86LikesHpi Pro 4
04-22-2004, 08:56 AM
#3841
Erik-here it is:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Now to be more specific-I ran the car with arms flat on the chassis and 4 degree caster blocks and stock ackermann. Shocks out two holes in front and all the way out in rear. The track was 60'x 30 or so- a little bullring of a track.
The base set-up i ran was with long rear camber link and short front.
Car was not too bad, but was overrotating on exit. I took down the dual rate quite bit to smooth out the car and it did improve. Next I tried shortening the rear link on the hub only. I went back out and car stayed flatter in the corners in the back and this lack of roll made the car feel more consistent.
It had a lot of ow speed cornering and high speed as well. Its ability to transition right and left and go through 180's was unreal. I felt like i could take 180's at a very high rate of speed. I also stood the front shock up one hole and that seemed to tame the squaring up on exit problem.
As this set-up was rather aggressive-perfect for this little track-I wanted to simulate the feel, but make it easier to drive on BIG tracks and went with a long front camber link. Very much to my suprise I picked up a HUGE mid corner push that carried the push to the exit. To get it to turn on exit I had to hold the steering at full lock beyond the apex and it was both sloppy to drive like that and even harder to be consistent.
I called RB Love about this push and he suggested putting pro-squat or ant-squat in the rear. I used pro-squat and car now carried the line from start to end, wasnt aggressive at all and looked ot be going as fast on exit as mid-corner. This was too much to believe so i took the pro-squat out and car pushed like mad again.
Very good day to learn about the Pro4.
My conclusions are if your running on a tight carpet high bite track, run short front and rear camber links. Car will turn on a dime and go left right like a whip.
If your running on a larger track, try a long front camber link, but put the pro-squat in the back.
Can anyoneback-this up or refute it?
Thanks,
Ray
Now to be more specific-I ran the car with arms flat on the chassis and 4 degree caster blocks and stock ackermann. Shocks out two holes in front and all the way out in rear. The track was 60'x 30 or so- a little bullring of a track.
The base set-up i ran was with long rear camber link and short front.
Car was not too bad, but was overrotating on exit. I took down the dual rate quite bit to smooth out the car and it did improve. Next I tried shortening the rear link on the hub only. I went back out and car stayed flatter in the corners in the back and this lack of roll made the car feel more consistent.
It had a lot of ow speed cornering and high speed as well. Its ability to transition right and left and go through 180's was unreal. I felt like i could take 180's at a very high rate of speed. I also stood the front shock up one hole and that seemed to tame the squaring up on exit problem.
As this set-up was rather aggressive-perfect for this little track-I wanted to simulate the feel, but make it easier to drive on BIG tracks and went with a long front camber link. Very much to my suprise I picked up a HUGE mid corner push that carried the push to the exit. To get it to turn on exit I had to hold the steering at full lock beyond the apex and it was both sloppy to drive like that and even harder to be consistent.
I called RB Love about this push and he suggested putting pro-squat or ant-squat in the rear. I used pro-squat and car now carried the line from start to end, wasnt aggressive at all and looked ot be going as fast on exit as mid-corner. This was too much to believe so i took the pro-squat out and car pushed like mad again.
Very good day to learn about the Pro4.
My conclusions are if your running on a tight carpet high bite track, run short front and rear camber links. Car will turn on a dime and go left right like a whip.
If your running on a larger track, try a long front camber link, but put the pro-squat in the back.
Can anyoneback-this up or refute it?
Thanks,
Ray
04-22-2004, 09:01 AM
#3843
Originally posted by rayhuang
Erik-
Did you read my post a few pages back about the carpet foam test day?
I'd like your input on the pro-squat. Also-on roll centers, whats the "feel" of lowering and raising the inner ballstuds as compared to lowering and raising the bottom hingepins. Is it opposite effect?
Thanks,
Ray
Erik-
Did you read my post a few pages back about the carpet foam test day?
I'd like your input on the pro-squat. Also-on roll centers, whats the "feel" of lowering and raising the inner ballstuds as compared to lowering and raising the bottom hingepins. Is it opposite effect?
Thanks,
Ray
04-22-2004, 09:04 AM
#3844
Originally posted by Erik Shauver
cartmen34: Unless you plan on driving upside down a lot without a body, I'm not sure what this check will verify or show about your car
.
cartmen34: Unless you plan on driving upside down a lot without a body, I'm not sure what this check will verify or show about your car
. So I grabbed the car and gave it a quick twist to try and straighten it until all four corners of towers touched. Then I put it back on the scales and the car was MUCH closer to balanced than it was before.
It seems to me to be a pretty logical, albeit slightly unprecise way to check for chassis tweak. At least it'll give you a quick, ballpark idea on your car's chassis tweak situation without having to break out the scales and setup wheels.
04-22-2004, 10:38 AM
#3848
I have read about people turning their top decks upside down (countersunk holes on the bottom) to help with the ill effects of tweak and I wanted to know how this works...or does it work? And where do you put the countersunk washers..on the top to spread the load or on the bottom to ensure a proper fit?
Thanks, Mike
Thanks, Mike
04-22-2004, 10:43 AM
#3849
Originally posted by RC Driver Gary
Under the inspection of the Crew Cheif
Under the inspection of the Crew Cheif
you're such a dad dude!
04-22-2004, 10:46 AM
#3850
Originally posted by Michal101
I have read about people turning their top decks upside down (countersunk holes on the bottom) to help with the ill effects of tweak and I wanted to know how this works...or does it work? And where do you put the countersunk washers..on the top to spread the load or on the bottom to ensure a proper fit?
Thanks, Mike
I have read about people turning their top decks upside down (countersunk holes on the bottom) to help with the ill effects of tweak and I wanted to know how this works...or does it work? And where do you put the countersunk washers..on the top to spread the load or on the bottom to ensure a proper fit?
Thanks, Mike
i've got the alloy camber link supports on the pro4 and haven't had any tweak issues. i race on asphalt not carpet. if you race on carpet you might have more G's of force going through the chassis. if ur a carpet muncher
disregard what i said.
04-22-2004, 10:52 AM
#3851
Tech Elite
Originally posted by Michal101
I have read about people turning their top decks upside down (countersunk holes on the bottom) to help with the ill effects of tweak and I wanted to know how this works...or does it work? And where do you put the countersunk washers..on the top to spread the load or on the bottom to ensure a proper fit?
Thanks, Mike
I have read about people turning their top decks upside down (countersunk holes on the bottom) to help with the ill effects of tweak and I wanted to know how this works...or does it work? And where do you put the countersunk washers..on the top to spread the load or on the bottom to ensure a proper fit?
Thanks, Mike
04-22-2004, 10:55 AM
#3852
Hey Pops, did u manage to un-tweak ur car?
04-22-2004, 12:16 PM
#3854
Originally posted by RC Driver Gary
New shell for the Pro 4. I figured I'd give the 6 a try.
New shell for the Pro 4. I figured I'd give the 6 a try.
i shouldnt talk tho... my car is one color with no stickers! hahaha
how do u like the pro4?
04-22-2004, 12:21 PM
#3855
Here's a quick one.... PRO 4 Editable PDF
Someone test it and let me know what needs changed.
I get an error due to the Japanese font.
Also, test the Rollout as it auto calculates it.
HPI Pro 4 Editable Form TEST
Someone test it and let me know what needs changed.
I get an error due to the Japanese font.
Also, test the Rollout as it auto calculates it.
HPI Pro 4 Editable Form TEST