High Performance Nitro
09-15-2006 | 03:56 PM
#826
Thread Starter
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,977
From: Sydney
Wow ! thats pretty damn good a $300 motor keeping up with a $650 one.
We had the same results with the MM OSTZ .12 shredding the Rody worlds spec motor on the tracks.. I told Rody that at the off roads and he laughed .. Hes a top bloke .
Havlover , dont be supprised if it does man ..
We had the same results with the MM OSTZ .12 shredding the Rody worlds spec motor on the tracks.. I told Rody that at the off roads and he laughed .. Hes a top bloke .
Havlover , dont be supprised if it does man ..
09-16-2006 | 06:04 AM
#827
Originally Posted by MassiveMods
Wow ! thats pretty damn good a $300 motor keeping up with a $650 one.
We had the same results with the MM OSTZ .12 shredding the Rody worlds spec motor on the tracks.. I told Rody that at the off roads and he laughed .. Hes a top bloke .
Havlover , dont be supprised if it does man ..
We had the same results with the MM OSTZ .12 shredding the Rody worlds spec motor on the tracks.. I told Rody that at the off roads and he laughed .. Hes a top bloke .
Havlover , dont be supprised if it does man ..
10-02-2006 | 08:27 PM
#828
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 443
Massive Mods HB444 is awesome fuel.
Ran it for the first time this weekend at our state titles and managed a second place result in Monster Truck 20min A-main. My LST easily outpowered everything down the main straight using this fuel in conjuction with a massive modded stage 5 SH28-p6 prospec. Driver error was at fault for not grabbing first place.
back to the fuel:
i have never run a fuel before that keeps the temps so cool and maintains excellent power and throttle response. Each time i pulled my glow pug to check it it was spotlessly clean besides a slight film of oil on the bottom. normally my plugs are all black on the bottom!
power from the 25% HB444 at full throttle appeared to be equal to my homebrew 30% but the temp differences and tunability were huge.
i was able to tune my low speed that the truck could sit on the ground for 15sec and take off full throttle without any lag or flooding. (something i could never achieve with my hombrew)
when i put the first tank through i had to lean my low speed and high speed 2hrs and the temps were still 40F cooler than my homebrew.
for the 20min a-main my temps never got above 260F (which is where i tuned them to be) with my previous fuel it was not uncommon for my temps to hit 290F +
All in all i highly recommend Massive Mods HB444 to any offroader.
If any of you are having low speed tuning problems or experiencing high temps and it is not due to air leaks etc give this fuel a go, you will be surprised at what a difference it can make.
Massive Mods HB444 consists of 25% nitro and 12% Hybrid 3 oil
my Hombrew consisted off 30% Nitro 8% coolpower Synthetic and 6% coolpower Castor
I will never change from this fuel unless ofcourse Massive Mods improve on an already fantastic formula.
Go Massive!
Ran it for the first time this weekend at our state titles and managed a second place result in Monster Truck 20min A-main. My LST easily outpowered everything down the main straight using this fuel in conjuction with a massive modded stage 5 SH28-p6 prospec. Driver error was at fault for not grabbing first place.
back to the fuel:
i have never run a fuel before that keeps the temps so cool and maintains excellent power and throttle response. Each time i pulled my glow pug to check it it was spotlessly clean besides a slight film of oil on the bottom. normally my plugs are all black on the bottom!
power from the 25% HB444 at full throttle appeared to be equal to my homebrew 30% but the temp differences and tunability were huge.
i was able to tune my low speed that the truck could sit on the ground for 15sec and take off full throttle without any lag or flooding. (something i could never achieve with my hombrew)
when i put the first tank through i had to lean my low speed and high speed 2hrs and the temps were still 40F cooler than my homebrew.
for the 20min a-main my temps never got above 260F (which is where i tuned them to be) with my previous fuel it was not uncommon for my temps to hit 290F +
All in all i highly recommend Massive Mods HB444 to any offroader.
If any of you are having low speed tuning problems or experiencing high temps and it is not due to air leaks etc give this fuel a go, you will be surprised at what a difference it can make.
Massive Mods HB444 consists of 25% nitro and 12% Hybrid 3 oil
my Hombrew consisted off 30% Nitro 8% coolpower Synthetic and 6% coolpower Castor
I will never change from this fuel unless ofcourse Massive Mods improve on an already fantastic formula.
Go Massive!
10-04-2006 | 07:19 PM
#831
Thread Starter
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,977
From: Sydney
Hi Guys and Girls
I wanted to adress engine temps as a theroy to help desypher temp phenomena as usually encountered when changing fuels, heads pipes etc.. We will also touch on some other subjects in this thread.
When we run in an engine it is important , for the engine to last , to be run in hot and pretty much kept at the same temps for the rest of its life. So if you discover your engine likes to run at 140 deg c at a performance tune then thats where you would want to stay approximately for the life of the engine.
When you run in an engine cold what happens is the piston and sleeve fit work togehter to a cerate a certain tolerance. If you then start to run the engine hotter after this run in period thats when you will start to get over heating and flame outs, loss of power. Reason for this is the the sleeve is now expanding to its designed rate and the piston has already been run in to a tighter tolerance.
reason the engine over heats is the piston is getting blow by and the compression down stroke is not causing suction to complete the next stroke efficiently. Thus a leaning situation occours inside the engine. Also when you mix the exhaust gasses with the fresh inlet fuel it causes all sorts of wrong and erratic engine running.
So i hope this helps with the head scratching regarding this.
How do we avoid this ?
Run the engine hot from day one !
Changing Fuels
I have had people ask me why they blow engines when they change fuel. Its commonly the fuel thats to blame where in actual fact the fuel is just there as an inanimate object at the mercy of the user to re tune the engine.
When changing fuels you have to consider the temp phenomena as explained above. You may well encounter a fuel changing the temp range of your engine. This is not too much of a problem if the engine has been run in correctly, but if it was run in cool and rich then you may be in trouble when your engine runs harder, creating more heat , causing the sleeve to expand and cause blow by or even lean run which is where the POP ! happens.
Its very unusual for any fuel to singularly be to blame for an engine blowing unless it was made incorrectly. Ive heard of fuels that arent made in a lab by a chemist will blow your engine. This is the biggest load of cods wallop i have ever heard. What the hell would a chemist be wasting his time making fuel for remote control cars ?! lol Dont believe the HYPE ! making fuel in huge bulk needs to be made with precise measuring machinery thats true but there aint no guys with white coats and coke bottle glasses on making it..
A 2 stroke fuel is very easy to make and very easy to stuff up. When racing Karts we make up the fuel in a jerry can on the side of the track on a dirt surface, mix the oil and the unleaded , give it a good shake, pour it into the tank, warm the engine, give it a quick tune and off we go. Caning the crap out of it continuously for hours. And we run much leaner mixes in kart racing than in RC engines. There has never been a pre mixed fuel for Karting because of the nature of oil and benzene, it degrades the oil over time and goes off, hence the need to make it fresh. Unless you are in a sanctioned event and the fuel is made and supplied on site by the track.
So if anyone comes up to you trying to sell fuel saying their fuel is made in a lab and its made with American nitro , you know you are dealing with a shonkey. As i have encountered people try to sell a different brand of fuel to my team drivers and say all sorts of wonderful things to sell it, There is no such thing as American nitro in RC and hasnt been for over 10 years. Its all from China :shock: Chinese nitro is not more acidic than American nitro, Chinese nitro is Purer than American nitro Angus is 98% pure tops . Chinese nitro is usually between 99 and 99.9
Chinese nitro is reported to be the best and purest nitro in the world, thats why we use it. And with excellent results !
I hope this has been informative. if you have any questions please do not hesitate to call me on 02 95572770 ill be able to explain much better than on a forum to you in person.
Regards
MM
I wanted to adress engine temps as a theroy to help desypher temp phenomena as usually encountered when changing fuels, heads pipes etc.. We will also touch on some other subjects in this thread.
When we run in an engine it is important , for the engine to last , to be run in hot and pretty much kept at the same temps for the rest of its life. So if you discover your engine likes to run at 140 deg c at a performance tune then thats where you would want to stay approximately for the life of the engine.
When you run in an engine cold what happens is the piston and sleeve fit work togehter to a cerate a certain tolerance. If you then start to run the engine hotter after this run in period thats when you will start to get over heating and flame outs, loss of power. Reason for this is the the sleeve is now expanding to its designed rate and the piston has already been run in to a tighter tolerance.
reason the engine over heats is the piston is getting blow by and the compression down stroke is not causing suction to complete the next stroke efficiently. Thus a leaning situation occours inside the engine. Also when you mix the exhaust gasses with the fresh inlet fuel it causes all sorts of wrong and erratic engine running.
So i hope this helps with the head scratching regarding this.
How do we avoid this ?
Run the engine hot from day one !
Changing Fuels
I have had people ask me why they blow engines when they change fuel. Its commonly the fuel thats to blame where in actual fact the fuel is just there as an inanimate object at the mercy of the user to re tune the engine.
When changing fuels you have to consider the temp phenomena as explained above. You may well encounter a fuel changing the temp range of your engine. This is not too much of a problem if the engine has been run in correctly, but if it was run in cool and rich then you may be in trouble when your engine runs harder, creating more heat , causing the sleeve to expand and cause blow by or even lean run which is where the POP ! happens.
Its very unusual for any fuel to singularly be to blame for an engine blowing unless it was made incorrectly. Ive heard of fuels that arent made in a lab by a chemist will blow your engine. This is the biggest load of cods wallop i have ever heard. What the hell would a chemist be wasting his time making fuel for remote control cars ?! lol Dont believe the HYPE ! making fuel in huge bulk needs to be made with precise measuring machinery thats true but there aint no guys with white coats and coke bottle glasses on making it..
A 2 stroke fuel is very easy to make and very easy to stuff up. When racing Karts we make up the fuel in a jerry can on the side of the track on a dirt surface, mix the oil and the unleaded , give it a good shake, pour it into the tank, warm the engine, give it a quick tune and off we go. Caning the crap out of it continuously for hours. And we run much leaner mixes in kart racing than in RC engines. There has never been a pre mixed fuel for Karting because of the nature of oil and benzene, it degrades the oil over time and goes off, hence the need to make it fresh. Unless you are in a sanctioned event and the fuel is made and supplied on site by the track.
So if anyone comes up to you trying to sell fuel saying their fuel is made in a lab and its made with American nitro , you know you are dealing with a shonkey. As i have encountered people try to sell a different brand of fuel to my team drivers and say all sorts of wonderful things to sell it, There is no such thing as American nitro in RC and hasnt been for over 10 years. Its all from China :shock: Chinese nitro is not more acidic than American nitro, Chinese nitro is Purer than American nitro Angus is 98% pure tops . Chinese nitro is usually between 99 and 99.9
Chinese nitro is reported to be the best and purest nitro in the world, thats why we use it. And with excellent results !
I hope this has been informative. if you have any questions please do not hesitate to call me on 02 95572770 ill be able to explain much better than on a forum to you in person.
Regards
MM
10-05-2006 | 01:58 AM
#835
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,939
From: Brisbane, Australia
Hey MM,
Thought I would drop by and let you know that the Scorpion 333 fuel is awesome stuff. I ran it back to back vs Runnertime and in my non-scientific tests they seemed to make similar power and run equally as well which is a big thumbs up for the 333. Awesome fuel which can compete with, and possibly beat (with a better tuner than me :-)) the fuel used at the worlds at a much more reasonable price, cant ask for more than that!!!
Thought I would drop by and let you know that the Scorpion 333 fuel is awesome stuff. I ran it back to back vs Runnertime and in my non-scientific tests they seemed to make similar power and run equally as well which is a big thumbs up for the 333. Awesome fuel which can compete with, and possibly beat (with a better tuner than me :-)) the fuel used at the worlds at a much more reasonable price, cant ask for more than that!!!
10-05-2006 | 07:14 PM
#836
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 91
i'll through in my opinion while i'm at it, just started running mm hb444 got to say it looks like watered down cow crap, smells abit like it too, compared to other stuff i have that looks and smells like something you could drink. but it goes just like he said it would, instant drop in temp, still making as much or more power and once you tune it for the new fuel even better.
same goes for the engine i got from him, i told him what i wanted from an engine, got a moddified go-tech 7 port for a good price and it does what he said it would do.
i must say i haven't had a chance to run the fuel or engine as much as i would of liked but am very happy with both so far.
same goes for the engine i got from him, i told him what i wanted from an engine, got a moddified go-tech 7 port for a good price and it does what he said it would do.
i must say i haven't had a chance to run the fuel or engine as much as i would of liked but am very happy with both so far.
10-19-2006 | 09:46 AM
#838
There is a good article on Mark and Massive Mods on my site which was picked up ny Neo Buggy and Buggy Sport info you guys might be interested in at http://www.rubeduderc.com
direct link to the story is
Power of Massive Proportion
Cheers fellas, Mark keep up the great work!!
direct link to the story is
Power of Massive Proportion
Cheers fellas, Mark keep up the great work!!
11-07-2006 | 06:32 PM
#840
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 96
Massive
Mark did on awesome job of tuning my car on Friday. It went from a car that was hard to start and doughy off the line, to a car that now turns the tyres hard and starts first go. Thanks for fitting me into your busy schedule mate and i cant wait to get some of those mods happening. I highly recommend Massive for all your nitro needs!
regards
Chris
regards
Chris