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Old 04-21-2009, 08:53 AM
  #6856  
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Those rotors are identical.

I think they just wanted to try to avoid confusion later on when someone wanted a rotor for their ballistic motor and they pulled up a part number that said "Velociti Rotor"
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Old 05-03-2009, 10:43 AM
  #6857  
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Steve, I run 4 cell micros can i use the new 1 cell lipo smart boost module to raise the voltage on our 4 cell packs(4.8v) t0 6.ov or 7.4v.
thanks.
also maybe making the 380 motor similar to its big brothers so the sensor wire would be plug in.
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Old 05-03-2009, 02:10 PM
  #6858  
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You could technically use the smart boost to boost the voltage to your electronics (BEC voltage). The voltage increase will not effect motor speed though.

Originally Posted by bigb11
Steve, I run 4 cell micros can i use the new 1 cell lipo smart boost module to raise the voltage on our 4 cell packs(4.8v) t0 6.ov or 7.4v.
thanks.
also maybe making the 380 motor similar to its big brothers so the sensor wire would be plug in.
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Old 05-03-2009, 02:33 PM
  #6859  
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Steve, just wanted to Thank all of those at Novak who sponsored the 17.5 class in the Fl. State Series. I just mailed the certificates back to Novak with attention Steve and Jackie on the envelope. We restart in Sept. and will contact you prior to the the first race. Thanks again for the support.

Toni is signed up to run the Reedy (13.5) Race.
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Old 05-05-2009, 03:14 PM
  #6860  
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The XBR motor in my buggy has very weak brake. I only recently started noticing it because i use to run brushed with my buggy and that had enough brake from the motor itself...but with brushless, its almost as if the brake is extremely weak. I go to make a turn and i tap the break sometimes to swing the rear end around...and nothing. It takes the turn as if i didnt push the bake at all. Is this normal? Is there a setting i have to change?


also, what are your thoughts on the R9-R body? If it means anything, im talkin about the old version. Dale incorporated a running change to the front splitter for a little less front bite (by popular demand) so thats not the one im talkin about. Thanks
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Old 05-05-2009, 03:36 PM
  #6861  
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Originally Posted by tmunno
Steve, just wanted to Thank all of those at Novak who sponsored the 17.5 class in the Fl. State Series. I just mailed the certificates back to Novak with attention Steve and Jackie on the envelope. We restart in Sept. and will contact you prior to the the first race. Thanks again for the support.

Toni is signed up to run the Reedy (13.5) Race.
Tony,

No problem!

I guess I will have to root her on at the race then!

Originally Posted by Syber Serulean
The XBR motor in my buggy has very weak brake. I only recently started noticing it because i use to run brushed with my buggy and that had enough brake from the motor itself...but with brushless, its almost as if the brake is extremely weak. I go to make a turn and i tap the break sometimes to swing the rear end around...and nothing. It takes the turn as if i didnt push the bake at all. Is this normal? Is there a setting i have to change?


also, what are your thoughts on the R9-R body? If it means anything, im talkin about the old version. Dale incorporated a running change to the front splitter for a little less front bite (by popular demand) so thats not the one im talkin about. Thanks
With regard to the motor having weak brakes, your motor probably has a bonded rotor in it and those tend to weaken up signifiantly over time with use.

Your easiest/cheapest option is to send the motor in to us for a non-warranty exchange and for $49 you will get an SS Pro version of the same wind motor you have.

In regards to the R9 body I never actually ran one! I saw how they were handling on other's cars (super aggressive front end with minimal rear end grip) and just figured it would be too far of a departure from what is normally ran to be able to really get anywhere quickly with it.

I'm sure the body could be made to work, but I think you'd need to make significant changes to your setup to make it work as opposed to how your car works with a mazda6 or an LTC-R.
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Old 05-05-2009, 04:04 PM
  #6862  
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Ghai..................
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Old 05-05-2009, 04:21 PM
  #6863  
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Hey Ghai!

Are you planning on making the trip out here for the Reedy to defend your title??

I sure would like to eat a big steak in front of you and schreff with my bare hands!
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:16 PM
  #6864  
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Mr.Steve, i use an Orion 17.5 race spec motor in my buggy (and then used a Losi 17.5. Also had a 13.5 novak SS motor in it at one point). The brakes were weak across all those motors. Is it not something in the ESC i can possibly change?
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:24 PM
  #6865  
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Hi Mr. Steve,

I just want to know if it's possible to put a Velocity Light Rotor
(which is smaller in diameter) and a Velocity Light front endbell
to an EX motor? What are the advantage and disadvantage of
running a smaller sintered rotor to a lets say a 10.5T EX motor?


-Airflow
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Old 05-08-2009, 12:13 PM
  #6866  
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
Ok, here you go.

Stock Timing, Low Timing, and High Timing!
is there any rough idea how much "stock" timing is? are we talking 0, 15, ?
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Old 05-08-2009, 12:49 PM
  #6867  
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Stock timing is about 25 actual degrees.

Most of the "0, 10, 20" that you see people talking about is just sort of an arbitrary number not the actual timing of the motor.
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Old 05-08-2009, 03:19 PM
  #6868  
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Hi Steve.

Does novak sale the orange bottom casing for the GTB. i believe i have the non lipo cutoff version.

Mine has cracked for no reason and the electronics are all open. just need the bottom casing. is there a part number to it.

oh and on one of my brushless motors. one of the sensor wires came off the clip to the esc. i believe the orange one came off. how much for the repair to novak?

thanks
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Old 05-09-2009, 11:18 PM
  #6869  
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Hey Steve!

Have you guys encountered any kind of damage done to 13.5 (and other) motors from using large amounts of timing, like those in the Tekin RS and LRP SPX? I guess I don't mean heat damage, but something else? I'm finding that my motors are fading hard around 4:30 in a race, and my leading theory is that they were somehow damaged when I was experimenting with aggressive timing profiles (which I've since quit). They never got particularly hot, and the rotors still check out strong on a Zubak meter. I started a discussion on the topic here. I've seen a few other people mention similar observations in the past, and they too seemed to think it was timing related. Is there some kind of damage that could be done to affect performance beyond just heat? Thanks.
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Old 05-10-2009, 11:32 PM
  #6870  
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Hey Steve, a follow up question.

What is the timing with the ring maxed out? What is the timing with the ring set to minimum? If you could indicate these values, it would help a lot..I could create a gauge of some sort to measure the actual timing setting.

I'm tinkering with a variable timing ESC and it would be *really* helpful to know the motor timing!!

Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
Stock timing is about 25 actual degrees.

Most of the "0, 10, 20" that you see people talking about is just sort of an arbitrary number not the actual timing of the motor.
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