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Old 01-23-2008, 11:08 PM
  #2641  
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Originally Posted by RocketRacer
Which would be a better performing ESC for stock (27T) racing, the GTX or the GTB? I will be running the CO27 motor.
IMO, GTX for brushed (I have both)
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:17 PM
  #2642  
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why would you say the GTX is a better option?
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Old 01-24-2008, 08:21 AM
  #2643  
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gtx is smaller, lighter and brushed specific.
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Old 01-24-2008, 08:30 AM
  #2644  
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The Novak BL/BR GTB, when used in the brush mode, has lower on resistance than the BR-only GTX speed control----0.00013 (GTB) to 0.00034(GTX)
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Old 01-24-2008, 11:52 AM
  #2645  
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Take the size and weight issues away because they are both issues you can get around easily enough, is the brushed profile on the GTB any worse than the profiles on the GTX?

Has anyone run both 6 cell versions of the GTB?

I would like to know if there's much of a difference between the standard GTB and the Spread Spectrum Optimised GTB.
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Old 01-24-2008, 01:10 PM
  #2646  
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Didn't novak use to have ss5800 motors? Why is it 13.5, 10.5, etc now?
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Old 01-24-2008, 01:36 PM
  #2647  
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Originally Posted by bionictony
Didn't novak use to have ss5800 motors? Why is it 13.5, 10.5, etc now?
All Novak BL motors' names include the number of winds on the stator. We also publish the unloaded Kv ratings of all motors in our BL Motor Spec Chart.
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Old 01-27-2008, 02:22 PM
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Can someone tell me how to check and see if Lipo-Cuttoff is enabled on my GTB? I cant seem to find my little leaflet that came with it and want to make sure before I runing my new LiPo.
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Old 01-27-2008, 09:01 PM
  #2649  
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a (skilled) friend of mine was racing my xxx-cr at a big race this weekend and the speedo on my 5800 brushless system smoked bad enough to squirt out the battery wires from the speedo. been running the same gear ratio for months.have also been running lipo's for ever, motor and speedo temps below 100 degrees. come off a big jump and just dead. then poof! my questions has anyone had any simular problems like this?
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Old 01-27-2008, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by touringdriver
a (skilled) friend of mine was racing my xxx-cr at a big race this weekend and the speedo on my 5800 brushless system smoked bad enough to squirt out the battery wires from the speedo. been running the same gear ratio for months.have also been running lipo's for ever, motor and speedo temps below 100 degrees. come off a big jump and just dead. then poof! my questions has anyone had any simular problems like this?
I did.

Regular GTB (no lipo cut-off) and 6.5R (ribbed can/sintered rotor/remanufactured/non-warranty replacement for an SS5800).

AE T4. 87/16 gearing. Dec 29, 2007 Club Race.

First time a Novak system has failed on me after more than a year of using them.

On our track, after taking the table top and then 180-deg turn, as I applied throttle to accelerate out of the corner, my T4 just stopped.

I stopped any throttle input to let it rest for a few seconds. Tried throttle and it moved but was kind of stuttering. I didn't force it and went down the driver's stand to retrieve my kit.

Kinda bummer, really, as I was in 2nd position in the heat and trying to chase down the leader.

I did a reset to the GTB and re-initialized the throttle positions (high, neutral, brake). Seemed to be OK after doing the reset and doing some throttle blips.

We didn't get to run in the 3rd heat as it rained. If it didn't rain, I'd mostly have burnt the GTB in the 3rd heat.

After that race day, I just cleaned up my T4 but I never checked/tested the BL system.

Last Jan 20, 2007 club race, I hooked up the Orion Platinum on my T4 to do some practice runs. After doing some throttle blips (holding T4 in the air), I noticed the 6.5R stuttering again.

I put the T4 back on the car stand and took off the body to check.

I did the reset on the GTB again.

I tried throttle again (wheels off ground). It was still stuttering. Prolonged throttle input and the 6.5R stopped and the GTB started burning.

I quickly put down my radio and as I hurriedly removed the deans connection to the battery, the black wire got unsoldered.

I had the colds that day, but all the guys at the pit smelled the burn.

Something went wrong to the motor that caused the GTB to burn. As to what it is, I don't really know. Maybe something to do with the locked rotor sensor?

A friend of mine thinks the 6.5R is ok. I don't dare test it on another of my GTBs for fear of also burning that GTB.

I also wouldn't want to test the GTB if I can still get it to work or not. I'm sure something is wrong with it already because of the burn smell.

Right now, both GTB and 6.5R are packed with the non-warranty form completely filled up. Just can't send it back to Novak yet as I don't have the moolah.

I also come from the Philippines but I didn't get my Novak system locally as it was cheaper for me to get it online.

Any guys from Novak who could possible shed some light as to what could have technically happened to cause this problem?
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Old 01-27-2008, 10:44 PM
  #2651  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Can someone tell me how to check and see if Lipo-Cuttoff is enabled on my GTB? I cant seem to find my little leaflet that came with it and want to make sure before I runing my new LiPo.
When you turn on the GTB, the red and amber LEDs will blink 3 times to indicate Lipo cut-off is ON.
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:58 PM
  #2652  
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Thanks, any idea what the cutoff is? I plan to just keep it on even for NIMH, anyone ever had issues with this?
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Old 01-28-2008, 12:30 AM
  #2653  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Thanks, any idea what the cutoff is? I plan to just keep it on even for NIMH, anyone ever had issues with this?
6.25V

If your NiMH can hold more than 6.25V under heavy load especially in the later stages of a 5-minute heat, then it shouldn't be an issue.
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:08 AM
  #2654  
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I forgot to add...

The non-warranty replacement 6.5R motor I used is only a few race days old. I think only around 3-4 race days.

While the GTB that got burnt was the freshest unit I had which is about a year old. The other older GTBs I have are 1.5 to 2 years old.
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Old 04-03-2008, 03:32 PM
  #2655  
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3.5 GTB can pull a 6.93 FDR on 1/10 touring.

it has so much torque from a 600watt motor you know. the only problem is can the batteries feed enough amp and not die out on that. I tried 10.5 FDR, and don't like it at all. too much motor lag and drag break etc.

I am running perfectly fine 9.09 FDR with matched 6 cells nimh. but I think the idea range is about 8 FDR, just need the lipo for some extra amp.
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