Mabuchi540

Ok first of all thanks to all the ppls from whom I have gathered info on car set up/advice/etc etc (oh and Matt was right, my Car probably was/is lol already balanced perfectly left to right)

But now onto droop and ride height....

Ok I have stock standard CGM shocks and springs (silver and quite stiff) and backing the droop screws right off and using the shock collars for right height adjustment I ended up with 4.5 front and 5 mm rear ride height...ok that was pretty easy

But....

(and assuming I have this right)

The difference between the ride height and the amount I can lift the chassis before the wheels come of the ground is droop...going by that the difference is only 1mm (before the wheels lift) with the droop screws having no effect (if I wind them back in) to do anything but lower the car even more.

Is this one mm difference right?

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

No, it's not right. Just unscrew your shockends a couple of turns until the droop screws are actually doing something. The front should lift about 2-3mm and the rear 4-5mm before the tires lift up.

Horatio

Sounds like your shocks are too short. Assuming that you aren't using the droop screws, it's the shocks that then control the amount of droop.

Therefore, if your shocks are too short, the shocks will limit how much droop you get before the droop screws even come into play.

I remember having to lengthen my shocks by about 3mm when using standard SSG towers. You can either use different ball ends or simply unscrew them slightly on the shockshaft.

Hope this helps.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Ha, beat you to it LOL

Horatio

Sorry Matt - our posts crossed and you got in first!!

Mabuchi540

I have some long shock ends somewhere, will try it that way rather than unscrew the ones already on as they're not on by much in the first place to get the 60mm shock length the instructions asked for when first building the kit.

Horatio

Goddammit - and again!!!!

johnbull

Regarding shocks that are too short, I understand Rayspeed now make some special towers to get the travel with short shocks.

Perhaps that's your answer.

I have done it another way - use a longer shock. TC3 shocks are longer and so are Corally Assassin. And lots of guys rave about Tamiya shocks. They may be longer too, but I haven't tried them.

I am presently using Corally Assissin shocks on mine, with the normal Rayspeed carbon towers, and am very satisfied with them. They are a straight fit too.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

the new RS shocktowers are a couple of mm's lower than the regular RS towers and about the same as the kit towers.

Tommy Bergfeldt

Tamiyas is just about the same length as SSS shocks, not really sure if it's with long or short ball-cups.
I use SSS shocks with Long ballcup in rear and short in front on my Rayspeed tower equipped CGM with no problem.

Tried a Rayspeed upperdeck on my CGM too (extremely stiff) and it was quite good with Sorex 28's on carpet. Lost some speed in tighter corners though so i skipped it, the grip was real bad so i guess that's the main problem.

kentech

iTrader: (6)

A bit of Yokomo pictures/news:

http://www.yokomousa.com/kits/mr4tc_sd/sdw/mrtc-sdw.htm

http://www.radiocontrol.gr/galleries...1104/index.htm

Rayspeed Honda Accord:


JMRCA All Japan Expert Touring Car Championship coming up this weekend so we might see some more of the SDW then. Masami has won the last 4 years (that's as far as I remember anyway...) so the pressure will be on...

Rick Draper

Wahoo shud be even sooner than i even though it would be before i get my hands on my new yokomo Rick

Tommy Bergfeldt

Just got a set of the new HD A-Arms, is they worth putting in the car? The rear ones is MUCH beefier towards the hub and the 2 innermost holes for the damper is taken away, could'nt use these on the standard arms by the way...
The front ones looks nearly exact as the originals besides that the outermost damperhole is skipped.

vtl1180ny

I never have A arm problems, I have C hub problems... I've tried both the 4134 and 4134H's... Haven't tried the G's yet though....

pops

iTrader: (1)

The Graphit C hubs are very strong.