NEW XRAY T2
01-30-2006, 09:54 AM
#2431
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano
Man I have to admit...all this talk about misaligned rear-toe-in has me rethinking my purchase....I haven't even run the car yet
All new cars have issues. I keep being told again and again that xray have excellent customer service and will sort it out. Given that this is my first time owning a car near the beginning of its lifetime, I will wait and see,
I am just fed up being a free beta tester.
01-30-2006, 09:55 AM
#2432
i find this thread quite amusing to tell you the truth - this is an open forum - thus - love them or hate them - people can say what they want (within forum rules)
i have nothing but great things to say about my T2 - i have broken 2 shock bodies though, my rear shock holder/deck cracked, and i have split a battery b/c of my inability to not tape my batteries good, and a 19T head on collision with a wall didn't help either....
i am all team tamale'd up with front and rear c-hubs, as well as steering blocks - and this car handles like a champ - i have found that a 4mm spacer at the rear c-hub made a huge difference on my corner speed - i have lowered all my suspension holders flat with the .75 holders....
and all i can say is....WOW....it keeps getting better and better....i now just have to stay off the walls and i will be ok....
i am about to make it all up and ship it to Orlando....Snowbirds F-main....here i come!!!
i have nothing but great things to say about my T2 - i have broken 2 shock bodies though, my rear shock holder/deck cracked, and i have split a battery b/c of my inability to not tape my batteries good, and a 19T head on collision with a wall didn't help either....
i am all team tamale'd up with front and rear c-hubs, as well as steering blocks - and this car handles like a champ - i have found that a 4mm spacer at the rear c-hub made a huge difference on my corner speed - i have lowered all my suspension holders flat with the .75 holders....
and all i can say is....WOW....it keeps getting better and better....i now just have to stay off the walls and i will be ok....
i am about to make it all up and ship it to Orlando....Snowbirds F-main....here i come!!!
01-30-2006, 09:56 AM
#2433
Originally Posted by BritRacer
I am just fed up being a free beta tester.
tamiya who????
01-30-2006, 09:59 AM
#2434
I tried my T2 on foams yesterday (I tested it before only on rubber). First of all it was set up for rubber so I had to change it. It took 30 minutes. When I did the same on Fk05 it took 3 hours... Only this validates the change of cars for me.
After I made all the changes I just dropped the car and run a battery as a practice before the race. Maaaaaaan the car was on rails. i've never had the same feeling with my 05 on foams. It was always good but nowhere close to the feeleng of the new car. Tons of steering very easy to drive. I ended up in the last spot of the A-main which is not usual for me for whatever reason.
I had only one problem: the pin in the left rear CVD has came out twice. Second time it happened just before the start of the main - with some help I was able to fix it and run in the main but it is really annoying. I used threadlock when I built the car and the set screw was not loose but the pin slipped out somehow damaging the rear hub (it can be used but looks ugly).
According to the instruction manual the set screw should not be overtighten. I assume it is because of possible binding. I used threadlock on it and tightened it pretty much (checked but no binding) and still had the problem. I don't know what would happen if I didn't tighten it...
I may have made an error when the accident happened at first: I did not remove the old dried threadlock stuff from the threads but just reapplied some more stuff. Do you think that this laziness could cause the second accident?
Any advise would be appreciated.
After I made all the changes I just dropped the car and run a battery as a practice before the race. Maaaaaaan the car was on rails. i've never had the same feeling with my 05 on foams. It was always good but nowhere close to the feeleng of the new car. Tons of steering very easy to drive. I ended up in the last spot of the A-main which is not usual for me for whatever reason
. I had only one problem: the pin in the left rear CVD has came out twice. Second time it happened just before the start of the main - with some help I was able to fix it and run in the main but it is really annoying. I used threadlock when I built the car and the set screw was not loose but the pin slipped out somehow damaging the rear hub (it can be used but looks ugly).
According to the instruction manual the set screw should not be overtighten. I assume it is because of possible binding. I used threadlock on it and tightened it pretty much (checked but no binding) and still had the problem. I don't know what would happen if I didn't tighten it...
I may have made an error when the accident happened at first: I did not remove the old dried threadlock stuff from the threads but just reapplied some more stuff. Do you think that this laziness could cause the second accident?
Any advise would be appreciated.
Last edited by cvt01; 01-30-2006 at 10:09 AM.
01-30-2006, 10:00 AM
#2435
Originally Posted by Scrad
Dude, how can you say it is their fault the chassis split. You wrecked the car. Your not supposed to be hitting stuff. Didn't someone say Burch wrecked his car at the Novak and all the team drives scrounged stuff of the broken car. It happens.
Even if you witnessed other manufactures car cars hit the wall at greater speeds doesn't mean squat. Look at it this way. When Dale Earnhart hit the wall at Daytona everyone thought he would be ok, because the wreck wasn't that bad. The angle of the crash is what did it, not the speed.
You all need to stop bitching about breaking stuff. Shit happens. If you are so un-happy with your T2 give it to me and shut the hell up.
Even if you witnessed other manufactures car cars hit the wall at greater speeds doesn't mean squat. Look at it this way. When Dale Earnhart hit the wall at Daytona everyone thought he would be ok, because the wreck wasn't that bad. The angle of the crash is what did it, not the speed.
You all need to stop bitching about breaking stuff. Shit happens. If you are so un-happy with your T2 give it to me and shut the hell up.
01-30-2006, 10:03 AM
#2437
Originally Posted by Mr. McGoo
well, your beta testing has put you in the A two weeks in a row...
tamiya who????
tamiya who????
Shipped my stuff today....so most of you will be able to see me have my ar$e handed to me at the birds, then you will all learn the valuable lesson that you should never listen to 'experts" on forums unless they have OWNED the K main.
01-30-2006, 10:41 AM
#2440
OK, i dunno if this has already been covered, but what i have read seems most are seeing the rear toe issue in the hubs? On my car its the chassis. Simple test... get a piece of paper and a ruler and a pencil. You can strip your chassis completely apart, but isnt necessary for this test. Lay your chassis on the piece of paper with the rear bulkheads mounted, but nothing assembled on the top side, no shock tower mount no top plate, ETC. Use your calipers and measure the distance between the two halves at the front and back and take note if they are NOT the same... the rear of the rear bulkheads are farther apart on my car 1mm than the front of the rear bulkheads. Now the only square section of the chassis to measure for comparison is the sides, to see which side is actually off... the left or right of the rear bulkhead. The sides do not extend far enough to take a measure from the bulkhead F/R to the outside flat of the chassis, so you use the ruler and the piece of paper to "extend" the sides of the chassis to get a measure from each bulkhead to the line drawn. This difference when compared to the centerline of the chassis will tell you if both sides are off, or if it is actually only one side that is off. Basically it looks as if the chassis moved as they were drilling the holes for the rear bulkheads to mount. The left bulkhead is about .6mm off from the center, and the right bulkhead is about .4mm off from the center (on my car). The front half of the bulkheads are centered with the center of the chassis... but separate gradually going back, they basically add toe, but unevenly L/R. I found no irregularities in my rear hubs. They add identical toe when compared to the arm only.
To be sure, i measured thickness of the bulkheads and that each screw hole in the bulkheads were centered... otherwise this test would be flawed. Im sure if everyone else took a few minutes to check their cars we could nail this issue, and inform Xray so they could take care of it accordingly.
Hope this helps in some way...
- DaveW
To be sure, i measured thickness of the bulkheads and that each screw hole in the bulkheads were centered... otherwise this test would be flawed. Im sure if everyone else took a few minutes to check their cars we could nail this issue, and inform Xray so they could take care of it accordingly.
Hope this helps in some way...
- DaveW
01-30-2006, 10:50 AM
#2441
Originally Posted by DaveW
OK, i dunno if this has already been covered, but what i have read seems most are seeing the rear toe issue in the hubs? On my car its the chassis. Simple test... get a piece of paper and a ruler and a pencil. You can strip your chassis completely apart, but isnt necessary for this test. Lay your chassis on the piece of paper with the rear bulkheads mounted, but nothing assembled on the top side, no shock tower mount no top plate, ETC. Use your calipers and measure the distance between the two halves at the front and back and take note if they are NOT the same... the rear of the rear bulkheads are farther apart on my car 1mm than the front of the rear bulkheads. Now the only square section of the chassis to measure for comparison is the sides, to see which side is actually off... the left or right of the rear bulkhead. The sides do not extend far enough to take a measure from the bulkhead F/R to the outside flat of the chassis, so you use the ruler and the piece of paper to "extend" the sides of the chassis to get a measure from each bulkhead to the line drawn. This difference when compared to the centerline of the chassis will tell you if both sides are off, or if it is actually only one side that is off. Basically it looks as if the chassis moved as they were drilling the holes for the rear bulkheads to mount. The left bulkhead is about .6mm off from the center, and the right bulkhead is about .4mm off from the center (on my car). The front half of the bulkheads are centered with the center of the chassis... but separate gradually going back, they basically add toe, but unevenly L/R. I found no irregularities in my rear hubs. They add identical toe when compared to the arm only.
To be sure, i measured thickness of the bulkheads and that each screw hole in the bulkheads were centered... otherwise this test would be flawed. Im sure if everyone else took a few minutes to check their cars we could nail this issue, and inform Xray so they could take care of it accordingly.
Hope this helps in some way...
- DaveW
To be sure, i measured thickness of the bulkheads and that each screw hole in the bulkheads were centered... otherwise this test would be flawed. Im sure if everyone else took a few minutes to check their cars we could nail this issue, and inform Xray so they could take care of it accordingly.
Hope this helps in some way...
- DaveW
For me...I'm going to run the car as is...based on the set-up sheet...and compare it to my MSX...if they is no difference in drivability...I'll sell the T2 as i have way too much $$$ invested in Tamiya..
01-30-2006, 10:52 AM
#2442
great, will try looking at my chassis tonight and see whats up.
01-30-2006, 01:15 PM
#2445
Tech Adept
just checked the bulkheads with a steel ruler and basically looking from the top with the bumper to the front, the rear bulkhead is about 0.5mm - 1mm off to the right. im going to strip the car down and screw them back down with them clamped to a flat surface to see if this helps.