Like Tree2Likes

Xray T3 2011

Old 12-19-2011, 03:43 PM
  #3871  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
 
haywood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,877
Trader Rating: 49 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by bucketboy
Cut the top deck, reshape the chassis like the 12 and move the servo east west, transformed the car when I did it, much wider set up window, back end is now glued to the track.

Bb
Picture please?
haywood is offline  
Old 12-19-2011, 11:42 PM
  #3872  
Tech Elite
 
morgoth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Belgium
Posts: 2,942
Default

Originally Posted by haywood
Which ones do you recommend removing?
I drive without the 2 screws in the motormount, but I have seen guys with 2 screws in the mountmount and 2 screws in the most rear holes of the bulkhead. I haven't tried adding or removing more screws. I'll try that next time.

Originally Posted by bucketboy
Cut the top deck, reshape the chassis like the 12 and move the servo east west, transformed the car when I did it, much wider set up window, back end is now glued to the track.

Bb
Did you use a 2012 chassis to mark the bigger cuts in the chassis and then just dremel the chassis?
morgoth is offline  
Old 12-20-2011, 01:10 AM
  #3873  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 290
Default

Originally Posted by haywood
Picture please?
I found a photo of a 12, printed it off then marked my 11 chassis using screw holes as referance points, not exactly the same but pretty close.



Page 233

Bb
bucketboy is offline  
Old 12-20-2011, 02:49 AM
  #3874  
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
 
Sith Lord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Canberra, ACT, Australia
Posts: 1,405
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by haywood
How often do you guys tune with adding or removing top deck screws? Also could someone post a picture of their servo mod and the length of the linkage? Thanks.
There's a bit of info back on page 255, from samnelso, myself and skiddins. I made my linkage about 52.5-53mm as per samnelso's advice and it's about perfect. A bit of fine tuning here and there.....
Sith Lord is offline  
Old 12-20-2011, 12:56 PM
  #3875  
Tech Elite
 
morgoth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Belgium
Posts: 2,942
Default

Originally Posted by bucketboy
I found a photo of a 12, printed it off then marked my 11 chassis using screw holes as referance points, not exactly the same but pretty close.



Page 233

Bb
I called a friend and I can use his car tomorrow! Gonna mask my chassis with painting tape and draw the contour of the 2012 on it.
morgoth is offline  
Old 12-20-2011, 01:19 PM
  #3876  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
 
haywood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,877
Trader Rating: 49 (100%+)
Default Ecs shafts

When doing maintenance (after about two or three race days) I disassemble and clean and reassemble with hudy grease and loctite the set screws in place and then heat shrink the joint. No matter what I do it always seems like the set screws are loose whenever I do take them apart. I always make sure the set screw is hitting the flat spot on the pin also. These ecs shafts have caused me several headaches before I got smart and heatshrinked the joint to keep the small parts in place and not all over the track! Am I missing something? Thanks
haywood is offline  
Old 12-20-2011, 01:40 PM
  #3877  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
samnelso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Fitchburg, MA
Posts: 1,751
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by haywood
When doing maintenance (after about two or three race days) I disassemble and clean and reassemble with hudy grease and loctite the set screws in place and then heat shrink the joint. No matter what I do it always seems like the set screws are loose whenever I do take them apart. I always make sure the set screw is hitting the flat spot on the pin also. These ecs shafts have caused me several headaches before I got smart and heatshrinked the joint to keep the small parts in place and not all over the track! Am I missing something? Thanks
Mine get loose from time to time, but not too frequently. I didn't put heatshrink on one esc the last time I rebuilt it and that was maybe 40 or so packs ago and it's still good. Nevertheless, it is something that should be addressed. Maybe dip the set screw in PlastiDip or get nylon self-locking setscrews from mcmaster or something.
samnelso is offline  
Old 12-20-2011, 01:49 PM
  #3878  
Tech Elite
 
morgoth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Belgium
Posts: 2,942
Default

Originally Posted by haywood
When doing maintenance (after about two or three race days) I disassemble and clean and reassemble with hudy grease and loctite the set screws in place and then heat shrink the joint. No matter what I do it always seems like the set screws are loose whenever I do take them apart. I always make sure the set screw is hitting the flat spot on the pin also. These ecs shafts have caused me several headaches before I got smart and heatshrinked the joint to keep the small parts in place and not all over the track! Am I missing something? Thanks
Have you tried sanding the bottom of the setscrews? It have a setscrew comming lose on my 1/8 e-buggy until I sanded the setscrew with a medium grid sandpaper. The surface should be rough and this will it grip better on the pins. And you might try to sand the flatspot also a little.
morgoth is offline  
Old 12-20-2011, 02:32 PM
  #3879  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
 
kinga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 614
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Bit of help required, I followed my own advice, after alot of mucking around with settings recently I went back to Kit settings.
I have found the car reacts very well and has good steering but is loose off and on power.
My setup is here
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
The only things I can see different is I am running front diff with 500k cst oil and cut top deck. Droop settings are in mm O.R.H.
Not sure what I am missing. I have an uncut top deck to try, but I thought the cut top deck was supposed to imrove rear traction.
Tried two sets of known good tyres. It has been so long since I ran even close to kit setup but was very happy with the amount of steering and front end accuracy, just need to tighten up the rear
kinga is offline  
Old 12-20-2011, 02:37 PM
  #3880  
Tech Elite
 
morgoth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Belgium
Posts: 2,942
Default

Originally Posted by kinga
Bit of help required, I followed my own advice, after alot of mucking around with settings recently I went back to Kit settings.
I have found the car reacts very well and has good steering but is loose off and on power.
My setup is here
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
The only things I can see different is I am running front diff with 500k cst oil and cut top deck. Droop settings are in mm O.R.H.
Not sure what I am missing. I have an uncut top deck to try, but I thought the cut top deck was supposed to imrove rear traction.
Tried two sets of known good tyres. It has been so long since I ran even close to kit setup but was very happy with the amount of steering and front end accuracy, just need to tighten up the rear
Have you tried 1 of front camber? I haven't tested much with my 2011 yet (drove it 3 times), but I did some setup on my mates Mi1 that was oversteering and after setting the front with 1 of camber and the rear with 2 of camber it was a lot better. Don't about the xray, but I think it's worth trying it.
And maybe try a softer oil in the rear like 400 or 350 and lower the ride height in the rear to about 5mm - 5.2mm. I found that my car was too lose when my ride height in the rear was 0.3mm higher than the front.
morgoth is offline  
Old 12-20-2011, 02:38 PM
  #3881  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
 
haywood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,877
Trader Rating: 49 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by kinga
Bit of help required, I followed my own advice, after alot of mucking around with settings recently I went back to Kit settings.
I have found the car reacts very well and has good steering but is loose off and on power.
My setup is here
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
The only things I can see different is I am running front diff with 500k cst oil and cut top deck. Droop settings are in mm O.R.H.
Not sure what I am missing. I have an uncut top deck to try, but I thought the cut top deck was supposed to imrove rear traction.
Tried two sets of known good tyres. It has been so long since I ran even close to kit setup but was very happy with the amount of steering and front end accuracy, just need to tighten up the rear
Lean the rear shock to inner hole. I also will run 3 inboard and 1 outboard rear toe to lock in the rear of the car.
haywood is offline  
Old 12-20-2011, 02:42 PM
  #3882  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,761
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by kinga
Bit of help required, I followed my own advice, after alot of mucking around with settings recently I went back to Kit settings.
I have found the car reacts very well and has good steering but is loose off and on power.
My setup is here
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
The only things I can see different is I am running front diff with 500k cst oil and cut top deck. Droop settings are in mm O.R.H.
Not sure what I am missing. I have an uncut top deck to try, but I thought the cut top deck was supposed to imrove rear traction.
Tried two sets of known good tyres. It has been so long since I ran even close to kit setup but was very happy with the amount of steering and front end accuracy, just need to tighten up the rear
Try moving your rear shock out one or two holes. And try less droop in the rear. Even in Crisps setup book it says the opposite could apply with shock angle, so with what your saying, if its a traction feel, move them down one, if its a over rotation move them out one. You'll have to try and see which one works for you.
Johnny Wishbone is offline  
Old 12-20-2011, 02:53 PM
  #3883  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
samnelso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Fitchburg, MA
Posts: 1,751
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by morgoth
Have you tried 1 of front camber? I haven't tested much with my 2011 yet (drove it 3 times), but I did some setup on my mates Mi1 that was oversteering and after setting the front with 1 of camber and the rear with 2 of camber it was a lot better. Don't about the xray, but I think it's worth trying it.
And maybe try a softer oil in the rear like 400 or 350 and lower the ride height in the rear to about 5mm - 5.2mm. I found that my car was too lose when my ride height in the rear was 0.3mm higher than the front.
Honestly, the setup matrix and setup guide on xray's website is $.
samnelso is offline  
Old 12-20-2011, 03:12 PM
  #3884  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
 
M-Technic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 2,562
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by haywood
Lean the rear shock to inner hole. I also will run 3 inboard and 1 outboard rear toe to lock in the rear of the car.
I would say 4* of rear toe might be too extreme for 17.5 stock class.

kinga, without knowing what type of track or how much traction you race on, I have some ideas for you to try. First, you said your droop settings are over ride height. 6mm front and 5mm rear is A LOT of droop and can cause the car to behave erratically. I would stay within the realm of 1.5-3.5mm over ride height most of the time. Here are some ideas to try:

-level out the ride height to 5mm all around, or if your track is bumpy, 5.5mm all the way around
-move your front L1/L2 holders to the lower/inner position and/or add more shims to the outside of the camber link, to take some bite away from the front end
-lean the rear shock in all the way. I basically always ran my T3'11 with the rear shock all the way in
-open the rear shock piston to 4 hole or go with slightly softer oil
-go back to 52mm shafts all the way around as they make more traction
-if you are still looking for rear traction, you can try the -0.75mm roll center holders in the rear.
M-Technic is offline  
Old 12-20-2011, 05:22 PM
  #3885  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
 
kinga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 614
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by M-Technic
I would say 4* of rear toe might be too extreme for 17.5 stock class.

kinga, without knowing what type of track or how much traction you race on, I have some ideas for you to try. First, you said your droop settings are over ride height. 6mm front and 5mm rear is A LOT of droop and can cause the car to behave erratically. I would stay within the realm of 1.5-3.5mm over ride height most of the time. Here are some ideas to try:

-level out the ride height to 5mm all around, or if your track is bumpy, 5.5mm all the way around
-move your front L1/L2 holders to the lower/inner position and/or add more shims to the outside of the camber link, to take some bite away from the front end
-lean the rear shock in all the way. I basically always ran my T3'11 with the rear shock all the way in
-open the rear shock piston to 4 hole or go with slightly softer oil
-go back to 52mm shafts all the way around as they make more traction
-if you are still looking for rear traction, you can try the -0.75mm roll center holders in the rear.

I am runnin 3 degrees of toe in at the moment, I will reset the droop to 3 front and rear. One of the local guys was telling me he runs something like 9mm ORH front and 7mm ORH rear droop.
- The track we run on is very bumpy, even with 5.5 it scrubs and bottoms alot.
- I tried the front lower inner L1/L2 positions, didnt have a whole lot of effect, was still erratic. Putting anymore spacers on top of the camber link just makes the wheel rub on the screw
- I will try 450cst front and 350cst rear on the shocks maybe
- cant run 52mm drive shafts in the rear with the xray gear diff. XRAY lie when they say you can, you cant, I have tried and everyone at our club has tried. Unless you cut down the blades or shim the arms out, at 3 degrees rear toe in 52mm doesnt fit.
- Tried the -75 rear roll center holders. Fixes the traction and locks the rear, but then the car runs REALLY SLOWLY though the corners and loses corner speed compared to the normal ones. I will try the other suggestions first.

I suspect it is the droop setting combined with the front diff, as it wasnt doing it with front spool before
kinga is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.