rbarciko

The tc6.1 wc supplement page has a diagram with the part numbers:

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ent-9-2012.pdf


You can try http://www.tqrcracing.com for tc6.1 parts

flag72

iTrader: (18)

any trics to see if the belts tension is o.k. ...I read how to make theme looser or tighter but how do you know if there O.K.

thanks
Danny

rc car guy

Its another tuning option a tighter front belt will pull the rear end around because it takes off first and a tighter rear belt will make the rear take off first try kit settings and go from there

Buurin

I recently bought a used TC6.1 without a pinion and the wrong spur gear.

How do I remove the spur gear?

Looking at the manual it seems like I would need to remove the front and rear shock towers to expose the front spool and rear diff. From there I could remove tension from the front and rear belts which would allow me to remove the spur gear.

Is this the correct approach?

Thanks
B

flag72

iTrader: (18)

you only need to remove the rear DIFF assembly look at the manuel carefully.and remove the 2 screws from the spur older follow the manuel it should be E.Z. ...be carefull and remember were the belt tensioner were located...mark theme if you have to

enjoy

rMa

I roll the front belt off the front pulley and unscrew the two screws holding spur axle in place. As the front belt is no restricting the spur&axle comes right off. After re-assembling the spur the front belt can be rolled back on the pulley with a little help from a hex tool.

Buurin

Does prying the belt off risk damaging the belt?

I ended up removing the rear shock arms, rear diff, top of the rear springs (optional), and the ball cups at the top of the tires (optional). This gave me very comfortable access.

Thanks
B

racer034life

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for the link and info. Im going to put my tc6.1 back to wc spec. After putting the rsd conversion on my car i wasn't a fun. Also besides exotech who else makes a good floating bellcrank system for the tc6.1

rMa

Not really. I don't actually pry the belt but push it gently over to left while rotating the pulley. Comes off really easy. I have never damaged a belt this way. Might be different if the belt was really tight but I'm driving stock classes and keep the belts as loose as possible without skipping over the pulley teeth.

rc car guy

or you can leave the bearing caps on and just remove the top deck, and the two spur gear screws doesnt hurt the belt and only takes about 5 minutes to remove all screws and have the spur gear assembly completely disassemble

shanwright

iTrader: (25)

Ok guys,
What's the descission making process behind deciding the best height to run the diffs. To be clear which cam which orientation mid high/low or high high or low low..
Is it to run them as low as posable to keep the CG low?
Or is it to keep them in line with the wheel hub to keep the axel close to the horizontal?
Or is there a third consideration?
I run with foam tires so I do run down to some smaller diameters. So ride height and geometry does change compared to rubbers.


What's your thoughts?

Here's a thought of mine. Run them as low as posable but to low could mean pully damage. Ie with low low the front spool just sits above the iunderside of the chassis..
Good stone catcher...

Steve H

jpx

I put this question to Keven Herbert but obviously didn't have time to reply yet. I'm courious about his and all the others answers!

Greets, Jan-Peter

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

pretty good info here from HUDY:
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/showfile.p...252739b1ad8c24

RussF

iTrader: (22)

..

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

If you roll the belt off of the front pulley, you will only need to remove the 2 screws on the idler shaft. It's very easy and quick. It's also a good idea to change those 2 screws to cap head rather than button head screws as they are less prone to stripping. They are M2.5 x 8mm.