Aeon Racer

Not necessarily, because I had the problem and I solved it when I still had the old tank. The new tank helps, I agree, but none the less that's not the only reason why he might be dying when refilling. Anyway, the RTR comes equipped with the new tank, so he definetely has one.

theRED5

I saw them run at our track, and dug my ntc3 back out to race 'em! They're not so fast!!

You also might try lengthening the pressure line off the tank.

fuse01

Hi, anyone using the kawahara centax clutch?

i just got it , fix it up but i rev and rev the car is not moving.. is there another type of clutch springs that i can use?

please advise

bbntc3

Sounds to me like you have the engagement spring to tight. Did you follow the instructions to the T and get the correct spacing ? Back the adjustment nut off 1/8th turn at a time until the clutch starts to engage. If after you try this and still no engagemet. take it back apart you have something else wrong.

erk1

can u help me pls.

-how many shims do i have to put on my os12tr shaft i.e. the clutch shims. it says on the manual i have to put 3 shims before i have to put the screw in.or do i have to put 4-6 shims?

-and also i bought 2 servos. futaba 9404 and ko propo 2173.which one am i suppose to use for my throttle and for my steering?

thnx ur help will be greatly appreciated . muah

Aeon Racer

erk1 - You would need 3 shims just like the manual says. I would use the the KO servo as your steering servo and the Futaba as the throttle (its faster).

fuse - For a centax, first and foremost (and most obviously) get it tuned right. Do what bbntc3 said, and if all else fails, rip it appart and rebuild it. Take your time and do everything as precisely as possible. The centax is a very precise intrument for you RC car; you can set it so your doesn't launch when revving @ 20,000RPM, but once you hit 20,100, your car launches off the line... I would highly recommend you invest in a ditigal caliper for precice adjustments of the clutch. You'll thank yourself for it.

erk1

thnx aeon racer

Boomer

Aeon - you wouldn't use the faster servo as the steering servo? I use the fast servo for steering and slower (but still decently fast) servo for throttle. It only has to move a little tiny bit compared to the steering. . .

Aeon Racer

Boomer - Looks like I didn't structure my sentence correctly. Lemme refrase:

erk1 - You would need 3 shims just like the manual says. I would use the the KO servo as your steering servo (its faster) and the Futaba as the throttle.

The KO is a .09 servo, where as the Futaba I believe is a .11 or so. Both have about the same amount of torque.

erk1

futaba 9404 .11 sec/60 deg @ 6v speed;79.0 oz/in @ 6v torque
ko 2173 0.09s / 60 deg @6v speed;111.0 oz/in @ 6v torque

Boomer

Okay, cool. Y'all just confoosed me! (it's not too difficult). . .

And since I only am using Airtronics and (if forced to) Hitec, I just don't know the other servos. . .

ilaybrk

the centex must be adj from.35-.6 ofmm. you can try to weight the shoes with longer set screws and youse the spring of a mugen centex it worked for me

Twist 2 Go

Anybody tried using solid axles frt and rear? There is another thread on this site where several people like it. Also, if you fully tighten the ball diff, do you get the same effect as the solid axle?

showtime

I have these for sale if anyone is intersted. My car was stolen before I could get the parts on.

showtime

email me at [email protected] for info. thx.