cyba888

So you feel Mi5 has more grip than your previous Xray cars?
How is maintenance easier on the Mi5....can you be more specific?
Really thinking of trying out this car to see how it compares to my T4.

Thanks!

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

There is SO much flex in the Mi5, I would imagine that the mechanical grip the car can possibly achieve would be higher. If you're on carpet, this might not be what you are looking for though, so it the point might be moot as your goal might be to tighten up the car anyway.

The Mi5 is the easiest car to work on I have ever owned. The top deck never has to come off, the spur can come off via a single screw on one side, and slides right out without having to touch the top deck, and the diffs pop out from the ends of the car by simply removing the center pulley, the cam holders, and rocking the camber plates forward.

This video is a great walk through around some of the car's basics:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5MsR...Mp60yHmzsbUQmA

cyba888

Thanks for the info I only run on large asphalt track so the extra flex may just work. Just waiting for the new update kits to hit stores in the US

haywood

iTrader: (49)

I will only run on carpet. Do you think I should install the extra top deck support?

OVA

iTrader: (86)

yes..I know a person running mod ..and he using extra support .keep from flexing too much on asphalt racing
Not surprise if Schmacher coming out with stiffer top deck soon..

Shock Tower

Maybe this is an general question, but since the problem is on my new Mi5, I will postbit here.

My problem is to getting the rear swaybar adjusted right. The one side is lifting normaly up, but the other don't make the opposite side move at all ?

I have measured the swaybar links attached to the wishbone, and the are excatly the same lenght. The angel of the swaybar links is also 90 deg as stated in the manual. Without the swaybars links attached to the swaybar, the seaybar are moving freely, and without no sloop.

I have checked the swaybar on my setup board if it is straight, and it seems like it.

So I don't have any more ideas, anyone who have a good advice ?

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Car is stellar on asphalt. I'm pretty sure it was primarily designed and tested on UK outdoor asphalt tracks.

I would. It should tame out a wee tiny bit of the steering.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Shock Tower: check and make sure there's no binding in the suspension. The arms should fall under their own weight. Then check to make sure the swaybar itself is straight by laying it flat on a setup board. Then make sure the mounts aren't too tight on the swaybar. The swaybar should fall freely with its own weight.

-Mike

Shock Tower

I checked all of the above, and there is nothing there to go after. Could it be, that one of the links should be longer thannthe other ?

OVA

iTrader: (86)

Hey Capt
Are you ready for this weekend sat?

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

You bet. Race #4 at the NW asphalt challenge. It's been a pretty strong showing in the Mi5 camp so far!

OVA

iTrader: (86)

I'm hoping to be knocking on your door this weekend..lol
if not ..Mi5 will be my next TC

jtsbell

iTrader: (16)

OVA or CAPTN where is this NW asphalt challenge?

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

(dumb question) The shocks are off, right?

Did you make sure all the ball cups (both camber links and swaybar links) are smooth and free?

Maybe one side of the swaybar is bent at different angles than the other side?

Did you set droop yet? If not, I'd set that, too. The most accurate way I know of to de-tweak a swaybar is to get the droop set perfect side-to-side, then flip the car upside down, hold the arms up against the droop screws, then release one and see how far it falls. Then hold the first and release the other and make sure it falls the same amount.

Double check that the set screw (I'm assuming there is one like the CXL had) that holds the ball on the tip of the swaybar isn't doing anything funky. Make sure the set screw is oriented in the same direction on both sides (I suggest facing the screw straight up). Make sure the swaybar isn't climbing up the inner wall of the bore in the ball (if you know what I mean). When you tighten that screw, do it very smoothly and slowly, making sure the bar settles down against the bottom of the tube. And don't over-tighten it, as that could potentially put a tweak in the swaybar.

I can't think of anything else. So if all that fails, you may just have to play with the endlink lengths to get the tweak out of it.

-Mike

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

(smartass)It's in the NW!(/smartass)

It's in the Seattle-to-Portland area.
www.northwestasphaltchallenge.com

-Mike