R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-07-2009, 01:17 PM   #721
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 364
Default

Hello Pete:

First , welcome to 1/12.

Second, that is NOT a slipper clutch, that is a ball diff. You should tight it up until you can not move either tire while holding at the same time one tire and the spur. Instead of going from full tight to loose, go from loose until you tight it correctly. Do it in small increments, until you can hardly move or slip.
Edgar Millenium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2009, 01:23 PM   #722
Tech Addict
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern DE
Posts: 519
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Sheesh, yeah I meant ball diff. I am a dummy. I still have Traxxas Slash on the brain from the weekend. That has the slipper haha. Thank you for the tip. It was slipping like crazy. My buddy obviously never set it up but that is probably good for me since the balls and rings don't feel pitted from extensive sitting pressure. Any advice for the rest of the car for a basic asphalt setup to start with?
Pete720 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2009, 01:53 PM   #723
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 364
Default

does you track have good traction? Or is dusty low traction?
Edgar Millenium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2009, 02:56 PM   #724
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 815
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete720 View Post
Sheesh, yeah I meant ball diff. I am a dummy. I still have Traxxas Slash on the brain from the weekend. That has the slipper haha. Thank you for the tip. It was slipping like crazy. My buddy obviously never set it up but that is probably good for me since the balls and rings don't feel pitted from extensive sitting pressure. Any advice for the rest of the car for a basic asphalt setup to start with?
Just like Edgar said, grab the left rear wheel in your left hand and the right rear wheel in your right hand. Take you right thumb and while holding the tires to prevent them from turning, try and move the spur gear. The goal is to get the diff spinning as loose and free as possible while not being able to move that spur gear with your thumb. Now for asphalt, you may want to loosen the diff just a little to help prevent breaking the rear tires loose as asphalt, most of the time, will not have the same grip as carpet.

As for settings and not knowing how much grip your asphalt track has, I would start off with the following set up. This would be for a very low bite, asphalt track:

soft T bar (1.75),
the softest center spring on the center shock,
20 weight oil in both shocks,
medium to hard front springs,
wide front track and
the narrowest rear track you can get.
Use the 5 degree reactive caster blocks (the 0 degree blocks smooth out the car more but can be difficult to mount some of these new bodies.)
Make sure the body fits loose on the body posts. This frees up the chassis.
I like the long upper arm position on the front end as it reduces camber gain
Depending on how bumpy your track is, start off with about 4mm ride height in the rear and 3.5mm in the front. More if the track is extremely bumpy.
Pink rears
Purple fronts (as the rear bite comes up or if car pushes, use magenta fronts or double pink fronts)
True the rear tires down to about 48 or 46mm and the fronts with a 2mm split from the rears.
1mm negative camber
Lots of caster
.5mm rear pod droop.
Batteries in the forward position

If it pushes then you can narrow the front track, put softer front springs or harder center, shock spring, and widen the rear track. If the car pushes, then it's easy to get more steering but not always easy to get rear grip. Make sure the car is not tweaked and go have some fun. The S120 is a very good car.
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2009, 08:40 PM   #725
Tech Addict
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern DE
Posts: 519
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Thank you for the help thus far guys. I will be racing on pretty clean asphalt and we just sealed the track with Tarconite so I am expecting much higher traction.
Pete720 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2009, 08:00 AM   #726
Tech Addict
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern DE
Posts: 519
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Also what are good bodies for this car or what one fit well? I have a Parma body unpainted my buddy gave me with he that he already had trimmed out and it fits well but I am unsure what body it is, it looks like a EXP Speed. Than I bought a second Parma body my LHS had, it is the Zytec body but it does not fit well at all. The rear body posts are not even long enough to support it.
Pete720 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2009, 08:07 AM   #727
Tech Addict
 
John_S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Scotland
Posts: 724
Default

I run 3mm of shims under my rear body posts and the parma zytec fits fine then
John_S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2009, 08:23 AM   #728
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,661
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete720 View Post
Also what are good bodies for this car or what one fit well? I have a Parma body unpainted my buddy gave me with he that he already had trimmed out and it fits well but I am unsure what body it is, it looks like a EXP Speed. Than I bought a second Parma body my LHS had, it is the Zytec body but it does not fit well at all. The rear body posts are not even long enough to support it.
I've had good luck with the Parma Speed HD body. It fits well, but you have to make sure that the solder tabs on your batteries are canted inward at a 45 degree angle and as low as you can get them (if you use an "L" shaped tab to solder the battery wires to). This prevents them from hitting the body.
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 8 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 07:04 PM   #729
Tech Addict
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern DE
Posts: 519
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Am I trying to use the wrong wheels or did I get a kit with axles too short? I cannot tighten the wheel nuts down properly without pinching the bearing. I even purchased the thinner wheel nuts and still get same result.
Pete720 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 07:52 PM   #730
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,661
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete720 View Post
Am I trying to use the wrong wheels or did I get a kit with axles too short? I cannot tighten the wheel nuts down properly without pinching the bearing. I even purchased the thinner wheel nuts and still get same result.
The stock axles work great with Jacos and the new Parma Blackhawks, as well as the kit wheel nuts. Sounds like you are overtightening the wheel nuts. I tighten them until the wheels don't spin very long (around 1-2 seconds when you flick the wheel with your finger) then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The wheels will then spin very freely. The ends of the axles will not stick out of the wheel nut.
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 8 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 09:22 PM   #731
Tech Addict
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern DE
Posts: 519
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Jacos is what I have. Do you find issue with the wheels nuts backing off since the threads cannot reach the locking material in the wheel nut or will a drop of locktite solve any backing off issues?
Pete720 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 09:30 PM   #732
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,661
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete720 View Post
Jacos is what I have. Do you find issue with the wheels nuts backing off since the threads cannot reach the locking material in the wheel nut or will a drop of locktite solve any backing off issues?
No problems with the wheel nuts backing off. Didn't need to use loctite either.
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 8 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 10:13 PM   #733
Tech Elite
 
Trips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: 360 Speedway
Posts: 2,251
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete720 View Post
Jacos is what I have. Do you find issue with the wheels nuts backing off since the threads cannot reach the locking material in the wheel nut or will a drop of locktite solve any backing off issues?
Pete, which Jacos are you using? The new Prism rims, or the older Jacos from a few years ago? If you're using the older ones, you need to use un-flanged bearings in them or you won't be able to get the nuts on properly.
__________________
MARSHAL!!
Trips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 10:55 PM   #734
Tech Addict
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern DE
Posts: 519
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

I am not sure. Here is what I bought:

Pete720 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2009, 12:25 AM   #735
Tech Elite
 
Trips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: 360 Speedway
Posts: 2,251
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Pete,

Okay, there's your problem right there... those are the older style Jaco rims. THere's nothing wrong with them, but if you look at the center hole, you'll see some ridges inside there. Those rims are meant to be used with un-flanged ball bearings. The ridges in the hole are there to keep the unflanged bearings in place. You are probably using flanged bearings, which won't sit deep enough in those rims, and that's why you cant get the nuts on the axles properly.

You can solve the problem by using unflanged bearings in those rims, or you can buy some rims that are made for flanged bearings.

If you can't easily find some unflanged bearings (the size you want is 1/8" x 5/16") PM me your address, I have a set I can mail to you. All the rims I have now use flanged bearings, so I'll not be likely to ever use these unflanged ones.
__________________
MARSHAL!!
Trips is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Serpent 705 J_Longbrake Nitro On-Road 4252 02-23-2015 12:34 AM
Serpent 710 Ron C. Nitro On-Road 23347 03-16-2010 02:47 PM
WTB: NIB Serpent 710 aN4rK1 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 06-16-2006 09:23 PM
Trade in Your Old Serpent 710 Parts for New Serpent 710 Parts fast_it710 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 09-17-2004 12:27 AM
Serpent Impulse w/MT-12 and Serpent Starter box - cheap Solara R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 03-07-2003 03:01 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:13 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net