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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 04-22-2009, 03:15 PM
  #8926  
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The Tamiya battery (or it's internals) are made by A123. It is a 2 cell version, as A123 cells put out 3.3v when charged.

The A123 cells are about the same diameter as a sub C, but are a bit longer.

Jim
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Old 04-22-2009, 05:51 PM
  #8927  
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Any specific o-rings that you're using?

Originally Posted by robus
Hey guys,

Great thread, I read most of it when I first got M03 Cooper few months ago.
Our racing season indoors is over. I get to race it now only sporadically.
I tried ideas I found in this thread about limiting diffs unloading. I come up with one which worked for me for over a month thats at least 5 race days.
Instead off using shims on outside of large bevel gears I sandwiched tiny o-ring in between shims. Shims are only 0.2 mm thick and o-ring is 0.4 mm. Total of 4 shims and 2 o-rings plus silicone grease. Diff works smooth, but it has a little drag to it. When you spin one wheel by hand, you will spin motor.

Rob
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:53 PM
  #8928  
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guys,

i understand many of us are using hb 13t bl systems or any brush or brushless esc.

lets share our tidiest esc (wires, position) photo on a m chasis? i believe many have seen tony youtube video on the A123 battery with tamiya tble-01 bl system...can we do better than them????

i will upload mine tonight, i will try to fit our hb esc into the rear chasis...finger cross.....

some inspiring shots to keep the mind working..................
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-mo3.jpg  

Last edited by edwintklee; 04-22-2009 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 04-22-2009, 09:54 PM
  #8929  
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My car is messy, but it's on purpose. I like to keep all wires accessible for those manic in between heat teardowns. All electronic components are held in place with industrial grade velcro. I can have the electrical stuff (servo, speedy, receiver, transponder and motor) out in under a minute, and the rest of the car torn down in about 5 minutes.

Most fasteners are hex-head machine screws, including chassis, motor, suspension, etc.

What can I say? I'm crashy.

Jim

Last edited by monkeyracing; 08-12-2017 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:17 PM
  #8930  
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I don't have a mini, but my wiring jobs follow the same philosophy. Everything has to be easily accesible and easy to take off the car. I am not that crashy (actually I can't remember ever destroying electronics) but if something needs to be serviced in a hurry I don't want to have to take out bits I don't need to.
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ruf
I doubt anything that would only fit in the Stampeded would fit in the M03. The M03 is supertight in the battery compartment. Keep in mind that A123 is a pretty huge battery manufacturer, so I'm thinking the battery you are talking about is different altogether. Maybe a 3s lipo? Also the lithium iron phosphate chemistry was just recently announced, so I'd be surprised if it was around earlier. Honestly, I'm incredibly surprised that this is out so soon in the R/C market! MIT and A123 just went public on this technology only 1 month ago!
The ones I read were these...

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=222362

I think A123 were already making them for other electric devices and decided they might fit in some RC cars. Many LiPo chargers made since 2006 have the option to charge these cells.

They are the superior 'fun' batteries in many ways, but they do lose out in terms of voltage and capacity, so even if they are allowed in races, they wouldn't be competitive.

I sometimes read about them in drag races (where capacity isn't so important, number of cells is not limited, and anything goes for motors) and of course basher vehicles.

Robust, safe but low energy density, like the Ni-Cads of the lithium battery era.
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:30 AM
  #8932  
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The main attraction over other battery types is the 15 minute charge time & supersafe chemistry though the latter is not much of an issue anymore (kind of). I suppose it can be good for crawling where speed is not a factor and in MTs where there is a lot of chassis space to have a high number of cells but in racing applications I rather be driving the car with old fashioned lipos and have the competition use these.
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Old 04-23-2009, 02:01 AM
  #8933  
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Just in case you're concerned about the fit, here are some pics courtesy of Tamiya with the LF2200 pack fitted in various kits.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/notice...tery/index.htm
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Old 04-23-2009, 04:10 AM
  #8934  
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Need some new tires for your mini but can't remember the part number? Not even sure what's available? Or just too damn lazy to google it yourself?



Finally we've got somewhere to go to find out

Go HERE to find our all-new tyre reference page. All the tires you know and love, and some you've probably never heard of as well.
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Old 04-23-2009, 04:32 AM
  #8935  
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thats great telling us what is available in tires now all i need to know which ones are good for what surface i know 3 racing tires are like drift tires on ashphelt
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Old 04-23-2009, 04:50 AM
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Rozzt .. that is the big secret

I have most of those tyres in stock and it still is not easy getting the right setup
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Old 04-23-2009, 07:19 AM
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I've gotten hold of a box-standard M01 to go along with my M03, and I'm planning on sticking an M-length box to convert it into M02M length, to suit the HPI Datsun 510 body (RWD of course... ).

I think its been built right, but I'm not sure about the L-springs that control side to side movement. Its currently got a silver and a black one on each end of the car. Its been a looooooong time since I had one of these chassis (an M02L Beetle in 1999) but is that right? Aren't the colours meant to be the same colour at the same end?

Heres what I'm talking about:

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Old 04-23-2009, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by stocker
Any specific o-rings that you're using?
I think they came with shock caps for one of the 1/18 scale cars few years ago.
I had 4 of them and still have 2.
I ran my car again yesterday, so now I am sure I have 8 race days on this diff.
I will take it apart before the next season just to see whats the damage.
Rob
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:31 AM
  #8939  
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I found that when I put two shims in my diff it got very notchy as soon as I started to get a little teeny bit of lock on it. Do you suspect that the o-rings alleviate this?

Jim
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by academygaz
I've gotten hold of a box-standard M01 to go along with my M03, and I'm planning on sticking an M-length box to convert it into M02M length, to suit the HPI Datsun 510 body (RWD of course... ).

I think its been built right, but I'm not sure about the L-springs that control side to side movement. Its currently got a silver and a black one on each end of the car. Its been a looooooong time since I had one of these chassis (an M02L Beetle in 1999) but is that right? Aren't the colours meant to be the same colour at the same end?

Heres what I'm talking about:

The colors are for either left or right. U can try them as they wont fit if installed on the wrong side.

Clarence
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