Xray T3 2011
#3123
Tech Apprentice
Do you guys have any tips regarding how much cleaning gum should be used in the front diff? I tried with 12 gr. at first but that felt like too little and inconsistent (when turning it with my hands) so I tried filling it up and now it seems is extremely tight and I am afraid it will break.
Well I am off to the track (carpet) now to test and we will see how it works
Br. Emil
Well I am off to the track (carpet) now to test and we will see how it works
Br. Emil
#3124
Tech Regular
Do you guys have any tips regarding how much cleaning gum should be used in the front diff? I tried with 12 gr. at first but that felt like too little and inconsistent (when turning it with my hands) so I tried filling it up and now it seems is extremely tight and I am afraid it will break.
Well I am off to the track (carpet) now to test and we will see how it works
Br. Emil
Well I am off to the track (carpet) now to test and we will see how it works
Br. Emil
#3126
Tech Regular
Do you guys have any tips regarding how much cleaning gum should be used in the front diff? I tried with 12 gr. at first but that felt like too little and inconsistent (when turning it with my hands) so I tried filling it up and now it seems is extremely tight and I am afraid it will break.
Well I am off to the track (carpet) now to test and we will see how it works
Br. Emil
Well I am off to the track (carpet) now to test and we will see how it works
Br. Emil
Bb
#3127
Tech Regular
#3129
I've found the T3'11 doesn't like a real big split F/R on shock oil.
450cst with 3 hole pistons and kit springs seems to suit me pretty well on asphalt. The front feels soft, but the balance is very good. I had too much on throttle oversteer on corner exit running thicker front shock oil.
#3130
Tech Apprentice
Thanks guys. The gear diff with cleaning gum ran without problems and the car felt incredibly! I was positively surprised how consistent it feels
Br. Emil
Br. Emil
#3131
Tech Addict
Anybody tried Zeppin flex chassis? How does it perform?
#3132
Tech Regular
#3133
An alternative for you might be to mix the 2. Right now I've got H1/H2 holders on the front [long low position, 2mm on the outside link], and L1/L2's on the rear [long high position, 4mm on the outside link]. Great rotation without drama, good balance for my purposes on asphalt.
The H1/H2 holders have a different offset than the L1/L2's, so you're not going to be able to 100% duplicate the L1/L2's with H1/H2's. You might be able to split the difference between them by mounting them opposite sides, but they won't be identical.
Camber gain by itself won't negate or enhance any roll center adjustment, you need to tune it to suit the amount of roll your car has along with the static camber.
I also have no problems with the composite shocks, but I think if I had to replace them, I would probably just pick up the XRay alloy's. It's not that I mind modding shocks to suit a purpose, but I would have to find a good set of used Tamiya shocks at the right price to break out the Dremel without feeling a little guilty.
The H1/H2 holders have a different offset than the L1/L2's, so you're not going to be able to 100% duplicate the L1/L2's with H1/H2's. You might be able to split the difference between them by mounting them opposite sides, but they won't be identical.
Camber gain by itself won't negate or enhance any roll center adjustment, you need to tune it to suit the amount of roll your car has along with the static camber.
I also have no problems with the composite shocks, but I think if I had to replace them, I would probably just pick up the XRay alloy's. It's not that I mind modding shocks to suit a purpose, but I would have to find a good set of used Tamiya shocks at the right price to break out the Dremel without feeling a little guilty.
I was running the tamiya shocks, they are great shocks, easy to build and work pretty well for most tracks. My local track is bumpy as all hell and they just didnt have the damping I was looking for, so I went to the xray alloy shocks. Big improvement over the composite as they include pistons with multiple hole sizes, I am liking the 1.1mm hole pistons. They give a great damper pack on open bumpy asphalt.
As easy as the tamiyas to build for sure, drill the ole in the top cap and 0 rebound first time every time. And for some reason the bladders dont seem as difficult to get into the alloy shocks.
Only Problem I have found is they tend to burp air into them after a big crash a bit easier than the composites or tamiyas.
Get them both from online shops and try them for yourself, you are going to have to ruin your composite shocks top cap for the tamiyas to fit, so be prepared for a no back out install if u want. Once you sand down the ring under the xray cap the bladder never fits right in the composite shocks.
#3134
Tech Addict
iTrader: (23)
What pistons are you using?
I've found the T3'11 doesn't like a real big split F/R on shock oil.
450cst with 3 hole pistons and kit springs seems to suit me pretty well on asphalt. The front feels soft, but the balance is very good. I had too much on throttle oversteer on corner exit running thicker front shock oil.
I've found the T3'11 doesn't like a real big split F/R on shock oil.
450cst with 3 hole pistons and kit springs seems to suit me pretty well on asphalt. The front feels soft, but the balance is very good. I had too much on throttle oversteer on corner exit running thicker front shock oil.
#3135
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Im running a t2 007 and i have 3 hole piston all the way around. My problem is if i try to carry any speed in fast turns off the thorttle mid turn the rear just wants to slide out. Guy at track told me runner harder springs Xray Blue is all i had 22.5lbs and it was realy slow response in the steering and would still spin out every once in awhile im also running 2.5deg rear camber 3deg rear toe in and 36 exp sweeps ( everyone runs 36 or hard solaris there) and have no tweak in the chassis