Team Associated TC4
#5836
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by brooksy
Hi Joe.the guy i bought it from races nitro TC3,so it could be 200mm not 190mm.many thanks for help.
#5837
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
Need more steering,That would be off power going into a turn.Set up I'm using now I got off the associated site,Juho Levanen's rubber tire carpet track.The problem I'm having is not enough turn in steering,if i dial in more steering it makes the very darty and still has the same problem..no turn in steering..help..
#5838
Kat: What have you tried on your setup to give it more turn in so far? I'd start screwing around with caster first...Softening up the front in seems to give more turn in while stiffening the rear gives more rotation comming out (It took me nearly a year racing just to learn that )
Only two more years until I have freedom and can take some road trips to Oasis & catch up on lost time
I get my TC4 next week! Yay! If its anything like my TC3 I'm gonna love it
Only two more years until I have freedom and can take some road trips to Oasis & catch up on lost time
I get my TC4 next week! Yay! If its anything like my TC3 I'm gonna love it
#5839
-XXXKat: Try toe-ing out the front arms (inboard toe-out) A wider front pivot-block than rear. Its a trick I used a couple times on the 415 and the Pro4 to get some more turn-in while maintaining stability.
Or...(I bet you tried this already...) Try unscrewing the rear droop screws
Brainwave! LOL
Or...(I bet you tried this already...) Try unscrewing the rear droop screws
Brainwave! LOL
#5840
Anybody know of who makes Titaniun driveshfts for the TC4? Also, what about a light weight center drive shaft? I need to lose some rotating mass.
#5841
Tech Rookie
Originally Posted by busman
the diff ring gear center is bigger inside where it slips oner the oneway center section and bolts on, the little outdrive cups that slip inside the oneway brg are larger on the heavyduty oneway, so there are two different oneway out drives that you can order, compare the ring gear with a standard differential gear, if the one that came on your oneway is sloppy big when you try to fit it on the diff, its a HD unit, if it's close to the same size as a standard diff gear it's a llight duty. good luck, hope I explained it well enough.
#5842
Tech Apprentice
TC3 to TC4 Chassis upgrade
All the other guys at my track have changed to the tc4, I'm the last tc3 running regularly. If you can't beat 'em join 'em, so what kit do I buy (I can't join the car of the week club) any input on witch one, 3Racing, Factory team, BMI, IRS,or what ever.
#5843
Tech Elite
iTrader: (44)
TC4 Differential question
I have read the instruction, but I have noticed that when you tighten the differential then back it off 1/2 turn, per the instructions, it does not seem to be very free. I'm a little new to this sport, so sorry if this is a dumb question.
At 3/4 to 1 turn it seems to be much freer.
The reason that I'm asking, is I broke the outdrives from a crash, and I have a spare that came with the car, but when I put it in the drivetrain was not as free as the one in the car.
PVC pipes are hell on car
I'm asking if this normal?
At 3/4 to 1 turn it seems to be much freer.
The reason that I'm asking, is I broke the outdrives from a crash, and I have a spare that came with the car, but when I put it in the drivetrain was not as free as the one in the car.
PVC pipes are hell on car
I'm asking if this normal?
#5844
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by rcracenut
Anybody know of who makes Titaniun driveshfts for the TC4? Also, what about a light weight center drive shaft? I need to lose some rotating mass.
NIFTECH makes great parts, go to website, "call them" on the phone, great people to deal with, top notch stuff, have used their parts on 1/12 scale and NTC3 titanium drive shaft. have bought misc. TC3 drivetrain parts, great diff parts, anyhow give them a call. BUY USA!!!!!!!
#5845
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
I posted this on teh stock motor forum, but then as I thiought about it it seemes to fit the tc4 forum also. SO if you think youve got de ja vu, now you know why.
Guys I am not sure what do do at this point with my stock motor. I bought it new and "pro-tuned" from a reliable tuner nearby (Go Lightspeed!!) and have been running it in my TC4 for about 20-30 runs. Some 5 min racing, some 5 min practice runs, but all in the tc4. I have pulled it apart after every four runs, cleaned the com using q-tips and motor cleaner and then polished/cleaned it with the green comm stick. I have never gotten motor spray on the brushes, and they're not burnt. I have been gearing on the conservative side and my motor can temps around 170 after a five min run. I have the dual fan set-up that blows on the end bell so the endbell comes off the track around 135. I also run a motor spray saturated q-tip through the brush hoods after every four runs and lube the bushings (royal oil) after those four runs, sometimes two. I figured the comm was badly due for a cut, so I took some pre and post diameters from the comm. I was getting a very consistant .294" and .293" all the way around, and top to bottom. So I cut it, just shaving as little as I could to get it all the same color. I checked again and got .293" everywhere. OK, enought nerd data. I have the EXACT same set of brushes in this motor it came with. The serrations are gone, but they're not short by any means. What do I do now?
A. Run the motor at low volts for 300 secs to seat the old brushes to the new comm surface
B. Suck it up and spend money on new brushes and seat them at low volts for 300 sec.
C. Something else
Consider that the race immediately preceding teh comm cut I ran my best and fastest racve ever and won the rookie stock a-main in my club race. I mention this to highlight that I am looking for an economical way to keep it in at least as good condition as it was right before I cut teh comm. I mean, c'mon; I race rookie. I dont need a screamer, just a reliable motor. I'd rather spend the $$ on practice fees to get better
WHew!! What a book!!
Thanks for any and all comments
Andrew Doherty
Guys I am not sure what do do at this point with my stock motor. I bought it new and "pro-tuned" from a reliable tuner nearby (Go Lightspeed!!) and have been running it in my TC4 for about 20-30 runs. Some 5 min racing, some 5 min practice runs, but all in the tc4. I have pulled it apart after every four runs, cleaned the com using q-tips and motor cleaner and then polished/cleaned it with the green comm stick. I have never gotten motor spray on the brushes, and they're not burnt. I have been gearing on the conservative side and my motor can temps around 170 after a five min run. I have the dual fan set-up that blows on the end bell so the endbell comes off the track around 135. I also run a motor spray saturated q-tip through the brush hoods after every four runs and lube the bushings (royal oil) after those four runs, sometimes two. I figured the comm was badly due for a cut, so I took some pre and post diameters from the comm. I was getting a very consistant .294" and .293" all the way around, and top to bottom. So I cut it, just shaving as little as I could to get it all the same color. I checked again and got .293" everywhere. OK, enought nerd data. I have the EXACT same set of brushes in this motor it came with. The serrations are gone, but they're not short by any means. What do I do now?
A. Run the motor at low volts for 300 secs to seat the old brushes to the new comm surface
B. Suck it up and spend money on new brushes and seat them at low volts for 300 sec.
C. Something else
Consider that the race immediately preceding teh comm cut I ran my best and fastest racve ever and won the rookie stock a-main in my club race. I mention this to highlight that I am looking for an economical way to keep it in at least as good condition as it was right before I cut teh comm. I mean, c'mon; I race rookie. I dont need a screamer, just a reliable motor. I'd rather spend the $$ on practice fees to get better
WHew!! What a book!!
Thanks for any and all comments
Andrew Doherty
#5846
lumberjak...
I would go with the team kit and get a BMI chassis. The BMI has some very nice design details that help with tunning. In my opinion, there is no other choice.
#5847
Anyone know if the Sqaure...
delrin outdrives are any good for the TC4? Do they hold up well in mod?
#5848
I guess this question is for Tony P.Have you guys tried to get rid of the steering slop in the ft edition?If so will it be available for the people that have the reg tub chassis?
thanks
AL
thanks
AL
#5849
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by RCknight
delrin outdrives are any good for the TC4? Do they hold up well in mod?
Matt
#5850
Tech Apprentice
TC3 to TC4 Chassis upgrade
RCknight, thanks for your input. But the question was, what chassis kit is best to convert my tc3 to tc4 specs. Sorry for the confusion, it just seems redundant to buy a whole new car just to strip that for a drivetrain I already have. Also, ( I'm not bashing anyones products ,but,) BMI is hard to get any info. on (price, pictures, avalabilaty) the websight makes no mention of this car. The factory team is unavalible at this time (again, no info.), IRS is just a fantom product ( no info, but everyone's heard about it) 3Racing is readily avalable on Ebay.