66LikesHot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
09-03-2014, 11:19 AM
#4456
any other kits out there that not in texas(to save the sales tax) that will ship? hopefully one that will pricematch.
09-03-2014, 01:33 PM
#4457
Rebuilt all my diffs last night. Opened up my front (7000) and rear (3000) and nothing was in them... I think I read in this thread that someone else had that happen to them. Weird, maybe all the lube flew out if it from rotation?... Idk but the center still had the 100,000 still in it
09-03-2014, 01:53 PM
#4458
When I built my kit, I filled the diffs per the manual, and per how I do 1/8th diffs, just enough oil to cover the cross pins. After watching Ty Tessman's youtube video how-to for building the diffs for this kit tho, I went back and re-did the center and front diffs (so far) to completely fill the diffs to the top with oil. I guess with the much smaller diff sizes, it's (hopefully) OK to do this. Not much oil volume to expand, and not as much heat generated as an escale running on a big track for 10 min. And I can definitely see the need to build the diffs the same way every time for consistency. With such small volumes, any different amount of air left in the diff is gonna change the emulsified oil's relative viscosity and affect the handling. Still have to re-do the rear diff and fill it up. Even used an old Ride air-remover from the old TC shocks days.
09-03-2014, 04:25 PM
#4459
Rebuilt all my diffs last night. Opened up my front (7000) and rear (3000) and nothing was in them... I think I read in this thread that someone else had that happen to them. Weird, maybe all the lube flew out if it from rotation?... Idk but the center still had the 100,000 still in it
09-03-2014, 06:25 PM
#4460
Tech Adept
Managed to break the rear shock tower 
.
.
09-03-2014, 09:16 PM
#4461
Does anyone know where in south OC that has parts support for this buggy? Knowing that HPI is in Foothill Ranch you would think there would be tons of shops with parts but I can't seem to find any. They list hobby people (nothing in stock), Gyro (nothing for this buggy), and Ultimate Hobbies (closing and moving). I emailed HPI/Hot Bodies with no response.
Just don't want to have to run to ebay every time I break something.
Just don't want to have to run to ebay every time I break something.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...d413&search=Go
09-03-2014, 10:12 PM
#4463
Any chance they have parts for this car at the LH track hobby shop? Im showing up pretty thin on spares. Friday Night will be first laps with the new car for me.
09-04-2014, 06:38 AM
#4465
Best thing you can do is switch to TLR Ball Cups. Those things are tanks and rarely if ever break and I've found them to be the absolute most precise and free moving cups I've ever tried. I run a 410 which is pretty heavy and I would pop and break ball cups regularly and since I had a ton of TLR cups and ball studs I decided to give them a try and I have never had to replace one until now, and only because the turnbuckle itself is bent, and it's a Lunsford. Never popped the cup which speaks to how solid they are.
09-04-2014, 07:05 AM
#4466
Tech Adept
I was wondering if someone can tell me how the stock springs compare to the AE springs as they seem to use completely different rating systems
09-04-2014, 08:19 AM
#4467
Best thing you can do is switch to TLR Ball Cups. Those things are tanks and rarely if ever break and I've found them to be the absolute most precise and free moving cups I've ever tried. I run a 410 which is pretty heavy and I would pop and break ball cups regularly and since I had a ton of TLR cups and ball studs I decided to give them a try and I have never had to replace one until now, and only because the turnbuckle itself is bent, and it's a Lunsford. Never popped the cup which speaks to how solid they are.
09-04-2014, 08:25 AM
#4468
Tech Adept
TLR are great ball cups and friend switched also
But
Ball cups can pop off. Sometimes when adjusting the turnbuckles. Seem to be super tight in the ball cup.
Solution:
Best way to do this, put grease in the ball cup hole, use a drill to "train" the threads first, make sure you do both ends, and mark which one is the left and right hand thread.
After taking the time to do this, you will never have that problem again.
Read this on another site
But
Ball cups can pop off. Sometimes when adjusting the turnbuckles. Seem to be super tight in the ball cup.
Solution:
Best way to do this, put grease in the ball cup hole, use a drill to "train" the threads first, make sure you do both ends, and mark which one is the left and right hand thread.
After taking the time to do this, you will never have that problem again.
Read this on another site
09-04-2014, 08:48 AM
#4469
Best system EVER: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD902&P=7
http://www2.gpmd.com/imagel/d/ldubq1745.jpg
DONE!!!
And contrary to popular (misguided) belief, they do not bind at all and are almost bullet proof. I have these on my 25+ year old RC10 and they are worn but still flawless in terms of functionality.
http://www2.gpmd.com/imagel/d/ldubq1745.jpg
DONE!!!
And contrary to popular (misguided) belief, they do not bind at all and are almost bullet proof. I have these on my 25+ year old RC10 and they are worn but still flawless in terms of functionality.
Last edited by the incubus; 09-04-2014 at 09:04 AM.
09-04-2014, 09:06 AM
#4470
ok, this car is now around 6 months old. How is it holding up aside from the spur gear? Outdrives and diff wear? What parts break the most? What are the critical upgrades? Anyone running this car with a 10.5? I never really like super fast motors. And a 10.5 is probably fine for the indoor racing I do. I just dont have it over heating if the car tends to run motors a little hot.