Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

yea, i had that happen before... now i always make sure the steel setscrew goes past the nut area, up into the top...

anyone find any parts in the US? i ordered some from Precision, and had them shipped up to Trackside so ill have them next week at the Novak race, but just looking to see if any were found stateside...

Wes

miccal

iTrader: (23)

I took the car out for a quick run at our track. My first experience with a Novak 13.5 motor, I ran 540 previously. The car had tremendous rear grip, but because the acceleration was much more than I was used to I spent most of the time concentrating on throttle control rather that how the car went.

miccal

iTrader: (23)

I have edited the TRF416 setup sheet and attached it as a png, since the pdf is too large to attach on rctech. If anyone wants the pdf, you can PM me your email.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Nice job on the blank setup sheet Miccal!

Well SpeedtechRC doesn't have spares in stock yet. And Tower doesn't have spares in stock either. But they do list them as order pending. So far only the Japanese and HK shops have spares. My spares should be coming from HK soon. And my 416 from Speedtech should be here tomorrow! Can't wait!!

miccal

iTrader: (23)

Thanks JimmyMac, I think removing the Japanese writing makes it easier to read. Also add a few other things to make life easier, like the rebound stroke for measurement on a droop gauge and the spring collar distance so its balanced left and right.

redbones

Any advice for outdoor asphalt on rubber, 23T? The stock setup is nice, but I feel the car can do more...

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

I don't know if anyone else has posted this already or not but I just got new arms yesterday to replace the bad ones that came with my kit and tested the new arms to make sure they were ok and sure enough, I had the same problem. Actually the rear arm fit fairly well. It wasn't as snug on the suspension pin as the old arms but there was no play. The front had the same slop as the kit arms. when I compared the new arms to an old arm I had, I noticed the hole looked a lot bigger on the new arm so I measured it. What i found was not only is the inner diameter larger (which you already knew) but the outer diameter is smaller. There's less material around the suspension pin then the old arms with the same part number. The inner diameter on the new arms measured 3.06mm and the outer was 6.63. The old arms inner diameter was 2.98mm and the outer was 7.09. The larger inner and smaller outer diameter combined are about a half mm less material. Don't know how much of a difference that will make durablility wise as the primary issue is still slop but I thought I'd mention it.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

We was arrived some spare parts !
www.rcmarket.com.hk

Thankyou !

redbones

dang, that is something to be considered. regardless, something changed in those arm's manufacturing process. I mean, the pro-racers would NEVER use arms that have that much slop, unless they CA it. I'm pretty sure Tamiya already knows of this. Some dude in Japan already posted an official complaint about this.

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

I'm glad someone complained directly to them. It looks to me when looking at the arms that someone changed it. The change looks intensional. Not sure why since the original arm worked great and was fairly durable

wyd

iTrader: (51)

You go Mr Tamiya.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

What up Brian! You guys still racing at the C? I may head up sometime late winter. Are they racing Saturdays? I've decided to get back into racing in 2008. Had to take a short break if you know what I mean.

Well starting my build on the 416. Just finished chassis prep. The edges were pretty rough with tiny fibers sticking out. A quick filing/sanding of the edges fixed this. Battery slots are a pain in the arse as usual. haha. I hate chassis prep!

I checked the arms in the kit. Definitely loose fitting on the hinge pins. I compared this to spares I had for my 415/Evo IV. The spares are nice and snug fit. Then I tried my stock 415MRE arms. Nice and snug fit. I suggest everyone email Tamiya USA about this issue. Then they can relay the message to Tamiya Japan. And perhaps get the molds fixed for this. But mean time, I will run my spares and put away the loose fitting kit arms. I did measure the outer thickness of the arms around the hinge pin. I found them to be the same on the new arms vs old arms. I just think the new arms are processed differently. Or at least the hinge pin holes.

Anyways, lemme get back to the build....

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Well, been in the same boat as Jimmy this evening....

Started my build at ~5pm this afternoon, it's now 4am, and I've just finished packing away all my tools Car is finished, all electronics installed too (so much room ), I'll put it on the gauges later.

I'll post a run down of the build some time tomorrow...i'm off to bed

For now... it looks gooooooood

redbones

Here's my pics for the car. Went through some battles already lol. Sorry it's kinda heavy.

I'm gonna try Marc Rheinard's setup at the next race.
http://www.tamiya.com/trf/images/set...jmrca_1118.pdf

Oh, I put a 1mm spacer on the belt stabilizer since mine's was not directly over the belt... Very solid car.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Okay, I'm going to be more dumb than usual tonight and ask a noob question. Until recently, I've only ever run foams, which means I have very little understanding of sway bars.

So, tonight I noticed the car was turning more one direction than the other, like it was tweaked. But I checked the tweak before I went out, so I knew it wasn't that. I decided to check my sway bars by removing the shocks, and then lifting a suspension arm and measuring how much it traveled upward before the arm on the other side moved. I discovered that this was WAY off, which seemed to be the source of my tweaked feeling. After some fiddling around, I placed the sway bar on a flat surface and found it to be slightly bent. I've barely used it at all, so I'm wondering if it came that way.

So, my question is, what's the right way to adjust sway bars so that they lift evenly from side to side? If your sway is bent, can you try to fix it by hand, or with adjusting the length of the rods connecting the sway to the arm? I tried messing with the length of those rods to make things more even, but couldn't really get a feel for how to adjust them to make things right. Do I need to just replace the sway, and if so, how common is it for them to bend? A quick tutorial on proper sway usage and adjustment is probably what I really need.

Again, sorry for the noob questions, but I'm early on into my rubber racing days.

The car was really pretty great tonight. It was leaning too much in my opinion (without the sways), but it was very drivable, and more consistent than what I was driving before. My concerns about durability have been put to rest for the most part, though I've done a good job of not hitting too much these last few times out. The new bumper made a world of difference. The diff is still smoother than anything I've used before, and that's with 20+ runs of angry, mean, torquey 13.5 motors. The room for electronics is great, and I've got a LiPo solution there that's working out very well, and about as elegant as you can get.