Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Doh! Friggin writers. My wifes an English major. She drives me nuts with that crap.

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

LOL Jon. My Father in-law was a teacher for over 25 years, along with my mother in-law, sister in-law, and wife...if you think I'm bad, you should have to deal with them.

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Adrian, thanks for the kind words on the coverage today. Would have liked to have talked more but I had the boss (aka the Wife) calling in. Portland was a fun race to cover, especially when 2 friends, Paul and Hodge, both had good runs. Just so I have your reccomendations down:

2 degree front carriers
+1mm shim under the rear mounts
no shims under the front
New rear hubs

Did I miss anything? Besides the swaybar thing I mentioned to you, I did try running the same inserts front to rear and the car turned in waaaaaaay hard, uncontrollable. But when I went to a firmer front insert it desensitize the front end. I wonder if I would have moved the steering links to the middle hole in the bell cranks and kept the softer front inserts if that would have worked too. That's one of the nice things on this car, so many setup options, but not overly complex. Like Ottoman said, the car was pretty good too, but it's good to know that it can be better.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

OK..you need to run the same tires and inserts front and rear. Thats is what all of our setups are based on. You will then need to dial out steering. Which is a lot easier that dialing in steering.

Try PW's setup EXACTLY with the same tires/wheel/inserts front and rear then start tuning from there.

wolfracing

Just wondering, has any bod replaced the shocks on their mission s1, i was thinking of repacing mine, with mabee hpi or tamiya evo ones, but not quite sure.
I'm not real satisfied with the stock ones(they leak and are not so smooth)

Wolf

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

While we only ever used Schu shocks on the Mission I dont see why you wouldn't be able to make make the Tamiyas fit. You will have to fool around with the shock ends to get the right over all lenght.

MattW

Wolf, the std shocks can be made a little smoother by changing the small bottom seal for an MIP Blue one. These are generally smoother and are also a slightly better seal.

That said i did fit my Tamiya ones once. Like Adrian says you just need to sort the bottom shock mounting to get the correct length. I used the Associated botom eyelet as that was the perfect length. Also a std one with about 2mm cut off should be about right.

scott_g

iTrader: (9)

PW<

If you took your nats setup to a quite slippery and very bumpy track, what initial changes would you make to try to generate traction and cope with the bumps?


scott

PW

Well I've never run in those conditions with the Mi2, so this would be a guessing game for me.

1. Go back to the stock rear hubs and use the outter most hole. Use 3deg in-board rear toe.

2. Stock roll-centers front and rear.

3. Lighter rear oil like 35wt and maybe even try AE green spring.

Try on thing at a time

Chazz

Hi guys i've just won a mi2 kit (s1 version) at the btcc championship in England and i must say it was quiet a nice build and i can't wait to see how it runs on the track

Chazz

dway100

iTrader: (7)

I am getting a Mi2 but I have a few questions.
Do the stock bearings need degreasing?
Can you adjust the belt tension on the rear belt?
How stiff is the standard carbon chassis?
How is the car on small carpet tracks w/rubber tires?
Since I will mostly be running rubber tires do I need to get the lower shock towers?
I noticed in some of the pics on this thread that some people are removing the front screw on the motor mount- what is the reason for doing it?
Thanks
David

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Need degreasing, no, but you could. The drivetrain is very free once built.

Rear tensioning is adjustable, but I know a lot of people, including myself, that took all the tensioniers except for 1 off.

The car is pretty stiff, but on carpet something like the Temuu chassis would probibally work better.

I did some testing with my car with a brushless on rubber tires on carpet, and the car was bone stock...It ran very strong. Now I do have the carpet towers, so that's what I am running now.

front screw on the motor mount???

dway100

iTrader: (7)

The front screw on the motor mount/bulkhead just above the motor.

mo

iTrader: (7)

We have been running without that screw because it give the chassis more equal flex from left to right since it is an odd screw that is only on one side of the car.

dway100

iTrader: (7)

Is the flex the same both ways with the top plate still sitting on the motor mount or do you file it down some so that it does not touch?