Edgar Millenium

Hello Pete:

First , welcome to 1/12.

Second, that is NOT a slipper clutch, that is a ball diff. You should tight it up until you can not move either tire while holding at the same time one tire and the spur. Instead of going from full tight to loose, go from loose until you tight it correctly. Do it in small increments, until you can hardly move or slip.

Pete720

iTrader: (33)

Sheesh, yeah I meant ball diff. I am a dummy. I still have Traxxas Slash on the brain from the weekend. That has the slipper haha. Thank you for the tip. It was slipping like crazy. My buddy obviously never set it up but that is probably good for me since the balls and rings don't feel pitted from extensive sitting pressure. Any advice for the rest of the car for a basic asphalt setup to start with?

Edgar Millenium

does you track have good traction? Or is dusty low traction?

Crashby

Just like Edgar said, grab the left rear wheel in your left hand and the right rear wheel in your right hand. Take you right thumb and while holding the tires to prevent them from turning, try and move the spur gear. The goal is to get the diff spinning as loose and free as possible while not being able to move that spur gear with your thumb. Now for asphalt, you may want to loosen the diff just a little to help prevent breaking the rear tires loose as asphalt, most of the time, will not have the same grip as carpet.

As for settings and not knowing how much grip your asphalt track has, I would start off with the following set up. This would be for a very low bite, asphalt track:

• soft T bar (1.75),
• the softest center spring on the center shock,
• 20 weight oil in both shocks,
• medium to hard front springs,
• wide front track and
• the narrowest rear track you can get.
• Use the 5 degree reactive caster blocks (the 0 degree blocks smooth out the car more but can be difficult to mount some of these new bodies.)
• Make sure the body fits loose on the body posts. This frees up the chassis.
• I like the long upper arm position on the front end as it reduces camber gain
• Depending on how bumpy your track is, start off with about 4mm ride height in the rear and 3.5mm in the front. More if the track is extremely bumpy.
• Pink rears
• Purple fronts (as the rear bite comes up or if car pushes, use magenta fronts or double pink fronts)
• True the rear tires down to about 48 or 46mm and the fronts with a 2mm split from the rears.
• 1mm negative camber
• Lots of caster
• .5mm rear pod droop.
• Batteries in the forward position

If it pushes then you can narrow the front track, put softer front springs or harder center, shock spring, and widen the rear track. If the car pushes, then it's easy to get more steering but not always easy to get rear grip. Make sure the car is not tweaked and go have some fun. The S120 is a very good car.

Pete720

iTrader: (33)

Thank you for the help thus far guys. I will be racing on pretty clean asphalt and we just sealed the track with Tarconite so I am expecting much higher traction.

Pete720

iTrader: (33)

Also what are good bodies for this car or what one fit well? I have a Parma body unpainted my buddy gave me with he that he already had trimmed out and it fits well but I am unsure what body it is, it looks like a EXP Speed. Than I bought a second Parma body my LHS had, it is the Zytec body but it does not fit well at all. The rear body posts are not even long enough to support it.

John_S

I run 3mm of shims under my rear body posts and the parma zytec fits fine then

CarbonJoe

I've had good luck with the Parma Speed HD body. It fits well, but you have to make sure that the solder tabs on your batteries are canted inward at a 45 degree angle and as low as you can get them (if you use an "L" shaped tab to solder the battery wires to). This prevents them from hitting the body.

Pete720

iTrader: (33)

Am I trying to use the wrong wheels or did I get a kit with axles too short? I cannot tighten the wheel nuts down properly without pinching the bearing. I even purchased the thinner wheel nuts and still get same result.

CarbonJoe

The stock axles work great with Jacos and the new Parma Blackhawks, as well as the kit wheel nuts. Sounds like you are overtightening the wheel nuts. I tighten them until the wheels don't spin very long (around 1-2 seconds when you flick the wheel with your finger) then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The wheels will then spin very freely. The ends of the axles will not stick out of the wheel nut.

Pete720

iTrader: (33)

Jacos is what I have. Do you find issue with the wheels nuts backing off since the threads cannot reach the locking material in the wheel nut or will a drop of locktite solve any backing off issues?

CarbonJoe

No problems with the wheel nuts backing off. Didn't need to use loctite either.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

Pete, which Jacos are you using? The new Prism rims, or the older Jacos from a few years ago? If you're using the older ones, you need to use un-flanged bearings in them or you won't be able to get the nuts on properly.

Pete720

iTrader: (33)

I am not sure. Here is what I bought:

Trips

iTrader: (16)

Pete,

Okay, there's your problem right there... those are the older style Jaco rims. THere's nothing wrong with them, but if you look at the center hole, you'll see some ridges inside there. Those rims are meant to be used with un-flanged ball bearings. The ridges in the hole are there to keep the unflanged bearings in place. You are probably using flanged bearings, which won't sit deep enough in those rims, and that's why you cant get the nuts on the axles properly.

You can solve the problem by using unflanged bearings in those rims, or you can buy some rims that are made for flanged bearings.

If you can't easily find some unflanged bearings (the size you want is 1/8" x 5/16") PM me your address, I have a set I can mail to you. All the rims I have now use flanged bearings, so I'll not be likely to ever use these unflanged ones.