Team Magic G4
05-01-2006, 01:15 AM
#1021
Originally Posted by daniz24
spring red, orange, yellow. tension 0.3-0.6mm. with and without weight. 0.4-0.6mm gap. I think almost all setup we already try.
These settings should work 100% of the time (by this i mean operates not tuned 100% correctly ) Although may need adjustments to get it how you like it.
If this does not work your method of setting the clutch gap maybe suspect ?
How are you doing this.There isnt too much to go wrong with this new clutch as we have found it to be very reliable.Point to note is when adjusting the tension do this in very small increments (5 mins at a time)
05-01-2006, 09:19 AM
#1022
Toledo Set-up for GLC and everyday racing.
Here is a set-up I ran at the Toledo track that worked very well for me. Many thanks to Dennis, Brian and Dave for the set-up tips. Brian is an awesome driver. He's so smooth and can push his car way harder than I did. My car was fast......and very very easy to drive. Just wish I would have pushed it harder. Anyways here's the set-up:
FRONT SUSPENSION GEOMETRY
Ride height 4mm
Front Track width 196mm
Sway Bar flat
Front Springs- Aqua
Front Shock pistons- 2hole pistons with Associated 60wt Oil
Front shock position on A-arm- Outside hole
Front Shock position 2nd hole in on K-factory shock tower.
Front Caster- Large clip in front of upper control and two smaller clips behind
Front Toe Out- .5 degrees each side
Front Camber- 1.5 degrees each side
Steering Link on furthest hole out on Steering knuckle
Front Droop adjusted so there was no gap between shock collar and spring with the car on blocks and the suspension hanging free.
Rear Geometry
Ride height 4.5 mm
Rear track width 198mm
Sway Bar 75 degrees
Rear Springs Kit silver
Rear shock pistons two hole drilled to 1.2mm with 60wt assoc. shock oil
Rear shock position on outside hole of a-arm
Rear shock position in third hole in on shock tower
Rear Camber links...top hole on knuckle.....lower mount hole on the inside
Rear Toe in 3 degrees
Rear camber 3.5 degrees
Rear droop set the same as in the front. No gap between shock collars and spring with suspension fully unloaded.
Transmission Overdrive set-up run. Overdrive is used to help lower the rear roll center because of the 3.5mm split needed by overdrive set-up.
19 tooth side pulley
18 tooth brake pulley
Clutch Bell 19t 1st gear, 24t second gear
Ist gear spur 51, 2nd gear spur 46
Rear Diff fluid OFNA 7,000wt oil.
Clutch Set-up:
Clutch bell endplay .3mm
Clutch spring Orange
Clutch spring tension set at .75mm
Clutch shoe red
Clutch shoe weights red no added weights
Motor O.S. Richey modified with Sirio Efra 2611 pipe.
OS P8 plug with factory head clearance
Fuel used 30% Byrons Original
Tires
58mm Jaco nitro shoe fronts
61.5mm Jaco 40 2stage nitro shoe rears
Body : Didge Stratus 3.1
For the main I ran the front ride height at 4.5 mm and the rear at 5mm. Tires were 59mm and 62.5mm starting out.
If bite gets crazy I will go to 40 or 42 shore fronts, and work with the front sway bar.
Hope this helps.
FRONT SUSPENSION GEOMETRY
Ride height 4mm
Front Track width 196mm
Sway Bar flat
Front Springs- Aqua
Front Shock pistons- 2hole pistons with Associated 60wt Oil
Front shock position on A-arm- Outside hole
Front Shock position 2nd hole in on K-factory shock tower.
Front Caster- Large clip in front of upper control and two smaller clips behind
Front Toe Out- .5 degrees each side
Front Camber- 1.5 degrees each side
Steering Link on furthest hole out on Steering knuckle
Front Droop adjusted so there was no gap between shock collar and spring with the car on blocks and the suspension hanging free.
Rear Geometry
Ride height 4.5 mm
Rear track width 198mm
Sway Bar 75 degrees
Rear Springs Kit silver
Rear shock pistons two hole drilled to 1.2mm with 60wt assoc. shock oil
Rear shock position on outside hole of a-arm
Rear shock position in third hole in on shock tower
Rear Camber links...top hole on knuckle.....lower mount hole on the inside
Rear Toe in 3 degrees
Rear camber 3.5 degrees
Rear droop set the same as in the front. No gap between shock collars and spring with suspension fully unloaded.
Transmission Overdrive set-up run. Overdrive is used to help lower the rear roll center because of the 3.5mm split needed by overdrive set-up.
19 tooth side pulley
18 tooth brake pulley
Clutch Bell 19t 1st gear, 24t second gear
Ist gear spur 51, 2nd gear spur 46
Rear Diff fluid OFNA 7,000wt oil.
Clutch Set-up:
Clutch bell endplay .3mm
Clutch spring Orange
Clutch spring tension set at .75mm
Clutch shoe red
Clutch shoe weights red no added weights
Motor O.S. Richey modified with Sirio Efra 2611 pipe.
OS P8 plug with factory head clearance
Fuel used 30% Byrons Original
Tires
58mm Jaco nitro shoe fronts
61.5mm Jaco 40 2stage nitro shoe rears
Body : Didge Stratus 3.1
For the main I ran the front ride height at 4.5 mm and the rear at 5mm. Tires were 59mm and 62.5mm starting out.
If bite gets crazy I will go to 40 or 42 shore fronts, and work with the front sway bar.
Hope this helps.
05-01-2006, 09:23 AM
#1023
Forgot
Jaco 38 shore fronts for the club race.....opppsss
05-01-2006, 10:52 AM
#1024
Team magic cars are fast becoming the most popular cars at the Aldershot club.
6 TM drivers improved their personal best race times on Sunday yet we are not all running the same set up.
I have now improved from 21:307 (set with RRR) to 22:313.
6 TM drivers improved their personal best race times on Sunday yet we are not all running the same set up.
I have now improved from 21:307 (set with RRR) to 22:313.
05-01-2006, 12:16 PM
#1025
Tech Adept
Ray's car was absolutly awesome over the weekend. It was a rocket on wheels. Brian's car was a little back on power and a little overdamped in the rear but Brian put the hurt on everyone. Daves VDS car was very fast to.
G4's finished 1 and 3 in the sedan race.
Next week we get to race the masses in cincinatti at mws #1
G4's finished 1 and 3 in the sedan race.
Next week we get to race the masses in cincinatti at mws #1
05-01-2006, 12:26 PM
#1026
RayJ,
How do you find the red clutch shoes ?
How do you find the red clutch shoes ?
05-01-2006, 01:36 PM
#1027
Red clutch shoes
I like them alot. Less wear then the standard shoes, and less sensitive to overheating them.
05-01-2006, 02:05 PM
#1028
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by Motorman2
Alan
This isn't a contradiction to what your opinion as I agree with it for the most part, its just the fact that we have raced the car many different places from and have a much larger pool of information to pull from over the last 3 years we have raced the car at these and many more tracks around the US FT,Myers,Cincinatti,Sugerbowl,Rev,Vegas,Toledo,Chi cago,Wisconsin,given the current crop of engines we almost never use 19 first gear even on a track as big as cincinatti which has a 280 ft straight, On that track we will use the 19 stock internal ratio with 24 on second and 18 on first and it is just about perfect. We have raced the car all over the country and we have a real good handle on where to gear the car. Your right its engine dependent but those gear ratios work good on over the counter engines like the Rody mods and sirios. If you have to run gears taller then 18/24 90% of the time the motor you are running isn't a serious HP maker anyway. Most of the guys that run for us make the shows or are right in there. I can tell you the standard gearing we use at toledo is 18 internals with 18/23 or 24 on 59 MM tires
This isn't a contradiction to what your opinion as I agree with it for the most part, its just the fact that we have raced the car many different places from and have a much larger pool of information to pull from over the last 3 years we have raced the car at these and many more tracks around the US FT,Myers,Cincinatti,Sugerbowl,Rev,Vegas,Toledo,Chi cago,Wisconsin,given the current crop of engines we almost never use 19 first gear even on a track as big as cincinatti which has a 280 ft straight, On that track we will use the 19 stock internal ratio with 24 on second and 18 on first and it is just about perfect. We have raced the car all over the country and we have a real good handle on where to gear the car. Your right its engine dependent but those gear ratios work good on over the counter engines like the Rody mods and sirios. If you have to run gears taller then 18/24 90% of the time the motor you are running isn't a serious HP maker anyway. Most of the guys that run for us make the shows or are right in there. I can tell you the standard gearing we use at toledo is 18 internals with 18/23 or 24 on 59 MM tires
I guess we're just unexperienced guys who have been running the G4S/G4 for two years with no experience and we should just hang our head in shame when it comes to understanding how to gear it. hehehehehe......j/k kidding bud!!
I guess I wasn't wrong after all.... Since you were using a Richy Mod. OS TZ... No hard feelings... I'm happy you guys are doing well...
RC_Alan
05-01-2006, 05:02 PM
#1029
I just posted some good, neat and simple little tidbits from Muppet's car on 3hobby.net, a car/driver combo that has won the first 2 rounds of the UK BRCA Nationals.
There's a few pics and a couple of new "go-fast" stuff on his car. Check it out!
There's a few pics and a couple of new "go-fast" stuff on his car. Check it out!
05-01-2006, 05:19 PM
#1030
delete
Deleted
Last edited by RayJ; 05-01-2006 at 08:38 PM. Reason: irrevelant
05-01-2006, 08:47 PM
#1032
Overdrive
Car Breaker. Overdrive will accomplish afew things. With the above set-up on the trensmission, you have to run a 3.5 mm larger rear tire to get a 1 to 1 drive ratio front to back. In order for the car to have the correct ride height, you must lower the rear end of the car. This causes a larger angle downward for the rear suspension arm and upper camber link. This causes a lower roll center in the rear of the car. This helps in gaining rear traction if your looking to gain rear traction.
05-01-2006, 10:41 PM
#1033
Originally Posted by RayJ
Car Breaker. Overdrive will accomplish afew things. With the above set-up on the trensmission, you have to run a 3.5 mm larger rear tire to get a 1 to 1 drive ratio front to back. In order for the car to have the correct ride height, you must lower the rear end of the car. This causes a larger angle downward for the rear suspension arm and upper camber link. This causes a lower roll center in the rear of the car. This helps in gaining rear traction if your looking to gain rear traction.
05-02-2006, 02:20 AM
#1034
Originally Posted by RayJ
Here is a set-up I ran at the Toledo track that worked very well for me. Many thanks to Dennis, Brian and Dave for the set-up tips. Brian is an awesome driver. He's so smooth and can push his car way harder than I did. My car was fast......and very very easy to drive. Just wish I would have pushed it harder. Anyways here's the set-up:
FRONT SUSPENSION GEOMETRY ....... you can read this in Ray's post above so I'll clip it from here.....
FRONT SUSPENSION GEOMETRY ....... you can read this in Ray's post above so I'll clip it from here.....
Not bad for a track that's in another Hemisphere! he he.
You know a car is good when you feel it is underpowered!
05-02-2006, 03:17 AM
#1035
Response
Zoom.........Hello to Ossieland!! I tried three hole shock pistons. It's okay for a very bumpy track, but on really high bite stuff the car was really lazy and didn't react fast enough.
Car Breaker-the front wheels will be driving the car faster than the rears. The car will push.
Car Breaker-the front wheels will be driving the car faster than the rears. The car will push.