Kyosho VoneR Thread
Originally posted by tenderfoot57
Hey Kid Thanks again for the info. What do you think of the lcg motor mounts and the lcg top deck for the rr. I think these changes are obviously to lower the cg therefore causing the car to roll less = better corner speed. = tq = points champ. correct? Does anybody think that these items are worth the cost. or do I just run with what I have, instead of worring about getting a lower cg.
Thanks to all.
Tenderfoot.
Hey Kid Thanks again for the info. What do you think of the lcg motor mounts and the lcg top deck for the rr. I think these changes are obviously to lower the cg therefore causing the car to roll less = better corner speed. = tq = points champ. correct? Does anybody think that these items are worth the cost. or do I just run with what I have, instead of worring about getting a lower cg.
Thanks to all.
Tenderfoot.
have you got any pics of your car??
jeremy.
i wish kyosho makes lower top deck. i think it is quite impossible to mod the existing deck to keep it lower from original height. you need to mod the front bulk head, steering bellcrank, battery mount, steering servo. too complicated but it would be nice to hear if some one can make it and show us how it goes.
Originally posted by Manticore
i wish kyosho makes lower top deck. i think it is quite impossible to mod the existing deck to keep it lower from original height. you need to mod the front bulk head, steering bellcrank, battery mount, steering servo. too complicated but it would be nice to hear if some one can make it and show us how it goes.
i wish kyosho makes lower top deck. i think it is quite impossible to mod the existing deck to keep it lower from original height. you need to mod the front bulk head, steering bellcrank, battery mount, steering servo. too complicated but it would be nice to hear if some one can make it and show us how it goes.
Hey u guys are correct. What I was thinking about was the lay-down steering conversion kit for the rr. Now that I thnk about it, it's probably a waste of time and money for the conversion.
Don't have any pictures of the completed car yet but it's stock except for the Hardcore Chassis and the refex drive. Oh and also reflex chassis stiffners left and right. (So pretty much stock plastic and susp.
Thinking of Ti pivot balls, Ti screws and Ti hing pins? already have 2 sets of hing pins though. one rr and one reflex. Havn't weighed these parts yet but I am trying to loose weight. What do you think? Anyone..
However I am trying to read through the entire post. I am getting alot of good ideas along the way. Thanks everyone! The only problem is that racing starts in 2.5 months and I am only on page 169!!! So any help in advance would be appreciated.
Thanks Tenderfoot
Don't have any pictures of the completed car yet but it's stock except for the Hardcore Chassis and the refex drive. Oh and also reflex chassis stiffners left and right. (So pretty much stock plastic and susp.
Thinking of Ti pivot balls, Ti screws and Ti hing pins? already have 2 sets of hing pins though. one rr and one reflex. Havn't weighed these parts yet but I am trying to loose weight. What do you think? Anyone..
However I am trying to read through the entire post. I am getting alot of good ideas along the way. Thanks everyone! The only problem is that racing starts in 2.5 months and I am only on page 169!!! So any help in advance would be appreciated.
Thanks Tenderfoot
Tenderfoot a few suggestions from my experiences.
Firstly, upgrade to the EVO when you get a chance. The new front geometry gives you excellent steering response, better than the RR. It is not "required", i used to get good steering out of my RR by using stiffer rear springs and softer front tires than the rears.
The reflex drivetrain is heavy in general. The clutch and 2 speed assembly is heavier than the Kyosho. The shafts however ARE lighter. Keep the Kyosho drivetrain and get some Ti or alloy shafts. The Kyosho Ti shafts are the best ones I have used so far.
Some other very useful mods are Titanium pivotballs, really reduces unsprung weight. Use a AAA battery pack and mount it low with spacers, this saves near on 30-40g.
The Kyosho R series is inherently a stable car, and its worst handling trait is on power steering. I still dont really know why but most of the newer cars are better at this. The rear diff is your friend here, use as stiff oil as you can get away with, it really helps.
Also lower the engine. Use Mugen or Kawahara engine mounts and get the flywheel from the FW05R. This makes the car handle noticably better with much more rear grip.
Some "luxury items" which are awesome are the kawahara rear blade swaybar and the Kyosho Titanium hingepins. The hingepins really free up the suspension action.
Firstly, upgrade to the EVO when you get a chance. The new front geometry gives you excellent steering response, better than the RR. It is not "required", i used to get good steering out of my RR by using stiffer rear springs and softer front tires than the rears.
The reflex drivetrain is heavy in general. The clutch and 2 speed assembly is heavier than the Kyosho. The shafts however ARE lighter. Keep the Kyosho drivetrain and get some Ti or alloy shafts. The Kyosho Ti shafts are the best ones I have used so far.
Some other very useful mods are Titanium pivotballs, really reduces unsprung weight. Use a AAA battery pack and mount it low with spacers, this saves near on 30-40g.
The Kyosho R series is inherently a stable car, and its worst handling trait is on power steering. I still dont really know why but most of the newer cars are better at this. The rear diff is your friend here, use as stiff oil as you can get away with, it really helps.
Also lower the engine. Use Mugen or Kawahara engine mounts and get the flywheel from the FW05R. This makes the car handle noticably better with much more rear grip.
Some "luxury items" which are awesome are the kawahara rear blade swaybar and the Kyosho Titanium hingepins. The hingepins really free up the suspension action.
AMG Thanks for the tips.
The main reason for not getting the evo is that I have only been able to race the rr twice and I got my first tq and my first win in thos two times out. Also I am on a tighter budget than usual. I have about $350 bucks extra and I figure I can get the evo or I can possibly make my existing car even better and then concentrate on tires from there.
Also this is only my second year of racing and my other car was already built when I purchased it, so I guess I love my rr and I want to experience the fun of making it better and faster.
I was thinking of getting the kawahara neg. diff. I know it's heavy but I would like to try. I am able to race at 2 different tracks. One is quite small (perfect for e cars) the other is quite large made for 8th scale. both are parking lots cleaned and prepped day of race.
Most of the time I was running solid rear and one way. I think the neg. diff would be good for the short and the solid for the large.
I am also having a hard time finding the kawahara hop ups you mentioned. Most of the older sites listed earlier in the thread havn't been all that help full. They show the parts but I have been unable to purchase them any help would be great.
Thanks alot Tenderfoot (The long winded newb)
The main reason for not getting the evo is that I have only been able to race the rr twice and I got my first tq and my first win in thos two times out. Also I am on a tighter budget than usual. I have about $350 bucks extra and I figure I can get the evo or I can possibly make my existing car even better and then concentrate on tires from there.
Also this is only my second year of racing and my other car was already built when I purchased it, so I guess I love my rr and I want to experience the fun of making it better and faster.
I was thinking of getting the kawahara neg. diff. I know it's heavy but I would like to try. I am able to race at 2 different tracks. One is quite small (perfect for e cars) the other is quite large made for 8th scale. both are parking lots cleaned and prepped day of race.
Most of the time I was running solid rear and one way. I think the neg. diff would be good for the short and the solid for the large.
I am also having a hard time finding the kawahara hop ups you mentioned. Most of the older sites listed earlier in the thread havn't been all that help full. They show the parts but I have been unable to purchase them any help would be great.
Thanks alot Tenderfoot (The long winded newb)
Originally posted by drfritz
There is a post on the second page that shows a conversion for a lay down servo system ( v1r laydown steering system) is the heading, and it was posted by sungtaz. email him for more info.
There is a post on the second page that shows a conversion for a lay down servo system ( v1r laydown steering system) is the heading, and it was posted by sungtaz. email him for more info.
Tech Master
May I lend a little hand in here as well
Tenderfoot: to save a few bucks try useing your reflex upper deck and fuel tank they are both made from K Factory, the tank will sit lower helping with C-G.
Tenderfoot: to save a few bucks try useing your reflex upper deck and fuel tank they are both made from K Factory, the tank will sit lower helping with C-G.
heyalignmentguy, Thank you I was thinking of that until I read in this thread that K Factory was not the best choice of hop up. And I have also seen quite a few of them (tanks) split at the seem. That is the reason for not wanting to do that.
Are there any other options as far as the tank is concerned.
I think I may try and shim the tank down as far as I can.
Also found the Ti parts I am looking for. Link on page 339 of thread.
AMG: Or anyone how about tobee craft drive shafts?
Didn't see kyosho Ti shafts.
Thanks all
tenderfoot
Are there any other options as far as the tank is concerned.
I think I may try and shim the tank down as far as I can.
Also found the Ti parts I am looking for. Link on page 339 of thread.
AMG: Or anyone how about tobee craft drive shafts?
Didn't see kyosho Ti shafts.
Thanks all
tenderfoot
Tech Regular
I would think if u were thinking about saving weight u would really want to go for Ti shafts and u could also use hinge pins which are very cheap and the steel ones are known for bending. Even though Pivot balls are quite advantageous i would still put them on the luxury list as they are pretty darn expensive and i think u could get more bang for ur bucks with the other things like the engine mounts and fly wheel. If u don't already have i would consider getting a graphite Y brace too there are a phew around i know Venom does one if u don't wanna go for K-Fac.
hi tenderfoot57, i thought i might just show you a pic of my car (vone rr). and as you can see its got quite a few different types of options on it such as kfactory, 3racing, GPM, and of course genuine kyosho stuff, and still to this day have not had any problems with aftermarket parts quality.
Last edited by rrgt_kid; 01-08-2004 at 02:37 AM.
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
Originally posted by Dexter
If u don't already have i would consider getting a graphite Y brace too there are a phew around i know Venom does one if u don't wanna go for K-Fac.
If u don't already have i would consider getting a graphite Y brace too there are a phew around i know Venom does one if u don't wanna go for K-Fac.
Originally posted by sparksy
The Venom parts are just rebagged Kfactory.
The Venom parts are just rebagged Kfactory.
Originally posted by Manticore
Venom has many kinds of rebagged ! kfactory is one of them.
Venom has many kinds of rebagged ! kfactory is one of them.
Anybody know where they are still selling the RR to Evo conversion?
If nobody has the kit what parts are required for an evo conversion?
Cheers
If nobody has the kit what parts are required for an evo conversion?
Cheers