Michal101

iTrader: (13)

Hey,

Can anybody tell me if Part # 30 5220 Spring steel front drive shaft set will fit the FK with the short arms? I do know that these are slightly different than those of the FK, but I would like to know that I could use them in a pinch if I had too.

Thanks, Mike

zjp_rc_racer

yes they should fit mike. The fk driveshafts are in fact weaker than the original evo2 ones though.

bigl

iTrader: (51)

anyone else now which one works

Michal101

iTrader: (13)

RC racer,

I appreciate your prompt reply. So, I guess I will hold on to them then.

Thanks, Mike

zjp_rc_racer

bigl- you'll need to use the wire type sway bar for the short arms. If you have long arms you can use the blade type sway-bar personally I found them to be a pain in the butt.

Hondaguy

You're right. I'm glad you said something because I have that diff already. My lhs sold me the 5001 diff when I tried to order my FK thru them. But, I just found out that the 5001 diff is not "low ratio". Just ordered a 5002 from KT Hobbies. Hopefully, he has some coming. Thanks, you saved me some aggravation.

tonyv

iTrader: (1)

Well, I guess I had this coming didn't I

Let's distinguish between two things:
(1) the length of the upper link
(2) the angle of the upper link

Let's assume upper link and lower suspension arm are parallel to each other and have equal length. Let's also assume the camber angle is zero degrees when the car is at rest. In this case when the suspension compresses both arms will follow a similar arc. As a result the camber angle on the will stay the same, i.e. remain at zero degrees irrespective how far the suspension compresses. So, no camber change!

Now shorten the upper link to say half the previous length. Now the upper link will follow a tighter arc and therefore the will increase (i.e. top of wheel will lean in towards the car's centerline). Obviously making the top link longer than the lower suspension arm will have the opposite effect...

Now for the angle. Let's assume the link is parallel with the arm and the of the same length again. In this case the roll center is as low as it can pragmatically go given the position of the lower suspension arm. Now angle the link down towards the centerline of the car. This will have two effects:
(1) The roll center at that end of the car is raised higher!
(2) When the suspension is compressed the top of the will start lean in again (positive camber change)!

Given the above it should now be clear what the shorter and slightly angled rear upper link gives us: higher roll center and positive camber change. The higher roll center makes the car more reactive while the increased camber change minimizes the resulting loss of rear traction when cornering . This helps us destroy the competition .

Rick Draper

Not long now till the worlds and we get to see the Xray shaft drive touring car Rick

c-lyon

iTrader: (8)

bigl, if you go to www.wcrccc.v21hosting.co.uk/xraymod.htm
there are photos showing how you can use the blade type with short arms. I think it was posted earlier on this thread but I can't find it. I've just put shorts on my original chassis, and might try it if needed.

Pyramid

No, I'm not that well planned kind of guy

Anyhow, thanks for the explanation. I will defintely try shorter link + angled down on the next rebuilt. EP has been very very slow in growth this year in our country. In fact already starting to fall apart. I guess others have no more reasons to compete with Xray! and all has blown their wallets for this most expensive class (competition level wise).

JCB

Has anyone tried this setup? If so how did it work out? Better than the regular sway bar setup?

thanks,

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Would be cool-are you talking fact or wishful thinking. Cause I'd buy one!!

Ray

Rick Draper

Rick

Rob Mincey

Ooooooooo... Xray shaft? Now THAT would keep me from buying a TC4.

Rob

Rick Draper

Wait till the worlds and things will be there for all to see . Rick