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Old 04-06-2010, 05:14 PM   #5146
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The IP packs, I think 2200mah fits fine. The regular will not fit under there with the battery.
Thanks guys- I'll have to find a proper location for the regulator.Do I need to get a brass tray to compensate weight? I'm not worried about tech, just raising the center of gravity with the lighter battery.
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Old 04-06-2010, 05:24 PM   #5147
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Thanks guys- I'll have to find a proper location for the regulator.Do I need to get a brass tray to compensate weight? I'm not worried about tech, just raising the center of gravity with the lighter battery.
No problem, we're here to help.

I didn't use a brass plate. If I remember correctly (switched to LiFe last season) the Lipo + Regulator was close to weight of a NiMH pack. Or maybe my car was heavy to begin with. I did add about 20grams of weight to the left side of the chassis.

You have a few options on regulator placement.
1. If you have a small rx, put it in the box.
2. I velcro'd mine to the outer side of the steering servo
3. Then I bought a flat Losi Regulator and put it on top of the battery.

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-06-2010, 09:52 PM   #5148
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Thanks guys- I'll have to find a proper location for the regulator.Do I need to get a brass tray to compensate weight? I'm not worried about tech, just raising the center of gravity with the lighter battery.
Get a LiFe, you wont need to go through the trouble of finding a regulator, and its 10 grams lighter. I would still consider getting the brass plate, because even if your car is heavy, it puts weight on where you want it.

Here it is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=360247497208

You would want any battery that is no longer than 85mm, wider than 30mm or thicker than 17.5mm.

IP 1450mah LiFe
IP 1200mah LiFe
ProTek 1450mah LiFe

All of those above mentioned will fit and without the need of a regulator.
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Old 04-06-2010, 11:19 PM   #5149
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What Lipo Rxs are most popular in the NT1? I've got Lipo chargers and don't want to have to get an LiFe setup. I figure to get an 2300 +/- battery and a regulator. tia, Nick A
Sorry, didnt saw that you dont have a LiFe charger.

I would still advise you to get the LiFe and purchase a Lipo/LiFe/Li-ion/Nihm charger that can be purchased at around $40-$50 on eBay, and will never need another charger again...
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Old 04-07-2010, 07:12 PM   #5150
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Thanks for the advise. Gotta do the $$$ vs. performance vs convienence thing and decide where to go. I know the LiFe battery is the right move, just wish one of my FIVE chargers would work..GoodRacing, Nick
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Old 04-07-2010, 07:50 PM   #5151
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Thanks for the advise. Gotta do the $$$ vs. performance vs convienence thing and decide where to go. I know the LiFe battery is the right move, just wish one of my FIVE chargers would work..GoodRacing, Nick
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...dProduct=10327



Sell them all and get the charger above...
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:03 PM   #5152
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MUST be one of your sponsors!!! lol.
That is a nice looking unit though.
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Old 04-07-2010, 09:55 PM   #5153
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MUST be one of your sponsors!!! lol.
That is a nice looking unit though.
Not really, I wish.

I actually bought the first version of that charger, and it cost me twice of what you see there.

But its awesome to charge 4 things at the same time, and since at the moment I was racing 3 different categories in electric off-road, it was perfect to charge everything and not have to wait.

Right now, it stays at home where I charge the starter box, control, receiver pack and glow plug at the same time!

I also have a single charger for track charging.
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Old 04-08-2010, 06:41 AM   #5154
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Thanks for the advise. Gotta do the $$$ vs. performance vs convienence thing and decide where to go. I know the LiFe battery is the right move, just wish one of my FIVE chargers would work..GoodRacing, Nick
Nick, the least I could do for you is charge your LiFe for you Go with @ least 1400mAh I heard it lasts a whole race day and I could charge @ max amps and have you ready to go by the time I finish using your tire truer Super convenient, lightweight, safe and no reg (those things are $$$). Think about it. Tracks prepped this weekend
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Old 04-08-2010, 03:27 PM   #5155
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ROK- Thanks for the offer. I'm going to try and get to a couple of outta town races involving the MWS. What then? lol.... I'l get it figured out. I'll always have the truer handy. It's yours when needed. Can't get to LH this weekend. I'll be wrenching and going to UG Sun. for a lil 12th scale! And SS!
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Old 04-10-2010, 09:45 AM   #5156
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I am finally stepping up my game in nitro. After many years of running Kyosho and Mugen I am gonna get a NT1. Should be here next week. I am requesting some info on getting my first wave of spare parts. What can you guys suggest, what's failing,,,, belts, pulleys, arms, knuckles,,,,,or what. Would appreciate the feedback.
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Old 04-10-2010, 10:26 AM   #5157
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I am finally stepping up my game in nitro. After many years of running Kyosho and Mugen I am gonna get a NT1. Should be here next week. I am requesting some info on getting my first wave of spare parts. What can you guys suggest, what's failing,,,, belts, pulleys, arms, knuckles,,,,,or what. Would appreciate the feedback.
First off Jeff, welcome to the team

If you're not a crasher, which from what I remember you aren't, you won't need much. I would recommend a set of spare belts, a set of arms, knuckles, just in case. I would recommend a hard bumper up front. Other than that, you're all good to go. Oh, the diff o-rings for rebuilding the diff.

Most of this stuff won't break, but you never know when Tory might decide to run his Kyosho into a wall and park it in front of you on the straight.
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Old 04-10-2010, 12:34 PM   #5158
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I am finally stepping up my game in nitro. After many years of running Kyosho and Mugen I am gonna get a NT1. Should be here next week. I am requesting some info on getting my first wave of spare parts. What can you guys suggest, what's failing,,,, belts, pulleys, arms, knuckles,,,,,or what. Would appreciate the feedback.
The number one part I replace is the clutch bearings, I have run the cars since 2007 and I think I have broken a front knuckle and a rear arm. Belts get used up after a LONG TIME unless you run on a track with grass runnoff areas then they can be used up in seconds if your on throttle to get out of the grass. Overall a great car. shock orings for rebuilds, front springs in the dark blue to light red range are handy, rear springs dark blue to light red (pink) range. shock oil is good to have 500-700cst, Diff oil in the 150k-50k range depending on track layout and grip. I run the max engine lines and my gearing is typically 17/23 for pinions, if you run os or something else stock gearing should be fine. But you might want to get the 17/23 range if your running an engine with more power or on a larger track. If your kit doesn't come with it I would get the aluminum wheel hexes. Get a set of arm plastics and maybe front bulkhead plastics and front and rear hubs. That should do it. I replace things WAY more than they need to be but I have run 3 hour enduro's and the only things that i replaced was the clutch bearings cause they were hammered, and I rebuilt the shocks, regreased the clutch thrust bearing, and lubed the one way on the first gear carrier. and if your the type that hits things alot, maybe some wheel bearings as I have yet to replace a bearing that wasn't in the hubs(these are the most stressed bearings other than the clutch bearings).
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Old 04-10-2010, 05:56 PM   #5159
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First off Jeff, welcome to the team

If you're not a crasher, which from what I remember you aren't, you won't need much. I would recommend a set of spare belts, a set of arms, knuckles, just in case. I would recommend a hard bumper up front. Other than that, you're all good to go. Oh, the diff o-rings for rebuilding the diff.

Most of this stuff won't break, but you never know when Tory might decide to run his Kyosho into a wall and park it in front of you on the straight.
Hey Dorian, thanks for the welcome. Sorry you had to move away from our area, our loss is the racers you interact with's gain. I see you have not missed a beat! I don't post much and been busy with "real estate" stuff. I decided to "just do it" and make the change to the NT1. Iv'e been running XRAY electrics for many years, just that I had a huge box of spares I collected over the years for my Mugen, now I have to start over.

After watching nitro touring locally I believe I was giving up a little to the other guys by running what I had, plus the DNF's totally shut me down last year at Blue Diamond and Jackson.

I will place my order for the stuff you suggested, thanks. And I will tell Tory of your warning
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Old 04-10-2010, 06:09 PM   #5160
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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
The number one part I replace is the clutch bearings, I have run the cars since 2007 and I think I have broken a front knuckle and a rear arm. Belts get used up after a LONG TIME unless you run on a track with grass runnoff areas then they can be used up in seconds if your on throttle to get out of the grass. Overall a great car. shock orings for rebuilds, front springs in the dark blue to light red range are handy, rear springs dark blue to light red (pink) range. shock oil is good to have 500-700cst, Diff oil in the 150k-50k range depending on track layout and grip. I run the max engine lines and my gearing is typically 17/23 for pinions, if you run os or something else stock gearing should be fine. But you might want to get the 17/23 range if your running an engine with more power or on a larger track. If your kit doesn't come with it I would get the aluminum wheel hexes. Get a set of arm plastics and maybe front bulkhead plastics and front and rear hubs. That should do it. I replace things WAY more than they need to be but I have run 3 hour enduro's and the only things that i replaced was the clutch bearings cause they were hammered, and I rebuilt the shocks, regreased the clutch thrust bearing, and lubed the one way on the first gear carrier. and if your the type that hits things alot, maybe some wheel bearings as I have yet to replace a bearing that wasn't in the hubs(these are the most stressed bearings other than the clutch bearings).
Excellent information. Appreciate you taking the time to respond to my post. Very detailed and concise. I don't run 3 hour enduros so that will help me.
The previous car I ran I did not break often, just kept blowing 2nd gears and launching belts or breaking belts. I was gonna get new pulleys all the way around, all new belts, all new gears, all fresh bearings (still original only cleaned them since I got the car several years ago), replace rear outdrives (grooved),,,,,,,,wait a minute. WHy would I invest that kind of $$$$$ in a used car,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,just buy a new one. Sooooooooooooo, it was time for me to move up to the best car on the market!!!
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