lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

Any Xray drivers have the XXX-main setup book???
I'm looking to get one,but i dont know if it has more info than the 'free' setup book from Xray.
Anyone?

2000xp8

Hey guys, my xray is in the mail, and i just want to get all the drivers needed to work on it, before it comes.

Probably has this info here, but 213 pages is a little much to look through.
And i really didn't think this called for it's own thread.

Nut drivers?
Allen keys or drivers?
Star drivers?

Thanks.

lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

1.no nut drivers needed
2.1.5mm,2.0mm,2.5mm hex drivers.a 1.5mm/2.0 allen key is good for adjusting the diffs.
3.Star drivers?Do u mean the pozi heads?not needed.

J FAST

i have both and read both. the xxx main goes more into depth its a good book helped me alot. it has a quick refernce in the back i still use from time to time. Jesse

2000xp8

Thanks, that was exactly all the info i needed.

I guess star drivers and pozi drivers are the same thing, i'm used to working on real cars, and we just call them star keys.

AdR|aN

You can get another 3.0mm hex driver to make your construction of the dampers/absorbers a breeze.

lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

thanks

RCchica

I had a question. I am planning on getting the team kit but some people are telling me that it is only for carpet. Any info on that would be great.

John Fontaine

iTrader: (2)

No, all xrays can be driven on asphalt with changes to the setup. What part of PA are you from. If from the Philly area, I can help you if are racing at tracks around the area.

John

sands

Probably want to get a chassis protector for the bottom of the graphite. Associated and others make them for about $8. otherwise you may need to replace the chassis every season if it starts to delaminate.

Stiff chassis will work for any surface, especially the xray since you can get different top decks to adjust the flex. essentially you need to run a softer suspension setting with slightly higher ground clearence. Rubber tires will make droop adjustment simple since you won't need to check them every run as tires wear.

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

I just converted to the short arms and have a problem. I installed the rear arm with the droop screws toward the front of the arm. I am running purple spring all the way around. This is on an evo2 chassis. What I am noticing is that the rear arms flex quite a bit with the droop screws to the front and the springs mounted to the rear. i set my droop without the shocks mounted and then once I mount the shock, my droop gauge reads almost 2mm lower. Do I have the arms mounted upside down? or what is going on. I am using zero degree anti-squat and both arm mounts are toward the top.

thanks

RCchica

Well right now I have the freedom of choice car. This weekend I am going to Hobbytown USA in West Chester to race. I race it on asphalt and carpet right now and it works just fine for me. Thanks for your input.

~Trinity

and yes my name is actually Trinity lol

Rob Hochberg

John, that's Trinity Wiker, you know her. You coming to the ORL this sunday? I might have a lacrosse game tommorow, so I might not be home, if I am, we can talk after I get home.
-Rob
Oh yeah, one more thing, come out to Malvern Prep and watch us play, you can see how the pros do it before your adult league starts. The game starts around 4:30!

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Theisgroup-I have the short arms installed and theres none of the problems your experiencing. You also have the arms mounted correctly.
For now-just set your droop by the lift the chassis method till you get the correct amunt of lift. Then take off the wheels and make sure right and left are equal and race it!!


I will tell you this-the droop adjsutments are BIG now. A little turn of the droop screw is a big change in droop!!!

Ray

sands

That is spring pre load flexing the arms. The lever on the droop screws and arms makes it really easy to flex them.

Ray is correct, do what he said.

Only thing I can add is to check ride height before you start with droop screws, then after too,