18LikesXray NT1
04-06-2010, 04:24 PM
#5147
I didn't use a brass plate. If I remember correctly (switched to LiFe last season) the Lipo + Regulator was close to weight of a NiMH pack. Or maybe my car was heavy to begin with. I did add about 20grams of weight to the left side of the chassis.
You have a few options on regulator placement.
1. If you have a small rx, put it in the box.
2. I velcro'd mine to the outer side of the steering servo
3. Then I bought a flat Losi Regulator and put it on top of the battery.
Hope this helps.
04-06-2010, 08:52 PM
#5148
Here it is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=360247497208
You would want any battery that is no longer than 85mm, wider than 30mm or thicker than 17.5mm.
IP 1450mah LiFe
IP 1200mah LiFe
ProTek 1450mah LiFe
All of those above mentioned will fit and without the need of a regulator.
04-07-2010, 06:50 PM
#5151
.jpg)
04-07-2010, 08:55 PM
#5153
I actually bought the first version of that charger, and it cost me twice of what you see there.
But its awesome to charge 4 things at the same time, and since at the moment I was racing 3 different categories in electric off-road, it was perfect to charge everything and not have to wait.
Right now, it stays at home where I charge the starter box, control, receiver pack and glow plug at the same time!
I also have a single charger for track charging.
04-08-2010, 05:41 AM
#5154
Go with @ least 1400mAh I heard it lasts a whole race day and I could charge @ max amps and have you ready to go by the time I finish using your tire truer
Super convenient, lightweight, safe and no reg (those things are $$$). Think about it. Tracks prepped this weekend
04-08-2010, 02:27 PM
#5155
ROK- Thanks for the offer. I'm going to try and get to a couple of outta town races involving the MWS. What then? lol.... I'l get it figured out. I'll always have the truer handy. It's yours when needed. Can't get to LH this weekend. I'll be wrenching and going to UG Sun. for a lil 12th scale! And SS!
04-10-2010, 08:45 AM
#5156
I am finally stepping up my game in nitro. After many years of running Kyosho and Mugen I am gonna get a NT1. Should be here next week. I am requesting some info on getting my first wave of spare parts. What can you guys suggest, what's failing,,,, belts, pulleys, arms, knuckles,,,,,or what. Would appreciate the feedback.
04-10-2010, 09:26 AM
#5157
I am finally stepping up my game in nitro. After many years of running Kyosho and Mugen I am gonna get a NT1. Should be here next week. I am requesting some info on getting my first wave of spare parts. What can you guys suggest, what's failing,,,, belts, pulleys, arms, knuckles,,,,,or what. Would appreciate the feedback.
If you're not a crasher, which from what I remember you aren't, you won't need much. I would recommend a set of spare belts, a set of arms, knuckles, just in case. I would recommend a hard bumper up front. Other than that, you're all good to go. Oh, the diff o-rings for rebuilding the diff.
Most of this stuff won't break, but you never know when Tory might decide to run his Kyosho into a wall and park it in front of you on the straight.
04-10-2010, 11:34 AM
#5158
I am finally stepping up my game in nitro. After many years of running Kyosho and Mugen I am gonna get a NT1. Should be here next week. I am requesting some info on getting my first wave of spare parts. What can you guys suggest, what's failing,,,, belts, pulleys, arms, knuckles,,,,,or what. Would appreciate the feedback.
04-10-2010, 04:56 PM
#5159
First off Jeff, welcome to the team
If you're not a crasher, which from what I remember you aren't, you won't need much. I would recommend a set of spare belts, a set of arms, knuckles, just in case. I would recommend a hard bumper up front. Other than that, you're all good to go. Oh, the diff o-rings for rebuilding the diff.
Most of this stuff won't break, but you never know when Tory might decide to run his Kyosho into a wall and park it in front of you on the straight.
If you're not a crasher, which from what I remember you aren't, you won't need much. I would recommend a set of spare belts, a set of arms, knuckles, just in case. I would recommend a hard bumper up front. Other than that, you're all good to go. Oh, the diff o-rings for rebuilding the diff.
Most of this stuff won't break, but you never know when Tory might decide to run his Kyosho into a wall and park it in front of you on the straight.
After watching nitro touring locally I believe I was giving up a little to the other guys by running what I had, plus the DNF's totally shut me down last year at Blue Diamond and Jackson.
I will place my order for the stuff you suggested, thanks. And I will tell Tory of your warning
04-10-2010, 05:09 PM
#5160
The number one part I replace is the clutch bearings, I have run the cars since 2007 and I think I have broken a front knuckle and a rear arm. Belts get used up after a LONG TIME unless you run on a track with grass runnoff areas then they can be used up in seconds if your on throttle to get out of the grass. Overall a great car. shock orings for rebuilds, front springs in the dark blue to light red range are handy, rear springs dark blue to light red (pink) range. shock oil is good to have 500-700cst, Diff oil in the 150k-50k range depending on track layout and grip. I run the max engine lines and my gearing is typically 17/23 for pinions, if you run os or something else stock gearing should be fine. But you might want to get the 17/23 range if your running an engine with more power or on a larger track. If your kit doesn't come with it I would get the aluminum wheel hexes. Get a set of arm plastics and maybe front bulkhead plastics and front and rear hubs. That should do it. I replace things WAY more than they need to be but I have run 3 hour enduro's and the only things that i replaced was the clutch bearings cause they were hammered, and I rebuilt the shocks, regreased the clutch thrust bearing, and lubed the one way on the first gear carrier. and if your the type that hits things alot, maybe some wheel bearings as I have yet to replace a bearing that wasn't in the hubs(these are the most stressed bearings other than the clutch bearings).
The previous car I ran I did not break often, just kept blowing 2nd gears and launching belts or breaking belts. I was gonna get new pulleys all the way around, all new belts, all new gears, all fresh bearings (still original only cleaned them since I got the car several years ago), replace rear outdrives (grooved),,,,,,,,wait a minute. WHy would I invest that kind of $$$$$ in a used car,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,just buy a new one. Sooooooooooooo, it was time for me to move up to the best car on the market!!!