Tekin RS ESC sensored
#2073
You can order them directly from us.
#2074
my rspro is on backorder.. but then so is the chassis... 2x
so in the meantime where i can I read more on the effects of swapping the rotors
thanks!
g
#2075
For the spec classes (17.5 and 13.5) the only legal rotor is 12.5mm
So, the different rotor sizes are used mainly in mod to tune the powerband of the motor.
As a rule of thumb, a smaller rotor will turn more RPM and have less torque. the smaller rotors are normally useful in lighter cars and 4 cell where bottom end isn't that big of a deal.
With the larger rotors you'll get less RPM and more bottom end torque. The bigger rotors are normally used in heavier cars (almost always 5-6 cell) where you need extra bottom end torque. 4wd offroad and sedan onroad are a couple of areas that sometimes use a bigger rotor.
In the end, it comes down to feel for a lot of the combinations. A different rotor may or may not make the car "faster" but it will feel different.
So, the different rotor sizes are used mainly in mod to tune the powerband of the motor.
As a rule of thumb, a smaller rotor will turn more RPM and have less torque. the smaller rotors are normally useful in lighter cars and 4 cell where bottom end isn't that big of a deal.
With the larger rotors you'll get less RPM and more bottom end torque. The bigger rotors are normally used in heavier cars (almost always 5-6 cell) where you need extra bottom end torque. 4wd offroad and sedan onroad are a couple of areas that sometimes use a bigger rotor.
In the end, it comes down to feel for a lot of the combinations. A different rotor may or may not make the car "faster" but it will feel different.
#2076
For the spec classes (17.5 and 13.5) the only legal rotor is 12.5mm
So, the different rotor sizes are used mainly in mod to tune the powerband of the motor.
As a rule of thumb, a smaller rotor will turn more RPM and have less torque. the smaller rotors are normally useful in lighter cars and 4 cell where bottom end isn't that big of a deal.
With the larger rotors you'll get less RPM and more bottom end torque. The bigger rotors are normally used in heavier cars (almost always 5-6 cell) where you need extra bottom end torque. 4wd offroad and sedan onroad are a couple of areas that sometimes use a bigger rotor.
In the end, it comes down to feel for a lot of the combinations. A different rotor may or may not make the car "faster" but it will feel different.
So, the different rotor sizes are used mainly in mod to tune the powerband of the motor.
As a rule of thumb, a smaller rotor will turn more RPM and have less torque. the smaller rotors are normally useful in lighter cars and 4 cell where bottom end isn't that big of a deal.
With the larger rotors you'll get less RPM and more bottom end torque. The bigger rotors are normally used in heavier cars (almost always 5-6 cell) where you need extra bottom end torque. 4wd offroad and sedan onroad are a couple of areas that sometimes use a bigger rotor.
In the end, it comes down to feel for a lot of the combinations. A different rotor may or may not make the car "faster" but it will feel different.
#2077
Tried the boost out yesterday and the results were great. here were some settings i used for 13.5
Can timing at 12
Boost at 10
Did change pinions, went down 4 teeth.
The boost works great i think once we all play with it more we can really have a serious edge
Jason
Can timing at 12
Boost at 10
Did change pinions, went down 4 teeth.
The boost works great i think once we all play with it more we can really have a serious edge
Jason
#2078
I just bought an RS Pro for my 1/12 scale. What settings should I start with for 4 cell, 17.5 Duo motor.
Thanks,
Paul
Thanks,
Paul
#2079
Absolutely run Sensored only mode. Motor timing mid, boost 12*, current limiter off, neutral width about 10, throttle profile 3, Gear about 2.9-3.0 for starters, and work up from there. You'll probably end up around 3.25-3.3
Good luck
#2080
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone at Tekin for the great customer support. My speed controll died last week, luckily it was still under warranty, but the problem was I'm leaving today for the Grand Slam race @ 360 and I had no spare. I knew it would be a tall order to get a replacement on such short notice, but I called Ty at Tekin anyway and he shipped me one right out without even seeing my old one. I recieved it today just in time to leave for the race.
No matter how good your products are there will always be some sort problems, what matters is how you deal with the problems. Thanks again!
No matter how good your products are there will always be some sort problems, what matters is how you deal with the problems. Thanks again!
#2082
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
I'd have replied sooner, but I]ve been offline for about a week... Ice storm broke my cable connection, and they only got around to fixing it today.
#2083
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Last edited by Josh Keller; 09-27-2009 at 11:40 AM.
#2084
ok i need some help, starting to get very confused. I run a rs pro 13.5 foam sedan. current settings are: db 65, brake 90, deadband 5, tp 5, timing/boost at 75, no current limit. software version 1.80. trinity pulse timed at 5.
main question is with this boost/timing. I went back and tried it at 10, 12, 15 with all sorts of different rollouts. car went from slow and motor 120 to slow and motor at 155 to ok and motor at 185. increased the boost/timing to 75 and car was quick, wouldn't say fast and a liveable 165 but started getting soft in the last 2 min. i had a novak 13.5 in before the trinity and wasn't blown away either. my car was faster when i was running my lrp tc. not saying that the lrp is better, i think the tekin is as good if not better just need some help getting it there. also forgot to metion that i'm running it sensored only now as the above posts state that it is better for the 13.5's. sorry for the book but starting to get frustrated. thanks.
main question is with this boost/timing. I went back and tried it at 10, 12, 15 with all sorts of different rollouts. car went from slow and motor 120 to slow and motor at 155 to ok and motor at 185. increased the boost/timing to 75 and car was quick, wouldn't say fast and a liveable 165 but started getting soft in the last 2 min. i had a novak 13.5 in before the trinity and wasn't blown away either. my car was faster when i was running my lrp tc. not saying that the lrp is better, i think the tekin is as good if not better just need some help getting it there. also forgot to metion that i'm running it sensored only now as the above posts state that it is better for the 13.5's. sorry for the book but starting to get frustrated. thanks.
#2085
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
ok i need some help, starting to get very confused. I run a rs pro 13.5 foam sedan. current settings are: db 65, brake 90, deadband 5, tp 5, timing/boost at 75, no current limit. software version 1.80. trinity pulse timed at 5.
main question is with this boost/timing. I went back and tried it at 10, 12, 15 with all sorts of different rollouts. car went from slow and motor 120 to slow and motor at 155 to ok and motor at 185. increased the boost/timing to 75 and car was quick, wouldn't say fast and a liveable 165 but started getting soft in the last 2 min. i had a novak 13.5 in before the trinity and wasn't blown away either. my car was faster when i was running my lrp tc. not saying that the lrp is better, i think the tekin is as good if not better just need some help getting it there. also forgot to metion that i'm running it sensored only now as the above posts state that it is better for the 13.5's. sorry for the book but starting to get frustrated. thanks.
main question is with this boost/timing. I went back and tried it at 10, 12, 15 with all sorts of different rollouts. car went from slow and motor 120 to slow and motor at 155 to ok and motor at 185. increased the boost/timing to 75 and car was quick, wouldn't say fast and a liveable 165 but started getting soft in the last 2 min. i had a novak 13.5 in before the trinity and wasn't blown away either. my car was faster when i was running my lrp tc. not saying that the lrp is better, i think the tekin is as good if not better just need some help getting it there. also forgot to metion that i'm running it sensored only now as the above posts state that it is better for the 13.5's. sorry for the book but starting to get frustrated. thanks.
I was under the impression that on 1.80 in sensored only the the timing did not do anything. Isn't that one of the main feature of 189 that the boost/timing is available in sensored only mode?