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Old 01-13-2009, 04:42 PM
  #2071  
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Originally Posted by CREWMAN
cool thanks

also will novak motors work with this esc? reason i ask is that i already have them
Novaks work great with the tekin.
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Old 01-13-2009, 04:47 PM
  #2072  
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Originally Posted by CREWMAN
cool thanks

also will novak motors work with this esc? reason i ask is that i already have them
I already had novak motors too. lol

All my cars have tekin esc's and Novak motors. If tekin would make spare rotors available and in various sizes I might switch...hint hint
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:19 AM
  #2073  
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Originally Posted by Krio
I already had novak motors too. lol

All my cars have tekin esc's and Novak motors. If tekin would make spare rotors available and in various sizes I might switch...hint hint
We have rotors available for our sensored motors, 12.5mm, 13mm in stock, 13.5mm and 14mm should be available soon!

You can order them directly from us.
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:54 AM
  #2074  
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Originally Posted by TY@TEAMTEKIN
We have rotors available for our sensored motors, 12.5mm, 13mm in stock, 13.5mm and 14mm should be available soon!

You can order them directly from us.
what difference does it make changing the rotor?

my rspro is on backorder.. but then so is the chassis... 2x

so in the meantime where i can I read more on the effects of swapping the rotors

thanks!

g
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Old 01-14-2009, 12:53 PM
  #2075  
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Originally Posted by gortan
what difference does it make changing the rotor?
For the spec classes (17.5 and 13.5) the only legal rotor is 12.5mm

So, the different rotor sizes are used mainly in mod to tune the powerband of the motor.

As a rule of thumb, a smaller rotor will turn more RPM and have less torque. the smaller rotors are normally useful in lighter cars and 4 cell where bottom end isn't that big of a deal.

With the larger rotors you'll get less RPM and more bottom end torque. The bigger rotors are normally used in heavier cars (almost always 5-6 cell) where you need extra bottom end torque. 4wd offroad and sedan onroad are a couple of areas that sometimes use a bigger rotor.

In the end, it comes down to feel for a lot of the combinations. A different rotor may or may not make the car "faster" but it will feel different.
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Old 01-14-2009, 12:55 PM
  #2076  
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Originally Posted by Fred_B
For the spec classes (17.5 and 13.5) the only legal rotor is 12.5mm

So, the different rotor sizes are used mainly in mod to tune the powerband of the motor.

As a rule of thumb, a smaller rotor will turn more RPM and have less torque. the smaller rotors are normally useful in lighter cars and 4 cell where bottom end isn't that big of a deal.

With the larger rotors you'll get less RPM and more bottom end torque. The bigger rotors are normally used in heavier cars (almost always 5-6 cell) where you need extra bottom end torque. 4wd offroad and sedan onroad are a couple of areas that sometimes use a bigger rotor.

In the end, it comes down to feel for a lot of the combinations. A different rotor may or may not make the car "faster" but it will feel different.
thanks for that!
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Old 01-14-2009, 01:30 PM
  #2077  
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Tried the boost out yesterday and the results were great. here were some settings i used for 13.5

Can timing at 12
Boost at 10
Did change pinions, went down 4 teeth.

The boost works great i think once we all play with it more we can really have a serious edge

Jason
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Old 01-14-2009, 04:26 PM
  #2078  
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I just bought an RS Pro for my 1/12 scale. What settings should I start with for 4 cell, 17.5 Duo motor.
Thanks,
Paul
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Old 01-14-2009, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by P2
I just bought an RS Pro for my 1/12 scale. What settings should I start with for 4 cell, 17.5 Duo motor.
Thanks,
Paul
Drag brake and brake strength to suit driving style/ability and track layout. Low numbers for flowing track, and free cornering car. I run about 30 on each which isn't much, about 60 starts to be noticable.

Absolutely run Sensored only mode. Motor timing mid, boost 12*, current limiter off, neutral width about 10, throttle profile 3, Gear about 2.9-3.0 for starters, and work up from there. You'll probably end up around 3.25-3.3

Good luck
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Old 01-15-2009, 12:10 PM
  #2080  
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Just wanted to say thanks to everyone at Tekin for the great customer support. My speed controll died last week, luckily it was still under warranty, but the problem was I'm leaving today for the Grand Slam race @ 360 and I had no spare. I knew it would be a tall order to get a replacement on such short notice, but I called Ty at Tekin anyway and he shipped me one right out without even seeing my old one. I recieved it today just in time to leave for the race.

No matter how good your products are there will always be some sort problems, what matters is how you deal with the problems. Thanks again!
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Old 01-15-2009, 12:13 PM
  #2081  
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Well said Showtime... and the #1 reason I run a Tekin... they answer their phone.
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Old 01-15-2009, 04:24 PM
  #2082  
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Originally Posted by yodace
What are some good setting for a 13.5? Anyone else having problems with a delay on power? noticed it on the straight away.
I only noticed a delay one time, I was running too much timing and gear on a 17.5 in a 4 cell 1/12 car. The delay only happened at the starting tone, and only that one time. Next race day I backed off the gear and timing a bit and the delay was gone.

I'd have replied sooner, but I]ve been offline for about a week... Ice storm broke my cable connection, and they only got around to fixing it today.
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Old 01-15-2009, 07:24 PM
  #2083  
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.

Last edited by Josh Keller; 09-27-2009 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 01-15-2009, 07:51 PM
  #2084  
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ok i need some help, starting to get very confused. I run a rs pro 13.5 foam sedan. current settings are: db 65, brake 90, deadband 5, tp 5, timing/boost at 75, no current limit. software version 1.80. trinity pulse timed at 5.

main question is with this boost/timing. I went back and tried it at 10, 12, 15 with all sorts of different rollouts. car went from slow and motor 120 to slow and motor at 155 to ok and motor at 185. increased the boost/timing to 75 and car was quick, wouldn't say fast and a liveable 165 but started getting soft in the last 2 min. i had a novak 13.5 in before the trinity and wasn't blown away either. my car was faster when i was running my lrp tc. not saying that the lrp is better, i think the tekin is as good if not better just need some help getting it there. also forgot to metion that i'm running it sensored only now as the above posts state that it is better for the 13.5's. sorry for the book but starting to get frustrated. thanks.
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Old 01-15-2009, 08:13 PM
  #2085  
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Originally Posted by cujo
ok i need some help, starting to get very confused. I run a rs pro 13.5 foam sedan. current settings are: db 65, brake 90, deadband 5, tp 5, timing/boost at 75, no current limit. software version 1.80. trinity pulse timed at 5.

main question is with this boost/timing. I went back and tried it at 10, 12, 15 with all sorts of different rollouts. car went from slow and motor 120 to slow and motor at 155 to ok and motor at 185. increased the boost/timing to 75 and car was quick, wouldn't say fast and a liveable 165 but started getting soft in the last 2 min. i had a novak 13.5 in before the trinity and wasn't blown away either. my car was faster when i was running my lrp tc. not saying that the lrp is better, i think the tekin is as good if not better just need some help getting it there. also forgot to metion that i'm running it sensored only now as the above posts state that it is better for the 13.5's. sorry for the book but starting to get frustrated. thanks.

I was under the impression that on 1.80 in sensored only the the timing did not do anything. Isn't that one of the main feature of 189 that the boost/timing is available in sensored only mode?
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