YoDog

iTrader: (28)

In addition... place the diff in the bulkheads first and make sure it spins freely. then install the bearing caps and once again make sure it spins freely. If it does, the problem lies elsewhere. Take it one step at a time until either the binding returns or the problem is resolved. Don't bother attaching the belt until the diffs/spool spins freely. you should be able to isolate the problem pretty easily this way.

Edwin Pibal

iTrader: (1)

Also check for rubbing on the chassis

I sealed all the graphite on my kit and had rubbing on both shock towers and on the chassis

Initially I though the shock tower was clamping to hard on the bearings

Ed

teamstrc

iTrader: (23)

Hello everyone,

My name is Steve Wang, owner of ST Racing Concepts (some of you that's been around here awhile, might remember me from old Speed Tech R/C days). We are looking to launch a line of titanium screw kits for the on-road racing segment. We are starting with a soft launch on the Associated TC6.2 sedan

http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...th=118_121_124

We are also offering a discount coupon code: rctech2014 for those of you that are willing to try one out.

Thanks and Happy Friday

Steve

turtlehill

The kit description says some screws are not included for strategic durability reason. Which screws aren't included? Why no pictures of the kit?

GizmoTLR

iTrader: (1)

How about a list of the screws that are included?

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Likely the screws on the bottom of the chassis. Changing these is counter productive and can be a bear to remove after awhile. The heads of Ti screws tend to strip out easily. I have another overseas branded kit on my car. I like them but I never use them on the bottom except where threaded into plastic.

teamstrc

iTrader: (23)

The screws that were not included are the M2 and M2.5 screws which due to their small size are better left to be steel material.

I can certainly have a picture of the screw kit uploaded when I'm back in the office Monday

Steve

teamstrc

iTrader: (23)

Total screw count: 96 screws
Button head: 47 pcs
Flat head: 49 pcs

Stee

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

I got several trainings sessions with the bump toe configuration behind me now and want to share my experience with you:

I started it with a 17.5t setup. For this blinky stock class I can recommend the bump toe. I found the car easy to drive in an aggressive way.

For 10.5t or stronger motors the configuration only brought negative results on track. The car is a handful to drive; very inconsistent. The rear once has grip and then suddenly steps out. I did a direct comparison today and when I changed to the standard I was within a tenth of a second for more than 10 laps in succession and I was consistently 2-3 tenth faster. This just shows how much the rear bump toe setup disturbs your driving rhythm.

In the end you could say: Save your time and money

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

What about blinky? What times were you able to turn with bump to compared to normal?

GizmoTLR

iTrader: (1)

That doesnt really help. How many 3x6 fhcs? How many 3x8 bhcs? Which screws specifically are not included for durability purposes. Thats the list that should be on the site. Right now it sounds like ur just buying the AE ones, re packaging them and re selling them. (No offense)

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Because of the ever changing track conditions (and the time it costs to convert fore and back), I have no direct time comparison. I think the lap times on the outdoor track I drive are on the same level; within thousands; but I had the feeling, that the car was more planted in fast following left-right corners (all for 17.5t).


Meanwhile I worked on a 10.5t setup for the 6.2. I still want to do some more rollcenter and hex spacing tests, but this setup is close to the optimum. It allows early acceleration and turns very well while maintaining nice rear grip:



One thing I couldn't reach until now, is a rear end, that supports turning without sliding or oversteering. Something like the perfect balance, that I had in the 6.1...

LAGuy

iTrader: (5)

On Bob’s RROC 6.2 setup, he lists the front gear diif oil as “silicone ear plugs”. Can someone let me know what that is? And inner/outer ball and shims is listed as “silver +1” etc. What does silver refer to? Thanks!

WildManDriving

iTrader: (30)

Hello all,
I have just purchased and started build my first AE TC getting the 6.2. I'm most likely have many questions to follow but start with are there other brands on gear diff's that fit and does the TC6 ball diff fit the .2?

Thanks
M.Ellis

onroad racer

Here is the link to the ear plugs, this is what Rick uses

http://www.drugstore.com/products/pr...rk=g&matchtype
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