3LikesMUGEN SEIKI MRX5
10-10-2011, 02:13 AM
#2311
On throttle you will have more steer, off throttle it can make the car a bit unstable at the rear (difference front/rear gives a friction in driveline). It is a setting normally used on smal tracks with lots of corners.
But you must give it a try what you think is best for you.
But you must give it a try what you think is best for you.
10-11-2011, 05:44 AM
#2313
You have to look at the front up-rite from the side as well as dead ahead to see the change in angles that the position of the plate causes. The line will go thru the center of both piviot balls.
H2111 would be the middle setting. A balance of camber gain, roll center and scrub
H2130 hole to the inside. Aggressive turn in, a little more camber gain as the wheel is turned due to the "line" being leaned in toward the chassis which seems to off-set the loss of side bite the shorter arm will cause. I really like the car with these plates, 2mm shim under upper outer arms pivot ball, hinge pins up...
H2130 hole out side. Less response, smoother entry and you may see a slight loss of side bite due to the loss of some camber gain. This could be fixed with the clips. Have not tested this, it's effect I find undesirable.
H2131 hole forward. Your really laying the axle back, lots of side bite, very smoooooth corner entry, very stable front end. Ran the car with these on at our first state race at Homestead. If the bite would have been really high I would have left them on. The car was like butter. Due to the increase in side bite you get to soften up the rear end to generate more mechanical grip and I ended up with a STUCK buttery smooth car. This is not for Fort Myres. Think big and flowing track.
H2131 hole towards rear. Have not ran it this way. Should provide similar results as moving the upper arm all the way forward. Violent steering response with side bite that may fade the deeper into the turn you are, you should be able to help regain some side bite with castor and static camber.
H2111 would be the middle setting. A balance of camber gain, roll center and scrub
H2130 hole to the inside. Aggressive turn in, a little more camber gain as the wheel is turned due to the "line" being leaned in toward the chassis which seems to off-set the loss of side bite the shorter arm will cause. I really like the car with these plates, 2mm shim under upper outer arms pivot ball, hinge pins up...
H2130 hole out side. Less response, smoother entry and you may see a slight loss of side bite due to the loss of some camber gain. This could be fixed with the clips. Have not tested this, it's effect I find undesirable.
H2131 hole forward. Your really laying the axle back, lots of side bite, very smoooooth corner entry, very stable front end. Ran the car with these on at our first state race at Homestead. If the bite would have been really high I would have left them on. The car was like butter. Due to the increase in side bite you get to soften up the rear end to generate more mechanical grip and I ended up with a STUCK buttery smooth car. This is not for Fort Myres. Think big and flowing track.
H2131 hole towards rear. Have not ran it this way. Should provide similar results as moving the upper arm all the way forward. Violent steering response with side bite that may fade the deeper into the turn you are, you should be able to help regain some side bite with castor and static camber.
Last edited by MugenDrew; 10-12-2011 at 04:58 AM.
10-11-2011, 07:12 AM
#2314
You have to look at the front up-rite from the side as well as dead ahead to see the change in angles that the position of the plate causes. The line will go thru the center of both piviot balls.
H2111 would be the middle setting. A balance of camber gain, roll center and scrub
H2130 hole to the inside. Aggressive turn in, a little more camber gain as the wheel is turned due to the "line" being leaned in toward the chassis which seems to off-set the loss of side bite the shorter arm will cause. I really like the car with these plates, 2mm shim under upper outer arms pivot ball, hinge pins up...
H2130 hole out side. Less response, smoother entry and you may see a slight loss of side bite due to the loss of some camber gain. This could be fixed with the clips. Have not tested this, it's effect I find undesirable.
H2131 hole forward. Your really laying the axle back, lots of side bite, very smoooooth corner entry, very stable front end. Ran the car with these on at our first state race at Homestead. If the bite would have been really high I would have left them on. The car was like butter. Due to the increase in side bite you get to soften up the rear end to generate more mechanical grip and I ended up with a STUCK buttery smooth car. This is not for Fort Myres. Think big and flowing track.
H2131 hole inside. Have not ran it this way. Should provide similar results as moving the upper arm all the way forward. Violent steering response with side bite that may fade the deeper into the turn you are, you should be able to help regain some side bite with castor and static camber.
H2111 would be the middle setting. A balance of camber gain, roll center and scrub
H2130 hole to the inside. Aggressive turn in, a little more camber gain as the wheel is turned due to the "line" being leaned in toward the chassis which seems to off-set the loss of side bite the shorter arm will cause. I really like the car with these plates, 2mm shim under upper outer arms pivot ball, hinge pins up...
H2130 hole out side. Less response, smoother entry and you may see a slight loss of side bite due to the loss of some camber gain. This could be fixed with the clips. Have not tested this, it's effect I find undesirable.
H2131 hole forward. Your really laying the axle back, lots of side bite, very smoooooth corner entry, very stable front end. Ran the car with these on at our first state race at Homestead. If the bite would have been really high I would have left them on. The car was like butter. Due to the increase in side bite you get to soften up the rear end to generate more mechanical grip and I ended up with a STUCK buttery smooth car. This is not for Fort Myres. Think big and flowing track.
H2131 hole inside. Have not ran it this way. Should provide similar results as moving the upper arm all the way forward. Violent steering response with side bite that may fade the deeper into the turn you are, you should be able to help regain some side bite with castor and static camber.
10-11-2011, 08:57 AM
#2315
You have to look at the front up-rite from the side as well as dead ahead to see the change in angles that the position of the plate causes. The line will go thru the center of both piviot balls.
H2111 would be the middle setting. A balance of camber gain, roll center and scrub
H2130 hole to the inside. Aggressive turn in, a little more camber gain as the wheel is turned due to the "line" being leaned in toward the chassis which seems to off-set the loss of side bite the shorter arm will cause. I really like the car with these plates, 2mm shim under upper outer arms pivot ball, hinge pins up...
H2130 hole out side. Less response, smoother entry and you may see a slight loss of side bite due to the loss of some camber gain. This could be fixed with the clips. Have not tested this, it's effect I find undesirable.
H2131 hole forward. Your really laying the axle back, lots of side bite, very smoooooth corner entry, very stable front end. Ran the car with these on at our first state race at Homestead. If the bite would have been really high I would have left them on. The car was like butter. Due to the increase in side bite you get to soften up the rear end to generate more mechanical grip and I ended up with a STUCK buttery smooth car. This is not for Fort Myres. Think big and flowing track.
H2131 hole inside. Have not ran it this way. Should provide similar results as moving the upper arm all the way forward. Violent steering response with side bite that may fade the deeper into the turn you are, you should be able to help regain some side bite with castor and static camber.
H2111 would be the middle setting. A balance of camber gain, roll center and scrub
H2130 hole to the inside. Aggressive turn in, a little more camber gain as the wheel is turned due to the "line" being leaned in toward the chassis which seems to off-set the loss of side bite the shorter arm will cause. I really like the car with these plates, 2mm shim under upper outer arms pivot ball, hinge pins up...
H2130 hole out side. Less response, smoother entry and you may see a slight loss of side bite due to the loss of some camber gain. This could be fixed with the clips. Have not tested this, it's effect I find undesirable.
H2131 hole forward. Your really laying the axle back, lots of side bite, very smoooooth corner entry, very stable front end. Ran the car with these on at our first state race at Homestead. If the bite would have been really high I would have left them on. The car was like butter. Due to the increase in side bite you get to soften up the rear end to generate more mechanical grip and I ended up with a STUCK buttery smooth car. This is not for Fort Myres. Think big and flowing track.
H2131 hole inside. Have not ran it this way. Should provide similar results as moving the upper arm all the way forward. Violent steering response with side bite that may fade the deeper into the turn you are, you should be able to help regain some side bite with castor and static camber.
10-12-2011, 03:01 PM
#2316
The 2 Tungsten battery weights listed below I am selling if any of your MRX5 guys are interested.
I sold my MRX5, and no longer need the weights
I only have the 2 plates I made for my car and a friends.
100$ each + shipping ( cost to make 2 was about 440 the plate it self was almost 200 un cut they are in perfect shape)
PM me if interested
I sold my MRX5, and no longer need the weights
I only have the 2 plates I made for my car and a friends.
100$ each + shipping ( cost to make 2 was about 440 the plate it self was almost 200 un cut they are in perfect shape)
PM me if interested
Ok This started as 4 x 4 x .250
Here are my 2 weights I had made out of tungsten and my brass weight.
The brass weight is 40g
The 2 Tungsten weights are 148 each.
The thickness of the brass weight is 2.0mm
The thickness of my tungsten weights are 3.25
Here are the pictures.
Here are my 2 weights I had made out of tungsten and my brass weight.
The brass weight is 40g
The 2 Tungsten weights are 148 each.
The thickness of the brass weight is 2.0mm
The thickness of my tungsten weights are 3.25
Here are the pictures.
10-12-2011, 09:12 PM
#2317
Tech Initiate
Wanted to know if you guys place body clips to allow the body to rest on it at the front body posts, or just let the body rest on the bumper itself ?
10-13-2011, 07:00 AM
#2318
Arrowmax released Clutch Shoe
10-17-2011, 06:26 AM
#2321
The season has come to an end in the Northeast. The final race was the Sky Rocket Invitational held in Delaware. The MRX-5 finished 1st, 2nd, 3rd in the A-main .
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10-17-2011, 10:18 AM
#2322
