4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
02-25-2010, 10:11 AM
#8281
Tech Addict
Originally Posted by Zooberg
where can I buy Tamiya springs? type them white is harder than blue?
Not sure where you can get them in Sweden.
Here is one online shop with a link: http://www.planet-rc.ch/product_info...et-Onroad.html
There is also a special Tamiya set where all the springs are white, only with a small color code spot on them...
...
02-25-2010, 10:39 AM
#8282
Tech Master
Originally Posted by captain stacker
Hi, I'm thinking of moving over to a tamiya after driving xray.
the problem I have with my xray is when the steering is at about more than 50% travel, the wheels wobble alot. I know the fix is to replace with double jointed cvds, which cost $80 for the fronts.
does the 416x have problems with steering chatter at all?
I see atomic make some aftermarket uni's, and looks like xray's option ECS drive shafts. But hoping I wont need to go down that road of buying stuff that 'should' be included in the kit.
the problem I have with my xray is when the steering is at about more than 50% travel, the wheels wobble alot. I know the fix is to replace with double jointed cvds, which cost $80 for the fronts.
does the 416x have problems with steering chatter at all?
I see atomic make some aftermarket uni's, and looks like xray's option ECS drive shafts. But hoping I wont need to go down that road of buying stuff that 'should' be included in the kit.
02-25-2010, 06:39 PM
#8283
spare parts and lipo question
guys,
my car is assembled now with servo and rx just waiting for the esc and motor to come and finish it to go to the track.
the thing is i want to invest some money on some parts to avoid being out of a race or weekend at my race club.
which ones are most important to keep and about the suspension blocks which ones are good to have apart from the stock ones?
Also i am going to use the IP 5000 race pack lipo, it is roar aproved, it does not have the bumps below it so how can i fix it on the chassis? just using the tape is not going to be enough as to get a proper balance i think i will have to put it a bit far from the center line of the car.
my car is assembled now with servo and rx just waiting for the esc and motor to come and finish it to go to the track.
the thing is i want to invest some money on some parts to avoid being out of a race or weekend at my race club.
which ones are most important to keep and about the suspension blocks which ones are good to have apart from the stock ones?
Also i am going to use the IP 5000 race pack lipo, it is roar aproved, it does not have the bumps below it so how can i fix it on the chassis? just using the tape is not going to be enough as to get a proper balance i think i will have to put it a bit far from the center line of the car.
02-25-2010, 07:11 PM
#8284
Originally Posted by Fabricio
guys,
Also i am going to use the IP 5000 race pack lipo, it is roar aproved, it does not have the bumps below it so how can i fix it on the chassis? just using the tape is not going to be enough as to get a proper balance i think i will have to put it a bit far from the center line of the car.
Also i am going to use the IP 5000 race pack lipo, it is roar aproved, it does not have the bumps below it so how can i fix it on the chassis? just using the tape is not going to be enough as to get a proper balance i think i will have to put it a bit far from the center line of the car.
02-25-2010, 07:15 PM
#8285
double post...
02-25-2010, 11:49 PM
#8287
Tech Addict
Originally Posted by Fabricio
guys,
my car is assembled now with servo and rx just waiting for the esc and motor to come and finish it to go to the track.
the thing is i want to invest some money on some parts to avoid being out of a race or weekend at my race club.
which ones are most important to keep and about the suspension blocks which ones are good to have apart from the stock ones?
my car is assembled now with servo and rx just waiting for the esc and motor to come and finish it to go to the track.
the thing is i want to invest some money on some parts to avoid being out of a race or weekend at my race club.
which ones are most important to keep and about the suspension blocks which ones are good to have apart from the stock ones?
...
02-26-2010, 03:14 AM
#8289
Tech Addict
Originally Posted by hacker
do the front drive shafts made for the 416 fit the 416x?
...
02-26-2010, 05:46 AM
#8291
i have a friend going to tokyo japan and was wondering if buying tamiya and other rc related stuff is cheaper there? or is it still cheaper to order from china like rcmart. etc. im thinking im only gonna save on shipping or due to the weak dollar and high yen value i should not buy. thinking of getting the 416X and few parts and sorex tires.
just want to know if anyone else had a friend bring back stuff from tokyo.
thanks
just want to know if anyone else had a friend bring back stuff from tokyo.
thanks
02-26-2010, 05:11 PM
#8293
Originally Posted by syndr0me
At the indoor Euros, it looks like neither Marc or Victor are running the X. Both seem to have the batteries moved back into the position from the original 416, perhaps using the X chassis? Also, Victor is using the 2pc top deck.
HiH
Ed
02-27-2010, 08:50 AM
#8294
Originally Posted by TryHard
My guess is they are playing with the rear diff position. Elliott was discussing this the other week, in that with it forward seems better for higher traction, whilst rearward for lower... so makes sense given it looks like reasonably high traction again.
HiH
Ed
HiH
Ed
02-27-2010, 09:56 AM
#8295
Tech Initiate
Originally Posted by Apex
How are they moving the rear diff forward\backward? Changing bulkheads or just rotating the bearing holders?
The x has different bulkhead position int the back than the normal 416 and WE.It uses longer rear belt.You could use an X lower deck with a WE but you need the X's rear belt.
Anyway, I just changed my spur from 64dp to 48dp an my car is much louder!
I played with the gear mesh but nothing changed,it's more louder than with the 64dp setup.Is it normal or am i doing something wrong?
