248LikesXray XB4 thread
01-10-2013, 01:23 PM
#1141
Well its like the 210, that took a few months to get stuff sorted and parts readily available and improvements are still being done.
I sold my XB4 and will stick with the 410 I have for a while or at least untill the V2 or V3 get released with new parts and or updates.
I don't want to be making my own bits as im no machinist and I don't want to be buying certain bits over and over again.
I will look at the buggy again but I will wait a bit untill it gets sorted, and Im pretty sure that xray will sort it, I mean they aren't going to release a buggy and just bin it are they.
I sold my XB4 and will stick with the 410 I have for a while or at least untill the V2 or V3 get released with new parts and or updates.
I don't want to be making my own bits as im no machinist and I don't want to be buying certain bits over and over again.
I will look at the buggy again but I will wait a bit untill it gets sorted, and Im pretty sure that xray will sort it, I mean they aren't going to release a buggy and just bin it are they.
01-10-2013, 03:07 PM
#1144
I've got a solution for you it's called xray's website, there is a forum with thousands of setups and all sponsored xray drivers will post setups there not on here.
01-10-2013, 03:47 PM
#1145
Tech Master
Well its like the 210, that took a few months to get stuff sorted and parts readily available and improvements are still being done.
I sold my XB4 and will stick with the 410 I have for a while or at least untill the V2 or V3 get released with new parts and or updates.
I don't want to be making my own bits as im no machinist and I don't want to be buying certain bits over and over again.
I will look at the buggy again but I will wait a bit untill it gets sorted, and Im pretty sure that xray will sort it, I mean they aren't going to release a buggy and just bin it are they.
I sold my XB4 and will stick with the 410 I have for a while or at least untill the V2 or V3 get released with new parts and or updates.
I don't want to be making my own bits as im no machinist and I don't want to be buying certain bits over and over again.
I will look at the buggy again but I will wait a bit untill it gets sorted, and Im pretty sure that xray will sort it, I mean they aren't going to release a buggy and just bin it are they.
Maybe I'm just getting more patient as I get older, but I think jumping ship is kinda premature. I can understand your feeling of being burned, but at least give them a little time to address the issue.
01-10-2013, 05:47 PM
#1146
If anyone wanting some aluminum shock towers, I have 3 left. Black ones should be here soon and I'm taking preorders too.
http://mbsracing.com/shop
http://mbsracing.com/shop
01-10-2013, 08:15 PM
#1147
Ok.... First outing with the New weapon.
Its a rocket right out of the box, Stable, Planted, heaps of grip, plenty of steering.
I started with Kit Clay setup, only differnce with i went with 7k rear oil and 19mm ride height. I love it.........
Now to the bad stuff.....
I was at the end of my first battery pack, and yep , you guessed it stripped Internal Bevel gear, Bugger! i also noticed that all of the shock caps leak where they meet/screw onto the bore.
Any thoughts on a fix for either solution, i know the bevel gear is becoming quite common but not too sure about the Shock caps.
By the way our track is High Grip+ , and a little bumpy ....
Its a rocket right out of the box, Stable, Planted, heaps of grip, plenty of steering.
I started with Kit Clay setup, only differnce with i went with 7k rear oil and 19mm ride height. I love it.........
Now to the bad stuff.....
I was at the end of my first battery pack, and yep , you guessed it stripped Internal Bevel gear, Bugger! i also noticed that all of the shock caps leak where they meet/screw onto the bore.
Any thoughts on a fix for either solution, i know the bevel gear is becoming quite common but not too sure about the Shock caps.
By the way our track is High Grip+ , and a little bumpy ....
01-10-2013, 08:54 PM
#1149
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
Simple John, try another track. 
It's interesting that some tracks and people are having so many troubles, yet the 5-6 cars at our track are not. I'm not saying that you can't build a car, but their must be something small which we are doing different to each other that are causing these issues (take out the breaking of tower and bulkheads issue).
I'm keen to see one of these issues first hand so I can inspect it personally.
It's interesting that some tracks and people are having so many troubles, yet the 5-6 cars at our track are not. I'm not saying that you can't build a car, but their must be something small which we are doing different to each other that are causing these issues (take out the breaking of tower and bulkheads issue).
I'm keen to see one of these issues first hand so I can inspect it personally.
01-10-2013, 09:35 PM
#1151
When I blew my rear diff I noticed oil had leaked all over. It seems oil was seaping out around the gasket area and the low oil probably caused the plastic gears to heat up until they stripped. I used some black gasket sealant by recommendation of my on road cars on the gasket when I rebuilt my diffs and so far so good, no signs of leakage. I also used that same stuff on my shock caps and they haven't leaked since. Looks like a $4 tube kills two birds with one stone.
01-10-2013, 10:05 PM
#1152
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
My diffs show no sign of leaking after 5 races and 30 minutes of practice on Wednesday. But I have been running a DEX410 for the last two and half years, plus have been running a Nitro tourer since they started as a class. You would say that I have had a bit of practice preparing fluid diffs.
I built my diffs like this
green lime on the o-rings and I put a little on the drive cup shaft before installing it.
Put some diff oil in (1/4), then drop the gears in, top it up some more oil. It's very important to put oil in the canal behind the satellite gears. Put the second bevel gear in, now at this stage you should not have any diff oil over flowing. It should not be completely full either, the oil needs some space to move around.
Tighten the screws as per manual.
Forget the scales. Heavier oil weight more then the lower oils. (that's a joke or is it?). Those measurement may be fine if you are using the Xray scale, but yours many not be calibrated the same.
I'm heading off to the track now for practice and a race meet. I'll post pictures of my diffs tomorrow.
I built my diffs like this
green lime on the o-rings and I put a little on the drive cup shaft before installing it.
Put some diff oil in (1/4), then drop the gears in, top it up some more oil. It's very important to put oil in the canal behind the satellite gears. Put the second bevel gear in, now at this stage you should not have any diff oil over flowing. It should not be completely full either, the oil needs some space to move around.
Tighten the screws as per manual.
Forget the scales. Heavier oil weight more then the lower oils. (that's a joke or is it?). Those measurement may be fine if you are using the Xray scale, but yours many not be calibrated the same.
I'm heading off to the track now for practice and a race meet. I'll post pictures of my diffs tomorrow.
Last edited by Boz; 01-12-2013 at 02:49 PM.
01-10-2013, 11:24 PM
#1155
I have the same old timer feelings as you, I have the 410 going great and don't see why I should have another buggy unless its all sorted. Plus I got more fro the xray than I would the 410 and parts I had.
Like you said Ill wait till the address and fix some stuff then Ill maybe look at swapping untill then Im happy with what I have.