Team Magic G4
#1036
Ever since I had the major shunt (dead car on main straight) I had been getting these occasional glitches which was getting worse as time went on, but I had noticed when trying to cycle the battery pack that the voltage was fluctuating from 8.4v to 4.5v, and whenever I touched the pack it would trip out on the charger.
Turns out that the connection tabs to the top battery (the one with the holder around it) had come disconnected and was only held in place by the shrink wrap packing.
Having now resoldered the tabs the glitches have now vanished.
Maybe those in the earlier post who have had glitching problems should check the tabs on their battery packs.
Turns out that the connection tabs to the top battery (the one with the holder around it) had come disconnected and was only held in place by the shrink wrap packing.
Having now resoldered the tabs the glitches have now vanished.
Maybe those in the earlier post who have had glitching problems should check the tabs on their battery packs.
#1037
I see there are 2 different roll bars for the rear can someone please explain the difference between the std G4 Alum. Rear Anti-Roll Bar and the G4 Rear Dual Adjustable Anti Roll Bar?
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
Mark
#1038
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by RayJ
Zoom.........Hello to Ossieland!! I tried three hole shock pistons. It's okay for a very bumpy track, but on really high bite stuff the car was really lazy and didn't react fast enough.
Car Breaker-the front wheels will be driving the car faster than the rears. The car will push.
Car Breaker-the front wheels will be driving the car faster than the rears. The car will push.
but how come my friend still say my car is oversteering? is he simply using the wrong word? (he is damn alcoholic )
#1039
Originally Posted by Car Breaker
but how come my friend still say my car is oversteering? is he simply using the wrong word? (he is damn alcoholic )
When the front pushes (slides out) in a corner
Car not wanting to turn
Oversteer (Nascar term - Loose)
When the rear pushes (slides out) in a corner
#1040
Originally Posted by RayJ
Car Breaker. Overdrive will accomplish afew things. With the above set-up on the trensmission, you have to run a 3.5 mm larger rear tire to get a 1 to 1 drive ratio front to back. In order for the car to have the correct ride height, you must lower the rear end of the car. This causes a larger angle downward for the rear suspension arm and upper camber link. This causes a lower roll center in the rear of the car. This helps in gaining rear traction if your looking to gain rear traction.
Here is your setup developed on an electronic data sheet. I'ts very interesting to see how you changed the internal drive ratio from stock 2.526 to 2.667, and actually your drive ratio front to back is close to 1 but not close enough. To do so you would have to shave your rear tires a bit more (62.22mm).
RayJ's G4 S
Front one-way pulley 32
Intrernal front shaft pulley 18
External front shaft pulley 27
External rear shaft pulley 19
Brake pulley 18
Rear dic. puley 48
1st speed pinion 19
2nd speed pulley 24
1st speed spur 51
2nd speed spur 46
Front tire Diameter 59
Rear Tire Diameter 62.5
1st speed final drive 7.158
2nd speed final drive 5.111
1st and 2nd speed Relationship 40.05%
Internal Drive ratio 2.667
Front to Rear tires Over Drive 99.64%
AFM
#1041
Did I tweak my chassis?
I had a bit of a radio problem my first time out with the car, and clipped an overlapping 2x4 fence that was laid upside down. The impact broke both left side suspension arms, bent the stinger and dented the pipe where it hit the pulley.
I checked the pins and they rolled smoothly. The chassis (complete car, not bare) did not rock when I set it on a flat surface. I put the car on the set-up machine and adjusted the suspension angles. The last thing I did was to put the car on digital scales. I had to put 1 1/2 turns in the LR spring and 2 1/2 turns in the LF spring to get the following weights;
LF 360.8 gr. RF 389.6 gr.
LR 437.5 gr. RR 438.4 gr.
I can probably do more adjusting to balance the car, but if the chassis is tweaked, maybe it should be replaced rather than chasing a problem.
Your comments/advice requested.
I checked the pins and they rolled smoothly. The chassis (complete car, not bare) did not rock when I set it on a flat surface. I put the car on the set-up machine and adjusted the suspension angles. The last thing I did was to put the car on digital scales. I had to put 1 1/2 turns in the LR spring and 2 1/2 turns in the LF spring to get the following weights;
LF 360.8 gr. RF 389.6 gr.
LR 437.5 gr. RR 438.4 gr.
I can probably do more adjusting to balance the car, but if the chassis is tweaked, maybe it should be replaced rather than chasing a problem.
Your comments/advice requested.
#1042
Thanks for the input afm
Yes I would have to take down the rear abit more. I normally run a car with a 1mm split between front and rear tires. I just like the feel of the car that way, but you are quite right in your analysis.
#1043
Originally Posted by RayJ
Yes I would have to take down the rear abit more. I normally run a car with a 1mm split between front and rear tires. I just like the feel of the car that way, but you are quite right in your analysis.
AFM
#1044
bimmer
you need to set the car on the table and lift it up from the center at each end of the car and adjust the front springs so both rear tires touch down at the same time and adjust the rear until the front tires touch down at the same point
also a crirical thing on a g4 is to make sure the front sway bar is totally seated in the holder. if it is not it will cause you tweek headaches. if your bar adjusters are not level or close to level the bar on the front is probably not fully seated.
you need to set the car on the table and lift it up from the center at each end of the car and adjust the front springs so both rear tires touch down at the same time and adjust the rear until the front tires touch down at the same point
also a crirical thing on a g4 is to make sure the front sway bar is totally seated in the holder. if it is not it will cause you tweek headaches. if your bar adjusters are not level or close to level the bar on the front is probably not fully seated.
#1045
Motorman
Dennis please call Tq fuel thanks
#1046
MTVENTEN,
Mark you have a PM.
Sam'
Mark you have a PM.
Sam'
#1047
Tech Initiate
are there any steel pinion gears available for the G4?
i have the aluminum gears which are ideal for national etc meetings (reduced rotational weight) but for the club meetings i would like a set of gears that do not wear out as quick. my 18tooth gear now has knife blade edges after only about 2.5 hours of use.
i know i have a g4e but the gears are the same/simular so i thought a posting in the latest version of the car would get a response.
i have the aluminum gears which are ideal for national etc meetings (reduced rotational weight) but for the club meetings i would like a set of gears that do not wear out as quick. my 18tooth gear now has knife blade edges after only about 2.5 hours of use.
i know i have a g4e but the gears are the same/simular so i thought a posting in the latest version of the car would get a response.
#1048
Guys i need help where i can find the EFRA rules on the web
pls reply soon as possible
pls reply soon as possible
#1049
From my opinion, the KFactory gears are the most durable in the market. But if you think the G4 gear wears too quick you have to try Kyosho one
#1050
does anyone knows about the protest presedure .
how is made
and within how many days must take a dessicion about a driver if is he descualified or not?
actualy the problem is like this , i race on sunday 30/4/2006 and they make a protest about my engine that is not an efra legal , the president of the club take the engine with him and they open it in 2/5/2006 and untill now i dont have any desicion if im discualified or not and the still have my engine . and i dont know what the efra rule says about this fact
how many days they need to deside what will happend to me and my race
what efra says about that ?
PLS CAN ANY ONE ANSWER ME EXACT WHAT IS EFRA WRITES ABOUT THE DESSICIONS HOW MANY TIME THE NEED TO GIVE ME AN ANSWER
how is made
and within how many days must take a dessicion about a driver if is he descualified or not?
actualy the problem is like this , i race on sunday 30/4/2006 and they make a protest about my engine that is not an efra legal , the president of the club take the engine with him and they open it in 2/5/2006 and untill now i dont have any desicion if im discualified or not and the still have my engine . and i dont know what the efra rule says about this fact
how many days they need to deside what will happend to me and my race
what efra says about that ?
PLS CAN ANY ONE ANSWER ME EXACT WHAT IS EFRA WRITES ABOUT THE DESSICIONS HOW MANY TIME THE NEED TO GIVE ME AN ANSWER