288LikesTamiya mini cooper
04-27-2009, 03:01 AM
#8956
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: wonderfull place called, MALAYSIA.
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 23 (96%+)
04-27-2009, 03:04 AM
#8957
awesome! i hope to see that soon racing around melbourne tracks? love the colourz and the drips and stuff
04-27-2009, 03:09 AM
#8958
Love the paint but I noticed no body posts. Will this shell actually fit on an M03? it looks really low at the rear
04-27-2009, 05:10 AM
#8959
When i was chatting to TFG earlier today - the question surrounding body posts, was one they were still working on!
04-27-2009, 07:42 AM
#8961
Don’t know who else is running a RWD conversion but I need some help here:
Car is built as per instruction at rc-mini.net…..thanks guys! Car actually runs pretty well and is quite competitive (mid – A main qualifying) against the fast guys at our local club, which is a medium grip carpet track. However, it does run into a few problems.
1. Motor temperature (we run silver cans only) appears to be quite higher after a run than my FWD to the point that it kind of stinks. Temp on the can 90F, in the hold 150F after a 5 minute run. The motor being used was originally run in a FWD. Should I get a new motor and break it in only in reverse?
2. The car hops like crazy. I originally used friction dampers and that was even worse. Now using oil shocks, it’s a lot better but still ‘skips’ along on the track coming out from a turn which loses some speed. Car weights in at 1270 grams, ride height 5 front / 3 rear, front blue / rear red springs, adjustable camber links (from the M03R) in the rear to even out tire wear. I’m using 3 racing tires front and rear. I nifetech the rears full and inside front 1/3. My other tire options at the club are Type A slicks, S-Grips, M-grips or the ones that come with the kit.
3. Any adjustable camber links for the front to even out tire wear?
4. Because the frame that use to house the servo in its FWD from is now removed, can I basically use any body out there? I’m set up with the 225 mid length.
5. Speed. I feel that the car comes out of the corner pretty quickly (except the hopping takes some speed away and have to use a way different driving style than the FWD) but the other cars (FWD or RWD) seem to pull away mid-straight away and hence comes into the following corner at a faster speed than I do. I’m using the standard 20-tooth pinion. Should I drill an extra hole and test a 21-tooth pinion?
6. Considering putting some lead weight only the car to test. Where should I put it? Currently using orion 3200 lipos with 84 grams lead weight underneath the battery only.
Aside from blaming my driving skills (I’ve actually never drove a RWD mini before the conversion), a $5 servo, a cheap ESC, and a super duct taped Honda civic body, any suggestions out there would be appreciated.
Ivan
Car is built as per instruction at rc-mini.net…..thanks guys! Car actually runs pretty well and is quite competitive (mid – A main qualifying) against the fast guys at our local club, which is a medium grip carpet track. However, it does run into a few problems.
1. Motor temperature (we run silver cans only) appears to be quite higher after a run than my FWD to the point that it kind of stinks. Temp on the can 90F, in the hold 150F after a 5 minute run. The motor being used was originally run in a FWD. Should I get a new motor and break it in only in reverse?
2. The car hops like crazy. I originally used friction dampers and that was even worse. Now using oil shocks, it’s a lot better but still ‘skips’ along on the track coming out from a turn which loses some speed. Car weights in at 1270 grams, ride height 5 front / 3 rear, front blue / rear red springs, adjustable camber links (from the M03R) in the rear to even out tire wear. I’m using 3 racing tires front and rear. I nifetech the rears full and inside front 1/3. My other tire options at the club are Type A slicks, S-Grips, M-grips or the ones that come with the kit.
3. Any adjustable camber links for the front to even out tire wear?
4. Because the frame that use to house the servo in its FWD from is now removed, can I basically use any body out there? I’m set up with the 225 mid length.
5. Speed. I feel that the car comes out of the corner pretty quickly (except the hopping takes some speed away and have to use a way different driving style than the FWD) but the other cars (FWD or RWD) seem to pull away mid-straight away and hence comes into the following corner at a faster speed than I do. I’m using the standard 20-tooth pinion. Should I drill an extra hole and test a 21-tooth pinion?
6. Considering putting some lead weight only the car to test. Where should I put it? Currently using orion 3200 lipos with 84 grams lead weight underneath the battery only.
Aside from blaming my driving skills (I’ve actually never drove a RWD mini before the conversion), a $5 servo, a cheap ESC, and a super duct taped Honda civic body, any suggestions out there would be appreciated.
Ivan
04-27-2009, 10:29 AM
#8962
did they ever make diffrent caster degree c-hubs for the m03??
also how many different type of c-hubs were made? two differnt huh? one larger and one smaller (the ones made for the older ones and the same ones made for the m03r) I have two type.... the ones that came in the reguler m03 are bigger... and the ones that come in the m03r are smaller. I couldn't use the spindles from the mo3r on the reguler m03 c-hubs....
also how many different type of c-hubs were made? two differnt huh? one larger and one smaller (the ones made for the older ones and the same ones made for the m03r) I have two type.... the ones that came in the reguler m03 are bigger... and the ones that come in the m03r are smaller. I couldn't use the spindles from the mo3r on the reguler m03 c-hubs....
04-27-2009, 11:27 AM
#8963
Tech Rookie
M to L conversion
Hi,
This is actually my first post at rctech.net and I have a question. My son and I both have a Suzuki Swift (the M size chassis) but the body shell from the swift from my son is damaged beyond repair. We decided to get the Mini Cooper body shell but then I found out that it's made for the L version.
By checking this thread and googling around, I found that I need 0005798 - LWB extension 'D' parts for M03L but I wonder, do I also need new body posts? The ones for the Swift have been cut off for the Swift body, so I think it's safer to order new ones.
Can somebody help me with the part number please? It would also help to have the Tamiya part number for the manual, I found out where I can download the Tamiya manuals but they are only listed by part number and I don't want to risk downloading all before finding the right one for the Mini Cooper!
By the way, we are thinking of painting the body as a open convertible, leaving the roof, side windows and rear windows blank. To make it more realistic, I was thinking of making some sort of insert, representing the roll bars and seats. Has this already been tried and are there pictures from such a setup?
Thanks in advance and kind regards,
Cinq
This is actually my first post at rctech.net and I have a question. My son and I both have a Suzuki Swift (the M size chassis) but the body shell from the swift from my son is damaged beyond repair. We decided to get the Mini Cooper body shell but then I found out that it's made for the L version.
By checking this thread and googling around, I found that I need 0005798 - LWB extension 'D' parts for M03L but I wonder, do I also need new body posts? The ones for the Swift have been cut off for the Swift body, so I think it's safer to order new ones.
Can somebody help me with the part number please? It would also help to have the Tamiya part number for the manual, I found out where I can download the Tamiya manuals but they are only listed by part number and I don't want to risk downloading all before finding the right one for the Mini Cooper!
By the way, we are thinking of painting the body as a open convertible, leaving the roof, side windows and rear windows blank. To make it more realistic, I was thinking of making some sort of insert, representing the roll bars and seats. Has this already been tried and are there pictures from such a setup?
Thanks in advance and kind regards,
Cinq
04-27-2009, 11:58 AM
#8964
In short, no.
Body posts: You can probably use the posts you have. If not, get new ones. Just see how the body fits. The body posts come bundled with the suspension uprights for the M-03 (old version). PN 50793.
The manual can be found here.
I've never seen an interior inserted into an M chassis, but you could be the first. Go for it!
Jim
The manual can be found here.
I've never seen an interior inserted into an M chassis, but you could be the first. Go for it!
Jim
04-27-2009, 12:39 PM
#8965
Tech Rookie
Body posts: You can probably use the posts you have. If not, get new ones. Just see how the body fits. The body posts come bundled with the suspension uprights for the M-03 (old version). PN 50793.
I've never seen an interior inserted into an M chassis, but you could be the first. Go for it!
I've never seen an interior inserted into an M chassis, but you could be the first. Go for it!
I checked it with the part number on the manual of the Suzuki Swift and that worked like a charm. Chances are, the manual for the Mini Cooper isn't listed here, just like on the page you provided.
As for the convertible idea: I will keep you all posted and post pictures as soon as possible (which will take some time though).
Kind regards,
Cinq
04-27-2009, 01:10 PM
#8966
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
You cant dump it as low as in the picture, the front of the body narrows a bit and the wheels stick out 2-3mm so you need to raise it up to clear.
Body Posts - Use the standard M03 rear posts at the front, and you need TL01 body posts (50855) at the rear.
Oh and you can't mount anything on the upper chassis deck either.
The shell comes with extensions to increase the height of the pickup bed sides but I left them off because there's no effective way of attaching them.
04-27-2009, 01:15 PM
#8967
hi all quick question i'm new to mini racing and was wondering, has anyone put diff oils in there diffs insted of grease and if so what weights ave you been useing and what results have you been getting with it?
Cheers Ginge
Cheers Ginge
Last edited by G-mini; 04-27-2009 at 11:27 PM.
04-27-2009, 11:58 PM
#8969
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Don't bother, it all just leaks out and makes a HUGE mess.....
04-28-2009, 12:30 AM
#8970
i am looking at making one full of truck 5th wheel grease and sealing it shut !!!
think it will work
think it will work