InspGadgt

Have fun at the Birds!

Whelp I got my electronics reinstalled after doing the modification to clear the servo saver to the chassis. Just gotta let the Shoe Goo sit up over night then finish the wiring and I'll be able to test and see if I got my radio glitching problem solved. Wish me luck!

THE DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

The offices of Darkside Motorsports will be closed from February 3rd until February 14th. We will be attending the 2007 Snowbird nationals in Orlando Florida. Come look for us on mfr's row. Any orders placed during this time will be shipped when we return.

Customworksking

iTrader: (74)

Have U seen this 1/12 yet ? lot like yours

THE DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

Yep, I've seen it.

Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

Hey all, I just picked up a new Darkside MX2 chassis at my local track here in Minnesota, Impulse purchase.... Got a couple of quick questions for Eric or anyone else before I tear into building it...
1- My 4 rear links plastic parts are all same length, rather than short and long like some have described... for simplicity?
2-Which link holes in the chassis do I want to use, forward or back? picture for reference..
3-Which tweak holes do I want to start with, I saw earlier in the thread that someone recommended the outermost ones?
4-My front steering linkage came with 2 Associated style links and two big captured ball links, I am presuming to use the captured ball ones on the inside?
5-My kit came with servo mounts that will mount the servo flat, is that the preferred way to run the servo, verus angled?
All the questions for now, maybe more later... I am excited to try this car out, I am really impressed by the hardware and completeness of the kit, nice parts, axle, cool pod plates, nice damper tubes, etc. etc... Only minor thing I saw was no antenna mount of any kind in the kit, I have a few Corally type ones that will work good and take up little room...
Good luck at the 'Birds!

Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

I have one more question I thought of, what is the recommended starting height to shim the rear links and center ball, I run on a half slippery track that changes layouts fairly often if that helps.... I saw earlier in the thread about .044 on the balls... Good starting point? Thanks!

Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

I have been using the longer link holes.
Start with the springs in the outermost holes, its keeps the car more stable.
Servo flat seems to work well with this car.
As for ballcups make sure that nothing rubs and you will be fine.

Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

Ive been using . 044 on the balls and .o60 for the football to put the pod plate just a smidge higher. I have tried a bunch of different spacers and this eems to be the most consistent track to track.

InspGadgt

1 - Odd...but it should still work.
2 - I used the longer holes.
3 - I started with the outer most holes because it seemed all my other link/mono ball based suspension cars in the past have had more roll then my t-plate cars. So far it's worked well for me.
4 - Yours came with those? Lucky dog! Mine were all snap on rod ends. Yes the captured rod ends should go to the inside on the servo saver.
5 - It seems more companies have been trying the flat servo again...in my mind it is still up in the air over which is better but I like flat because it lowers the CG more and puts the tie rods in a position where they are much easier to adjust.
6 - All the years when I worked at hobby stores I always reccomended starting with the setup box stock (2 washers in this case) to at least get a base line of what the car will do and adjust from there.

Additional suggestions:
- I like the small kimbro servo saver better then the kit black kimbro servo saver. The small one will bring your tie rods a bit lower and also allow you to mount the servo a bit lower.
- Get your hands on a Slapmaster Thrust Bearing! Those things are awesome and will not only build you a smooth diff, but a smooth diff that lasts a long time.
- Pay attention to the washers used to space the rear axle out...I didn't notice it at first but one side is not flat...it's been indexed a bit to contact only the inner race of the bearing...either that or mine wore an edge into the washer.
- I like having the standoffs in front of the battery instead of on the sides. I allready had one crash due to a glitch where I broke the ears off the servo that upon taking apart the car I discovered was due to the battery hitting hard enough to bend the screws holding the standoffs and impacting the servo. Silly me I had aluminum screws holding the standoffs to the chassis when I should have used the steel ones.

Keep in mind these are my personal suggestions after running the car in only 2 races and I am an average racer...not some awesome national guy who knows more about the car then I do

THE DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

Let's see here:

1 & 2) This is a running change on the car, all kits will come this way in the future. I recommend using the holes closer to the back of the chassis, shorter overall link.

3) Yes, use the outermost set of tweak holes

4) Also a running change, use the captured rod end at the servo saver

5) That's a matter of personal preference, but I think you'll hear more of the guys with the car running the servo flat.

Hope that helps, I'm leaving later today for the Snowbirds, so I won't be posting as much for a week or so.

-E

InspGadgt

Nice running changes! Do well at the Birds!

I really like the way my steering links came out now that I have the servo Shoe Goo'd flat on the chassis with a hole cut to clear the servo saver. The tie rods now are straight across with only a slight downward angle from the servo saver. This should give a tad of toe in on bump steer which should help to keep the car settled. I'll get pics when I get to the office tomorrow.

Oh! And I got a chance to do a range check in an area I know to be high in RF interferrence and the car worked great after I fixed the antenna route on the Spektrum module. The real test will come this Sunday in the race...I'm not 100% convinced that I fixed the problem so I'll be bringing a 75Mhz module and reciever along just in case.

THE DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

Yep, I like to hear the suggestions that people who are driving the car have. It helps make the car better.

-E

Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

Thank you Mike, Eric, and Inspector for the advice, and good luck to all the Darksiders at the 'Birds!...
Time to start building for me!

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

Very good help here on building the car. Ran mine for a second weekend and was 6 seconds off being 4th in the A. Qualified 2nd in the B and did not improve.

Found that when the run was over, the center pivot screw had loosened up!! So remember the Loctite, I seem to recall Darkside reminding me to do that, but must have missed one!!

M2_Driver

I would like to say good luck to everyone who is headed to the Snowbirds this week.

I would also like to thank everyone who took a chance on the Mx2. We have had a blast putting this car together and I hope everyone has as much fun with their kits, as we have had.

Hey Mike Haynes---Get us on the podium again!!!!