danjoy25

iTrader: (38)

Can't wait Jason. Any updated with the chassis.

protc3

iTrader: (13)

i have alot of the stuff drawn up in my cad system for the kit.the rear top deck is going to be aluminum.the kit is really looking good so far.i am hoping to have the proto ready this week.i wanna go run my car again.is it next sunday yet?

chrisw

iTrader: (14)

jason
again i want to thank you for the help today. next time out my cyclone should be on rails. thanks for the set up help.
chris

protc3

iTrader: (13)

no problem buddy.im going down to speedline next weekend if you guys wanna come.should be fun.

heres my set up guys.i will put in the number positions according to the setup sheet for tower locations and such.

cs27 premounts
Front:
1.5 camber
4 deg. castor
4.5mm ride height
6mm droop
spool
1.4 sway bar
.5 toe out per side
gold HPI springs
45 weight oil
1.5mm shims under the hinge pin blocks
tower shock position 2
arm hole shock position 1
bulkhead camber link location 4 3mm shim under the ball studs
acherman 2mm shim under both ballstud on steering rack

Rear:
1.5 deg. camber
5mm ride height
6mm droop
1.4 sway bar
3.0 rear block with 1.5mm shims
front hinge pin block shimmed up 3mm
hub camber link location 1 (no shims under ballstud)
bulkhead camber link location 4 w/ 1.5mm shims under ballstud
shock tower shock position 2
arm hole shock position 2
pink HPI springs
35 weight oil
wheelbase standard
front and rear width -.5mm


i ran a mazda 6 body,ran a CO27 with a 108 spur and 41 pinion.i used tire tweak and wiped the tweak off with buggy grip before i ran.this same setup worked great with a checkpoint 7x1.i geared that one at 108 spur and 30 pinion.

floodo1

try ride accord (either version).

Aurra Sing

Hello all. For winter, i run on carpet/foam tires which is very demanding on the car mechanically, and i've been breaking diff screws almost every run (either the front OR rear!!) Not to say i'm a bad driver, but i may graze a wall at speed on occasion, but that's it! I have tried the hpi, tamiya, and TC3 diff screw/nuts and all of them snap at the lightest hit. Has anybody got a solution to this?

I have tried running my diffs as loose as possible. Seems to help, but i dont like running the diffs that loose. Apparently i'm not the only Cyclone driver experiencing it. Also a fellow driver's RDX is having the same problem.

In the mean time, here is my 19t foam tire set up, near perfect, my lap time was 2 tenths faster than the closest person in our competitive 19t class..

Front/rear
camber 2/2
oil 50/40
springs 33.5/26lbs
ride height 5/5mm
droop 1.5/1.8mm (Δ ride height)
sway bar black/none
toe blocks 0/1.5
shock position 2nd hole/middle hole
spacers under pivot blocks 1.5/2mm (no squat/dive)
spacers under upper links 2.75/2mm
body parma alfa
diff/diff
everything else left kit setup

XrayFK

iTrader: (1)

You're snapping the screw that holds the diff together? Or the nut? Have you tried using the heavy duty diff nut? I have personally never had this problem, and I don't see how you would be snapping this, as the diff should slip or just give under impact.

Aurra Sing

Yes, the screw. It's strange because only until recently, i have been snapping them. But like, the first 2 months of having the car, i had no problems whatsoever.

XrayFK

iTrader: (1)

It might be that you just got a weak batch of diff screws. How are you building the diffs? Check Hara's tips on putting together the diffs. Not sure what would cause your problem though. Are the diffs totally smooth? I would say rebuild the thrust bearing and make sure you put shims in. (one between diff nut and outdrive, and one after the thrust spring.

lookinco

I just broke my diff screw as well this weekend. I also broke the center one-way, the one-way bearing came loose from the pulley.

I talked to a few experienced racers and they said it's not an uncommon thing to have broken diff screw as the diff is under a lot of pressure and power.

Mitropoulos Jim

Mabe you guys tighten the diff screw too much.
Since you run carpet, the diff is under a lot of pressure and it could be easy for the screw to break.Try to build the diffs as in the manual,and do not use thread lock,espesially the red one.
This could solve your problem.

I have never faced this kind of problem,and my diff is perfect for 40-50 runs and without thread lock.

Skill

Just found this and thought some of you guys who are having diff screw problems might find this interesting:

http://www.rc-edit.com/piw.php?partN...refix=&lang=en

Frank McKinney

Heh - you beat me to posting it

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Nice!




and no US distributors...
hopefully when it's available..they can ship to the US.

danjoy25

iTrader: (38)

Damn, another ti hotup on my wish list. I might try them before the ti CVD