LRP Vector x12 Brushless Motors
11-07-2011, 10:08 PM
#526
ok, took the car out this weekend and had some problems with the car starting from a stop. you give it gas and it just sits there and ticks a little bit. sometimes it will go and other times you have to give it a little push.
running Vegas212 on my RS.
seems to do this in blinkly more and with custom profile where i added a bunch of boost.
running Vegas212 on my RS.
seems to do this in blinkly more and with custom profile where i added a bunch of boost.
11-12-2011, 01:05 AM
#527
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
I have just fitted a heat sink and fan to my LRP X12 17.5T, running boosted. The reason being is that with the same FDR as others at the track I am still getting 105 to 110 deg C.
I haven't tried the heat sink and fan yet to see how well they work. Anybody know how much drop in final race temperature I could expect?
The fan I fitted faces forward and sucks air away from the motor. Is this correct, or should the fan be blowing air onto the motor? I thought that blowing air onto the motor would be better.
Do most people running boosted use a heatsink and fan on the LRP X12 17.5T ?
The heat sink and fan weighs 24g, and the car is already overweight without them. Hence, I am not sure if I will keep them on, depends how much the final race temperature drops.
I haven't tried the heat sink and fan yet to see how well they work. Anybody know how much drop in final race temperature I could expect?
The fan I fitted faces forward and sucks air away from the motor. Is this correct, or should the fan be blowing air onto the motor? I thought that blowing air onto the motor would be better.
Do most people running boosted use a heatsink and fan on the LRP X12 17.5T ?
The heat sink and fan weighs 24g, and the car is already overweight without them. Hence, I am not sure if I will keep them on, depends how much the final race temperature drops.
11-12-2011, 01:47 AM
#528
It looks like your running it in dual mode and your sensor cable is giving you trouble.
The only time you get stutter when starting up is with a unsensored motor or a faulty sensorcable.
Regards Roy
The only time you get stutter when starting up is with a unsensored motor or a faulty sensorcable.
Regards Roy
ok, took the car out this weekend and had some problems with the car starting from a stop. you give it gas and it just sits there and ticks a little bit. sometimes it will go and other times you have to give it a little push.
running Vegas212 on my RS.
seems to do this in blinkly more and with custom profile where i added a bunch of boost.
running Vegas212 on my RS.
seems to do this in blinkly more and with custom profile where i added a bunch of boost.
11-12-2011, 01:52 AM
#529
Temp drops about 10 to 15 degrees depending on fan size.
If you have that high a temp you have some problem as i don't have those temps with a 13.5 in boosted mode.
Are you running the default timing insert on the motor?
What car are you running?
No binding bearings any where?
Didn't you overtime the motor on the ESC??
I know, these are a lot of questions but we need more info before we can help you
Show us your settings and what you are running.
regards Roy
If you have that high a temp you have some problem as i don't have those temps with a 13.5 in boosted mode.
Are you running the default timing insert on the motor?
What car are you running?
No binding bearings any where?
Didn't you overtime the motor on the ESC??
I know, these are a lot of questions but we need more info before we can help you
Show us your settings and what you are running.
regards Roy
I have just fitted a heat sink and fan to my LRP X12 17.5T, running boosted. The reason being is that with the same FDR as others at the track I am still getting 105 to 110 deg C.
I haven't tried the heat sink and fan yet to see how well they work. Anybody know how much drop in final race temperature I could expect?
The fan I fitted faces forward and sucks air away from the motor. Is this correct, or should the fan be blowing air onto the motor? I thought that blowing air onto the motor would be better.
Do most people running boosted use a heatsink and fan on the LRP X12 17.5T ?
The heat sink and fan weighs 24g, and the car is already overweight without them. Hence, I am not sure if I will keep them on, depends how much the final race temperature drops.
I haven't tried the heat sink and fan yet to see how well they work. Anybody know how much drop in final race temperature I could expect?
The fan I fitted faces forward and sucks air away from the motor. Is this correct, or should the fan be blowing air onto the motor? I thought that blowing air onto the motor would be better.
Do most people running boosted use a heatsink and fan on the LRP X12 17.5T ?
The heat sink and fan weighs 24g, and the car is already overweight without them. Hence, I am not sure if I will keep them on, depends how much the final race temperature drops.
11-12-2011, 01:54 AM
#530
I have just fitted a heat sink and fan to my LRP X12 17.5T, running boosted. The reason being is that with the same FDR as others at the track I am still getting 105 to 110 deg C.
I haven't tried the heat sink and fan yet to see how well they work. Anybody know how much drop in final race temperature I could expect?
The fan I fitted faces forward and sucks air away from the motor. Is this correct, or should the fan be blowing air onto the motor? I thought that blowing air onto the motor would be better.
Do most people running boosted use a heatsink and fan on the LRP X12 17.5T ?
The heat sink and fan weighs 24g, and the car is already overweight without them. Hence, I am not sure if I will keep them on, depends how much the final race temperature drops.
I haven't tried the heat sink and fan yet to see how well they work. Anybody know how much drop in final race temperature I could expect?
The fan I fitted faces forward and sucks air away from the motor. Is this correct, or should the fan be blowing air onto the motor? I thought that blowing air onto the motor would be better.
Do most people running boosted use a heatsink and fan on the LRP X12 17.5T ?
The heat sink and fan weighs 24g, and the car is already overweight without them. Hence, I am not sure if I will keep them on, depends how much the final race temperature drops.
11-12-2011, 11:30 AM
#531
ill try the sensor wire in my 12th and see if i get the same behavior. it makes sense as sometimes it wont go into boost either.
but its possible, all my stuff is used. =)
wouldnt be the esc as i set it specificly for sensored mode in both profiles.
but its possible, all my stuff is used. =)
wouldnt be the esc as i set it specificly for sensored mode in both profiles.
11-12-2011, 02:25 PM
#533
bah.. that posibility too i guess. one guy int he club suggested i keep a couple of them around if i was gonna seriously run the motor. another guy says they dont work unless you have a lrp speedo.
but this is going to run in a blinky car. so i wonder how important it is to run a sensored system at all.
but this is going to run in a blinky car. so i wonder how important it is to run a sensored system at all.
11-13-2011, 10:06 AM
#534
Tech Apprentice
Which motor for mod?
Hi, my Nosram Pure Evolution 4.0T (same as LRP X12 4.0T) blew the front bearing this weekend so I am in the market for a new motor.
My home track is a VERY BIG asphalt track (probably the biggest RC track in Europe).
My ESC is a Nosram Pearl ISTC V2.
In general I was happy with the combination apart from the temperatures I was seeing. The motor would reach easily 95C in a 5min run when pushed hard. I had tried lowering the gearing but it did not help much and I lost top speed so went back to where I had it (FDR 6.94).
I was in the process of trying a bigger FDR while also changing the timing insert to the 2dot (0 degrees) when my bearing decided to commit suicide so I will never know how this would affect temperatures.
Some guys seem to be able to have the same speed as me with a lot lower temperatures (although this is with motors and ESCs from other brands) with motors like 5.0T or 5.5T.
So my question is should I buy the same motor or switch to a 5.0T or 5.5T motor?
Thanks
My home track is a VERY BIG asphalt track (probably the biggest RC track in Europe).
My ESC is a Nosram Pearl ISTC V2.
In general I was happy with the combination apart from the temperatures I was seeing. The motor would reach easily 95C in a 5min run when pushed hard. I had tried lowering the gearing but it did not help much and I lost top speed so went back to where I had it (FDR 6.94).
I was in the process of trying a bigger FDR while also changing the timing insert to the 2dot (0 degrees) when my bearing decided to commit suicide so I will never know how this would affect temperatures.
Some guys seem to be able to have the same speed as me with a lot lower temperatures (although this is with motors and ESCs from other brands) with motors like 5.0T or 5.5T.
So my question is should I buy the same motor or switch to a 5.0T or 5.5T motor?
Thanks
11-13-2011, 12:23 PM
#535
Tech Adept
Sorry but 6.94, for a 4.0T is not very good for motor, 95ēC is not bad, but with this gear ratio, a 4.0 don´t have suficient torque to move it at full rpm, your motor never go to top.
I run in big 1/8 tracks, with 4.5 normal and Octa, with 8.2 - 8.5 FDR, at same ESC than you, with prog 3 (boost) 6-8 depend of the straight, temp 92-95C , 116 Km/h max top speed.
Sorry for my english.
Greetings, Luis C.
I run in big 1/8 tracks, with 4.5 normal and Octa, with 8.2 - 8.5 FDR, at same ESC than you, with prog 3 (boost) 6-8 depend of the straight, temp 92-95C , 116 Km/h max top speed.
Sorry for my english.
Greetings, Luis C.
11-13-2011, 01:02 PM
#536
Tech Apprentice
I tried 7.6 but I lost top speed.
Then I tried 8.4 but I also changed the timing insert to 2 dots from 4 dots.
For the few minutes I managed to try it this setup seemed ok but then the bearing broke.
Feel was set on 2 and boost on 3.
Are you sure you use 6-8 boost settings? It seems too high for a 4.5T motor.
Then I tried 8.4 but I also changed the timing insert to 2 dots from 4 dots.
For the few minutes I managed to try it this setup seemed ok but then the bearing broke.
Feel was set on 2 and boost on 3.
Are you sure you use 6-8 boost settings? It seems too high for a 4.5T motor.
11-14-2011, 12:18 PM
#537
Tech Adept
I always use 4 dot insert, and yes 6-8 boost, depend of the long straight.
Feel, is low in 2, but if you are confortable, i use sometimes too.
And i always use the alu front house, ref: 90635, litle less temp.
I like, the new version, 4.0 in ESC, more smooth and very fast with litle less temp.
Greetings, Luis C.
Feel, is low in 2, but if you are confortable, i use sometimes too.
And i always use the alu front house, ref: 90635, litle less temp.
I like, the new version, 4.0 in ESC, more smooth and very fast with litle less temp.
Greetings, Luis C.
01-02-2012, 07:16 PM
#538
problems
i just bought a used lrp xtec x12l short course 5.5 motor for my 4wd and it seems to have no take off at all or top end speed behind it seems really lazy what could be the problem. i do no have a lot of knowledge when it comes to brushless stuff...i have the mamba max pro esc with it. thanks for the help mike.
01-03-2012, 03:14 AM
#540
how can you tell if the sensors are bad i know with the tekin the likes blink when u roll it but with the lrp how do you know?? thanks