, then filled with oil. Move up and down to remove air. When you're ready to top off the oil, push the shaft all the way in then fill the rest of the way. I found that if the shaft was all the way out when you put the cap on, then press the shaft it, it was hard to make it bottom it out, then it would push itself out
Lastly, be a little conservative with the grease, you don't get a lot for some reason. You hardly use the thread lock, the shock oil bottle is huge and you barely use any of that, but I want to grease the gears really well and I can't
Can't wait to finish it and run it
10-04-2011, 09:59 AM
#3
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If i want just a little bit more travel, what do you guys think? go with 100mm shocks? or run the ax10 shocks? im running 1.9s now, i have 2.2s as well but i dont really like them. i just want more flex
10-04-2011, 08:18 PM
#4
Yah, I need more in the front. Actually, I need to adjust the preload is all, woo!
Just finished putting in all the electrics tonight and took it for a test run. Not a lot of low end torque with the stock gearing, so may need to get a new spur and pinion
And the nylock comes off the slipper if you punch reverse too hard :P
Just finished putting in all the electrics tonight and took it for a test run. Not a lot of low end torque with the stock gearing, so may need to get a new spur and pinion
And the nylock comes off the slipper if you punch reverse too hard :P
10-04-2011, 09:21 PM
#5
with the ax10 shock run the softest springs to get like a 30% droop
10-05-2011, 07:33 AM
#6
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10-05-2011, 09:45 PM
#7
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Well just ordered a set of brand new stock ax10 shocks off of ebay! Well
See how it turns out. If I don't like them I'll
Have them up for sale shortly after.
See how it turns out. If I don't like them I'll
Have them up for sale shortly after.
10-06-2011, 10:39 AM
#9
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10-06-2011, 02:10 PM
#10
10-06-2011, 02:24 PM
#11
Other secions have official threads, who not the Crawler secion. Maybe it'll cut down on repeat threads too
So pictures, questions, tips, dissussions, post here
My tip, if you're building the Trail Honcho kit, the ball joint AX80032 #1 (part #1 on the tree) is the same as AX80005 #1. The manual will refer to them as 80032 the whole time
Also, when filling the shocks, I put the shaft half way in, then filled with oil. Move up and down to remove air. When you're ready to top off the oil, push the shaft all the way in then fill the rest of the way. I found that if the shaft was all the way out when you put the cap on, then press the shaft it, it was hard to make it bottom it out, then it would push itself out
If you scew down the cap as you slowly compress the shock you should be good to go. The shock shaft should only rebound a little over half way when your done.
Lastly, be a little conservative with the grease, you don't get a lot for some reason. You hardly use the thread lock, the shock oil bottle is huge and you barely use any of that, but I want to grease the gears really well and I can't
Pick up some Lucas Red and Tacky from Wal*mart or your local auto parts store for the axles and trans. Coat everything real good and if you plan on running in wet conditions, pack the trans and axle cases full of the red and tacky.
Can't wait to finish it and run it
So pictures, questions, tips, dissussions, post here
My tip, if you're building the Trail Honcho kit, the ball joint AX80032 #1 (part #1 on the tree) is the same as AX80005 #1. The manual will refer to them as 80032 the whole time
Also, when filling the shocks, I put the shaft half way in, then filled with oil. Move up and down to remove air. When you're ready to top off the oil, push the shaft all the way in then fill the rest of the way. I found that if the shaft was all the way out when you put the cap on, then press the shaft it, it was hard to make it bottom it out, then it would push itself out
If you scew down the cap as you slowly compress the shock you should be good to go. The shock shaft should only rebound a little over half way when your done.
Lastly, be a little conservative with the grease, you don't get a lot for some reason. You hardly use the thread lock, the shock oil bottle is huge and you barely use any of that, but I want to grease the gears really well and I can't
Pick up some Lucas Red and Tacky from Wal*mart or your local auto parts store for the axles and trans. Coat everything real good and if you plan on running in wet conditions, pack the trans and axle cases full of the red and tacky.
Can't wait to finish it and run it
10-06-2011, 02:41 PM
#12
I'm having problems with the Nylock nut on the slipper. If put in a hard reverse, it backs the nut off. I've tightened the nut as much as I could, and still let the plates slip, but it'll still backs off. I really don't want to have to play Eye Spy looking for 2 washers, a nut, and a spring 
Anyone else have problems with this?
Also, my front links barely hit the crossmember above it at full bump, or it barely hits the servo mounts if flexed all the way (one tire up, one down). Not a big concern(doesn't inhibit flexing), but was just a thought when someone mentioned taking out the bumpstops on the shaft. Some slight trimming may have to be done
Anyone else have problems with this?
Also, my front links barely hit the crossmember above it at full bump, or it barely hits the servo mounts if flexed all the way (one tire up, one down). Not a big concern(doesn't inhibit flexing), but was just a thought when someone mentioned taking out the bumpstops on the shaft. Some slight trimming may have to be done
Last edited by Armistice; 10-06-2011 at 09:58 PM. Reason: clearance question
10-06-2011, 04:28 PM
#13
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i like what im hearing 
10-06-2011, 06:32 PM
#14
my honcho i was going to run 2.2 tires and deciding to stick with 1.9 to stay with
I was going to run 2.2 but decided to stayed with 1.9. For shocks ok going to get the aluminum stock shock bodies. I have a 27t HPI motor xl5 speedo. Havent put it on trail yet still adding and tuning.
10-06-2011, 09:16 PM
#15
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that sounds like a good set up! yeah i have both set ups. to tell you the truth the truck crawls so much smoother with the 2.2s. im running a tekin 45t and a tekin fxr esc.