18LikesXray NT1
06-04-2008, 06:39 PM
#3076
Tech Regular
if you are having such huge tyre wear it's proabbly due to the rear end sliding around too much, you might not notice it because the car feels quick, but it may be that it is infact quick because it is steering into the corners by sliding the rear end around.
try to soften the rear up, or try to go a narrower track width at the front, and increase the initial steering at the front by going to a lower shock position on the front tower, or a softer shock oil or more holes open on the front shocks, basically dial more steering into the front (to increase steering) and soften the rear up (to stop the car from sliding into the corners as you enter).
just an idea. but usually excessive tyre wear means you are slidding around as opposed to gripping, even if you don't notice it, it may be the case, so try the above.
try to soften the rear up, or try to go a narrower track width at the front, and increase the initial steering at the front by going to a lower shock position on the front tower, or a softer shock oil or more holes open on the front shocks, basically dial more steering into the front (to increase steering) and soften the rear up (to stop the car from sliding into the corners as you enter).
just an idea. but usually excessive tyre wear means you are slidding around as opposed to gripping, even if you don't notice it, it may be the case, so try the above.
TomB, some good tips there I think I'll try myself. Our track has sh*t grip for half the day, is bumpy in some parts plus it has horrible tyre wear. It affects all cars (NT1, 720, RRR, MTX, 1/8, 1/10th) though. Trying a different config costs nothing but a few laps of time. I was wondering about softening the front shocks though. I find with a softer front shock steering tends to be less accurate. Do I get more steering out a corner if the front shocks are softer???
Rob
06-04-2008, 07:02 PM
#3077
Tech Regular
also the protoform stratus body is shithouse (very understeery on exit). if you are using it, ditch it, and go to one that steers more. From what i heard the east civic tourer bod is good. the Serpent distributors here in Australia are the importers. from all reports it has really good rear end grip and excellent exit steering.
For me the Kawahara IS250 has been a pretty good body on the NT1 on the track I use. It's definitely tougher than the Protoform but also heavier (thicker lexan). It's quick but can be a little jumpy when grip is low. While it is more expensive I've been running the same Kawahara body for 7 weekends straight and it's still in one piece. I've lost a wing though but the body comes with 2.
06-04-2008, 07:02 PM
#3078
TomB, some good tips there I think I'll try myself. Our track has sh*t grip for half the day, is bumpy in some parts plus it has horrible tyre wear. It affects all cars (NT1, 720, RRR, MTX, 1/8, 1/10th) though. Trying a different config costs nothing but a few laps of time. I was wondering about softening the front shocks though. I find with a softer front shock steering tends to be less accurate. Do I get more steering out a corner if the front shocks are softer???
Rob
Rob
what you could also try is a harder spring, and less holes open on the front shock, just play around with setup. if it's heaps bumpy, then just go to a soft oil soft shock (electric car style springs), and narrow the track width heaps.
you could also lower the height of the front top a arm as well to gain more front grip
06-04-2008, 07:47 PM
#3079
Tech Regular
New clutch spring
I've just ordered the new Hudy clutch spring, the hard one (black). Any suggestions on how far I should clamp it down. 1mm? 1.2mm? Right now I use the Mugen Super Hard and that clamps down to .4~.6 and works great. Going to try the Hudy hard spring but looking for any ideas on clutch settings. I'm using the yellow shoe with a .7mm gap and .1mm end play.
Has anyone tried placing flyweights between pins?
Has anyone tried placing flyweights between pins?
06-04-2008, 08:37 PM
#3080
I've just ordered the new Hudy clutch spring, the hard one (black). Any suggestions on how far I should clamp it down. 1mm? 1.2mm? Right now I use the Mugen Super Hard and that clamps down to .4~.6 and works great. Going to try the Hudy hard spring but looking for any ideas on clutch settings. I'm using the yellow shoe with a .7mm gap and .1mm end play.
Has anyone tried placing flyweights between pins?
Has anyone tried placing flyweights between pins?
06-05-2008, 06:48 AM
#3081
Has anyone tried the multi-flex engine mount? How should it be used?
06-05-2008, 07:45 AM
#3082
It's an option to help stiffen up and lessen chassis flex. Good for really high traction conditions and helps the car become more responsive only in those conditions. Otherwise it may cause your to push more, and just have less traction overall on a low traction surface.
06-05-2008, 12:59 PM
#3083
If you have the 2nd gear broken syndrome, use it.
06-05-2008, 03:42 PM
#3084
Tech Master
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It's an option to help stiffen up and lessen chassis flex. Good for really high traction conditions and helps the car become more responsive only in those conditions. Otherwise it may cause your to push more, and just have less traction overall on a low traction surface.
06-08-2008, 06:09 PM
#3085
And always use fresh tires. Fresh tires really make the difference.
AND NEVER EVER CUT REAR TIRES TO BE USE AS FRONT TIRES.
Bboy : ( perhaps this is my personal setup, you don't have to follow )
Recently I've been using softer tires for front and harder tires for rear with 2.5 mm split. I use Kawahara 37 front and 40 rear. Why harder rear tires ?
1st. This help reduce excessive rear tire wear in my car. After 1 hour practice, front tires and rear tires end up almost the same diameter. Sometimes rear tires still get 1mm bigger in diameter than front tires. ( fyi : driving with smaller rear tires than front is really lousy to drive ).
2nd. I need more steering + higher cornering speed. Softer tires at front in theory will create more front bite, thus creating more steering and possibly higher cornering speed too.
3rd. I'm still using front gear diff. I don't use one way. Using front & rear gear diff setup require 1:1 overdrive ratio, otherwise you are either dragging front or rear tires. Harder rear tires help me to maintain close to 1:1 overdrive ratio during long final because front and rear tires are wearing at the same rate.
AND NEVER EVER CUT REAR TIRES TO BE USE AS FRONT TIRES.
Bboy : ( perhaps this is my personal setup, you don't have to follow )
Recently I've been using softer tires for front and harder tires for rear with 2.5 mm split. I use Kawahara 37 front and 40 rear. Why harder rear tires ?
1st. This help reduce excessive rear tire wear in my car. After 1 hour practice, front tires and rear tires end up almost the same diameter. Sometimes rear tires still get 1mm bigger in diameter than front tires. ( fyi : driving with smaller rear tires than front is really lousy to drive ).
2nd. I need more steering + higher cornering speed. Softer tires at front in theory will create more front bite, thus creating more steering and possibly higher cornering speed too.
3rd. I'm still using front gear diff. I don't use one way. Using front & rear gear diff setup require 1:1 overdrive ratio, otherwise you are either dragging front or rear tires. Harder rear tires help me to maintain close to 1:1 overdrive ratio during long final because front and rear tires are wearing at the same rate.
Just want to update everyone. I tried the setup above and the car drove beautifully. I also tried front gear diff vs one way and it seem to give me a lot more throttle control and solid feel. I think I will play with the front next time to see the difference between gear diff vs spool vs one-way.
Cheers everyone!
06-09-2008, 05:26 AM
#3086
Get your spool out!
06-09-2008, 07:03 AM
#3087
Thanks Ralph, Paul, Josh, Mike, Drew and the entire XRAY RC America team for the great support this past weekend at the 2008 Capital Classic!!!
Once again, copying Ralph's NT1 setup and making just a few changes for my driving style proved to be the consistently fast way around the track for me.
Congrats Ralph on the second consecutive TQ and this years Sedan A main win, amongst arguably the best drivers in the entire US. Next year hopefully we can draw the overseas crowd to the race, add an extra day and fit in 300+ entries.
Here's a link to the setup I ran in the B main.
Once again, copying Ralph's NT1 setup and making just a few changes for my driving style proved to be the consistently fast way around the track for me.
Congrats Ralph on the second consecutive TQ and this years Sedan A main win, amongst arguably the best drivers in the entire US. Next year hopefully we can draw the overseas crowd to the race, add an extra day and fit in 300+ entries.
Here's a link to the setup I ran in the B main.
Last edited by teamgp; 06-09-2008 at 07:25 AM.
06-09-2008, 08:16 AM
#3088
hi Guys,
I have problem with the brackpads. The lifespan is very short an durring the long finals its not consistend. What for pads do u guys runnig? has anyone a good idea for the pads. other brand etc...
thnx
I have problem with the brackpads. The lifespan is very short an durring the long finals its not consistend. What for pads do u guys runnig? has anyone a good idea for the pads. other brand etc...
thnx
06-09-2008, 10:20 AM
#3089
I had the same problem and all I did was flip the brake disk so that the slots went the other way. After that, the pads lasted a lot longer.
06-09-2008, 10:30 AM
#3090
After I started glueing the pads to the aluminum back plates, the wear went down significantly. I also have the brake disc mounted so that the groves rotate forward and out from the center shaft, like a saw blade.