E.J. Evans

Attached is the right setup.

Hey Guys,

Attached is my setup for the 2.25 lipo (stiff) chassis. This is the setup I used to win the South Africa Nationals and also the same setup I've been using at Norcal Hobbies (home of the 2010 Reedy Race and 2010 Roar Nationals). It's slightly different from my 2009 Reedy Race setup.

If you get a chance give it a try.

If you are using the standard 6 cell rubber chassis then use the Medium High roll centers.

EJ

E.J. Evans

Thanks Fred! Your car was pretty good as well!!!

Thanks for the catch! I've revised it on another post.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

EJ I took care of it

darrenoakley

There is a slim chance that that could be the problem once or twice at the most but 6 times ? I do mark my Bearing cams in order for this not to happen and have been even more carefull since this has started happening. Worth checking though Cheers

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

Sorry to hear of your spool problems, that is very strange you have had that many failures.

I can't really think of what is causing this but just a few more things to look at would be...

Check the part number of the spools your getting from your hobby shop to make sure its the new version.

Do you have your axles staggered? If not try that as it will free up the front of the car some and take some stress off the spool in cornering. Staggering I mean to install one axle at 12-6 o'clock positions, other side do at 3 and 9.

I believe you said you replaced the front axles, but if they have a lot of slop in them it could be hammering the spool with all the free play.

Make sure your front end is free. Its doubtful, but pull the front bulkheads off and verify they are flat. If they are not it could be putting the spool into a bind causing heat to soften the plastic. Also I would check the camber link plates to see if they are squishing down on the bearing holders too tight. That could generate heat that would be transfered to the spool. If that is the case, some very very thin 3mm shims can be installed to lift the plates up some, and that would free up your car some.

Last thing I would tell you to do is epoxy the spool cups in It would strengthen it without adding much weight at all.

Good luck, hope you figure it out soon!

pmc

Hello

I run in the last weekend the second round of the national championship in
Portugal in the stock class.

I end in 7th place.

this is my setup
(the rear toe in is 3 degrees)


Best regards:
Pedro Silva

Iceman 69

hey EJ whats happening mate, it was great having you here in SA showing us how its done.
could you post your foam set up you used in the mod race.
Later

Skitee

EJ thanks for posting the setup, just to add to iceman's question did you run the 2.25 Lipo chassis on the Mod car too.

E.J. Evans

Hey Skitee, how's it going over there! A little late for you isn't it? I ran the 2.25 stiff chassis in 10.5 Rubber and 2.25 extra stiff in Foam Mod. But I think in foam modified you can get away with running the 2.25 stiff and hard top deck. Let me know how it goes.

E.J. Evans

Hey Iceman, I'll post it in a couple days. I have to go look at my car.

E.J. Evans

THANK YOU!!!!

ralph m

iTrader: (35)

EJ,

On the setup you just posted...Are you reversing the belts and can you check the droop settings on that sheet?

Thanks,
Ralph

E.J. Evans

Hi Ralph, I'm running the belts the standard way. If I was trying to get weight down under 1400 then I would reverse the belts so I can take off weight and still balance the car L/R.

The droop is correct. 5.5 in the front (measured to the bottom of the arm under the outer hing pin) and 0.5 in the rear (measured under the connector piece of the hub).

pakk

iTrader: (80)

what chassis can you reverse the belts with? I can't do it with the chassis I have.

E.J. Evans

Here is my setup as a PDF.

Remember this is with the 2.25 lipo chassis stiff. If you are running the standard 2.5 Rubber Chassis then use the medium high roll centers.