Any Topic Thread.
02-15-2002, 07:35 AM
#121
TSR6: have you tried using better double sided tape. The tape that came with it isn't the best. You said yours wouldn't stick to the radio, funny thing is that mine stuck great to the radio, but not to the foam.
So I actually have the foam glued to the tape, and the tape is using its own adhesion to stick to the radio. If it does fall of though, I will just glue the foam directly to the trigger.
Did you use any of the grip tape. I didn't really need it. The radio feels great in my hand.
So I actually have the foam glued to the tape, and the tape is using its own adhesion to stick to the radio. If it does fall of though, I will just glue the foam directly to the trigger.
Did you use any of the grip tape. I didn't really need it. The radio feels great in my hand.
02-15-2002, 03:53 PM
#122
Darksied - The foam stuck for a very short amount of time, then fell off while doing a radio test... I have never accully run it with the foam still on. I have a brand new foam to put on, somewhere, but im not all that worried about it.
I used one layer of the grip tape. I only use it because my hand sweats when i drive sometimes, and the tape keeps my hand nice and comfy.
I used one layer of the grip tape. I only use it because my hand sweats when i drive sometimes, and the tape keeps my hand nice and comfy.
02-16-2002, 06:32 AM
#123
I have the same problem. Especially when it gets really hot during racing season. Thats why I kept the tape. I thought about my hands sweating, and figured I'd use the tape if I needed to. My old radio(3PDF) had rubberized grips at the back, so the sweaty palms syndrom wasn't an issue.
02-16-2002, 09:33 AM
#124
I used some foam from a Losi battery pad.....
It's been on for over 6 mo....from 110 to 20 deg.....
Works great....
One thing to remember is to clean the trigger before you put the foam on it....The plastic will have some release agent(oil) from the mold left on it....
It's been on for over 6 mo....from 110 to 20 deg.....
Works great....
One thing to remember is to clean the trigger before you put the foam on it....The plastic will have some release agent(oil) from the mold left on it....
02-16-2002, 10:27 AM
#125
Originally posted by Darkseid
I have the same problem. Especially when it gets really hot during racing season. Thats why I kept the tape. I thought about my hands sweating, and figured I'd use the tape if I needed to. My old radio(3PDF) had rubberized grips at the back, so the sweaty palms syndrom wasn't an issue.
I have the same problem. Especially when it gets really hot during racing season. Thats why I kept the tape. I thought about my hands sweating, and figured I'd use the tape if I needed to. My old radio(3PDF) had rubberized grips at the back, so the sweaty palms syndrom wasn't an issue.
I accually like the original yellow grip tape better than teh new black stuff. The only thing i did not like about the yellow tape, is it obviously got very dirty after a couple weeks.
02-18-2002, 04:54 PM
#126
Tech Apprentice
Hey guys, my hitec 605mg servo case broke at the top in the inside where the middle gear set shaft mounts. I go the servo in 2000 and wonder if its stil under warrenty and if changing the servo wire lead kills the warrenty or not?
02-18-2002, 05:01 PM
#127
Do you still have the receipt?
Per the website:
Our warranty does not cover cosmetic damages, damages caused by acts of God, misuse, abuse, negligence, improper installation or damages caused by alteration by unauthorized persons.
But, I would drop an email to: [email protected]
or call (858) 748-6948
If not, a case is only a few $$$...
part #: 56320
Tre's.
Per the website:
Our warranty does not cover cosmetic damages, damages caused by acts of God, misuse, abuse, negligence, improper installation or damages caused by alteration by unauthorized persons.
But, I would drop an email to: [email protected]
or call (858) 748-6948
If not, a case is only a few $$$...
part #: 56320
Tre's.
02-19-2002, 10:09 PM
#128
Tech Apprentice
I bought an HS81 plastic gear servo for my micro and the gear set stripped, so I got a metal one to replace it. I installed it, and now it wont center, it is very noisy sometimes, and isnt very precise. Is there a difference in the HS81 and HS81mg other then the gear set? Or did I possibly get a bad servo.
02-20-2002, 11:02 AM
#131
My first test with the Lynx3D had its ups and downs.
First, the XXtra was glitching where I had it mounted(the exact same place I had my XXL mounted without it glitching ever) So I wasn't happy with that at all. It was unexpected after reading so many reviews of how the XXtra did not glitch. Considering its about twice as big as the XXL, it should be shielded just as well. I had to swap the positions of my electronics around to solve the glitch. Disappointing!
Then, I went out to practice with the radio voltage at about 10.8v or maybe 11v. I started practicing at about 12noon and by 2:30, the radio was beeping and the battery was low! This was with typical on/off usage during practice. I charged the thing up almost the whole next day. The radio showed about 11.9v I think. Buy the next morning, with the radio never being turned on, the radio showed 10.8v and falling! What the hell? How am I going to make it through a typical race day 8:30-4pm with the battery dumping so fast. Usually, we have AC availible at the parkinglot track, but it isn't garaunteed. So will I make through a race day if I can't charge it up while I'm there?
Anybody else have this problem? Is it that I have not given it a full charge yet? What does the voltage show at when the radio is fully charged?
Well, at least while it was charged, it worked flawlessly. I never even noticed it in my hands. Perfect feel. It controlled my two other cars(one with a XXL, the other with a Futaba R113F) perfectly with no glitches at all.
But this battery thing has me concerned, I hope its just that I haven't charged it up well enough.
First, the XXtra was glitching where I had it mounted(the exact same place I had my XXL mounted without it glitching ever) So I wasn't happy with that at all. It was unexpected after reading so many reviews of how the XXtra did not glitch. Considering its about twice as big as the XXL, it should be shielded just as well. I had to swap the positions of my electronics around to solve the glitch. Disappointing!
Then, I went out to practice with the radio voltage at about 10.8v or maybe 11v. I started practicing at about 12noon and by 2:30, the radio was beeping and the battery was low! This was with typical on/off usage during practice. I charged the thing up almost the whole next day. The radio showed about 11.9v I think. Buy the next morning, with the radio never being turned on, the radio showed 10.8v and falling! What the hell? How am I going to make it through a typical race day 8:30-4pm with the battery dumping so fast. Usually, we have AC availible at the parkinglot track, but it isn't garaunteed. So will I make through a race day if I can't charge it up while I'm there?
Anybody else have this problem? Is it that I have not given it a full charge yet? What does the voltage show at when the radio is fully charged?
Well, at least while it was charged, it worked flawlessly. I never even noticed it in my hands. Perfect feel. It controlled my two other cars(one with a XXL, the other with a Futaba R113F) perfectly with no glitches at all.
But this battery thing has me concerned, I hope its just that I haven't charged it up well enough.
02-20-2002, 11:54 AM
#132
My batteries will make it a full race day without any issues.....
3 heats and a main with 3 classes...plus some practice.???
I charge them at 1A on a CG-335....
Are the batteries warm after you get done charging them?
That is one thing I have noticed, is that the DCX rx will operate better with lower Tx batteries than the Xxtra....DCX is also dual conversion....
3 heats and a main with 3 classes...plus some practice.???
I charge them at 1A on a CG-335....
Are the batteries warm after you get done charging them?
That is one thing I have noticed, is that the DCX rx will operate better with lower Tx batteries than the Xxtra....DCX is also dual conversion....
02-20-2002, 01:13 PM
#133
maybe your pack just needs to be cycled a few times, personally I switched my pack to a higher mah one because we run some 45 minute lemans races. but even with the stock pack was getting a full days worth of racing, 2 classes, 3 heats, mains and practice
I also got the dry cell battery tray just to have a back up.
I also got the dry cell battery tray just to have a back up.
02-20-2002, 01:23 PM
#134
Tres: nope, they aren't warm. I left them on the wall charger for almost the entire day and they never did get warm. Should I just make an adapter so I can charge them with my peak charger. I can take the charger all the way down to .5A if I need to.
newracer: yeah, I was considering buying the dry cell holder as back up. Just to be safe.
newracer: yeah, I was considering buying the dry cell holder as back up. Just to be safe.
02-20-2002, 01:31 PM
#135
I think that right after being charged the volts read about 11.2, they quickly drop to around 10.6 and stay there for a long time. Mostly I use the wall charger but I have an adapter to use one of my other charges sometimes. Usually charge at 1 amp.
I have a question about the dry cell holder. The batteries barly fit in it, it bends out the sides and then the tray barely fits into the radio, is this normal?
I have a question about the dry cell holder. The batteries barly fit in it, it bends out the sides and then the tray barely fits into the radio, is this normal?