b20btec

iTrader: (11)

I've ran up to a size 54 in a 64 pitch, you should be fine. I mainly use a 96 spur in most cases. I'm not sure if it's been posted but a 92/54 combo will work for you. Keep in mind if you're running motors like the trinity you will be limited with adjustment not unless you run a different front end bell. Tamiya doesn't give you much room for adjustment. Just wondering is 3.15 the max fdr is that a standard for blinky class?

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

3.15 FDR is awful high for a 17.5, unless the track was huge.

niznai

Nah, if you've go the torque to get it spinning.

acutts

Yes very big track

acutts

Just started my build and currently doing the diff..... the kit does not come with any diff oil?? Comes with two bottles of damper oil (yellow & clear) ?? If there is none then that is a blow as won't be able to get any until next week

TB03Racer09

iTrader: (1)

One of the shock oils is for the diff, I think its the clear one but check the manual to be sure

sosidge

The clear oil is intended for the diff, however if this is anything other than a shelf queen you won't want to use it. Don't bother with the black o-rings, get the red TRF o-rings and a set of fine shims to make sure that the outdrives spin freely in the fatter seals. 2000 oil is where I keep going back to.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Ha! Shelf queen you wouldn't stick any oil in!

But you're correct, the clear is for the diff, it's 900 wt.

Too loose for, umm, anything really.

I'm on 2000 as well. Seems a good balance for my track with 13.5t blinky.

With the red Orings I find the stock shims (0.3mm) or the TDX equivalent just fine.

acutts

I have bought TRF Part 42231 to mount my dampers to the lower suspension arms instead of the supplied ball connector. It will allow for easier removal of the shocks. However I am not sure what size grub screw I need to buy to achieve this? Anyone know the tamiya part no i am looking for?

d16dcoe45

iTrader: (1)

Any 3x8mm set screw will do.

I run 4mm in the arm, 4mm sticking out

The Tamiya "Hollow" Titanium set/grub screws work well--although I don't know where the "hollow" part comes from, they are solid screws.

xrayaustin

iTrader: (12)

Part number u r looking for is 42238. Mixed with some 42231 connectors top and bottom. Make your shocks free like money

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I have done this as well. Works great. I screwed the grub screws in until you feel them stop. Plenty of thread still sticking out. They should come like this as standard. Tamiya you listening? Hehe.

Is anyone running a flexible chassis on asphalt, for 17.5t, or just the standard one? I'm wondering if it's too flexible if it'll stall the car mid corner. Or would that be a too stiff chassis?

xrayaustin

iTrader: (12)

I've been running the stock one with pretty good succuess. I have just put the entire Samix conversion on my car and am taking both chassis with me to nationals when I leave tuesday. My personal opinion is that stiff makes the car have more steering under normal curcumstance. But just like anything else too much of something can cause an adverse affect. And that's what I feel happened with tamiya chassis. It's stiff as ply wood sideways and soft front to back. To me they got their weave backwards. The samix chassis is stiffer front to rear but softer side to side. But not to soft to where it feels floppy.

I have good expectations at Nats this week with the softer chassis in 17.5. Will report and say how it goes

Akita

Hi , I am considering to rebuilt my car for next season .
Which brands do you prefer for ball bearings and screws ?

JoeyE

iTrader: (45)

Acer bearings and Hiro Seiko screw set.