G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Hi everyone,

as I got bored waiting for the 3Racing FGX 2016, I decided to make my own car based on what I would like to see on a 1/10 F1 RC. So I learned on YouTube how to use Solidworks and then I designed the car. It was a very stunning experience, which took some times (started in february 2017) but now the first "real" prototype is here (3D printed parts, thanks Shapeways), and I'm pretty proud of my work

So here are the main specs of my car:
- 200mm wide (no other option due to technical reason, but as the real F1 are 2m wide, that's ok)
- fully belt driven rear transmission (from motor to transmission axle then from transmission axle to gear diff), so there is no "classic" pinions or spurs
- Spec-R gear diff with Xray T4 gear diff holders
- rear indepedent suspension, based on the 3Racing FGX (only one shock at the rear on the pictures but there will be 2)
- rear anti-roll bar ready
- monoshock front suspension (not sure of the result, I took my inspiration from what it's been done on large scale 1/5 F1), but I also developed a more classical front independent suspension with 2 shocks that fits under the body
- fully adjustable rear suspension (camber, toe, caster,...); Awesomatix style
- fully adjustable front suspension (Awesomatix style)
- 2 positions for the battery: longitudinal (as shown on the pictures) with winglets for ESC and RX, but transversal is also possible
- 3 ways to mount the servo: fixed to the chassis and to the upper plate (as shown on pictures), fixed (chassis) or floating (upper plate)
- use of traditional front and rear wing (like Montech, Serpent,...)

















All my creations are protected by copyright!

Regards,
G-rem

Mr Brooksy

iTrader: (1)

G-rem, that is cool! Seriously great work. I love the thought you've put into it and the detail.

Further progress reports will be exciting to see! Thanks so much for sharing!

Scott_T

iTrader: (5)

Very cool G-Rem, nice to see an awesome scratch-built car.

Only question is - do sensored motors run OK in reverse? I honestly don't know. Or would it be easier to spin the motor around the other way?

Look forward to seeing more progress.

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

Sensored motors runs fine in reverse.

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

G-Rem you old genius Nice work!

Please leak more details like how the monoshock works.

Also: Was there no way to make the rear motormount lower?

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

What's a good set of tires that hook up on black carpet?

f1larry

iTrader: (22)

The CRC premounts work well, you just need to glue the sidewalls on both fronts and backs.

Big Features

iTrader: (4)

What about asphalt? What is the "go to" for med grip outside?

lagcisco

iTrader: (40)

G-rem is my hero! Great looking work

JayL

Softer but no air gap like the Pits have.
IMO if the track has decent grip the rear is more stable without the diffing out but not diffing out feeling pit rears sometimes have. but the ride rears wear QUICK

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

Pit shumizu 573 or 571 fronts depending on grip, 572 rears

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Thanks!

The monoshock works in a simple way: 1 front rocker where both left and right susension links are connected; so that it acts as a dampening system and also like an anti-roll bar.
Normally, there is some lateral play on the rocker to manage one-wheel bump but guys who runs large scale 1/5 F1 always lock that play. It results in a milder front end (for 1/10, I assume I'll have to choose very good front tyres as most of time we lack some steering).

As I said, I'm not sure of the result, maybe on track it will be a complete disaster, that's the reason why I also developed a more conventional independent front suspension, with 2 rockers ant 2 shocks. We'll see how it works when I hit the track

Regarding the rear motor mount, the position of the motor is almost good (the final version of the main chassis won't have that big cut under the motor, but only a more classical "not-opened" cutout), and I was obliged to make such a big "arch" above in order to match the height of the opposite parts as the solder tabs of the motor have to pass under...Did you see any improvement for that?

Good point! I didn't think about that, but that won't be a problem at all as WTCC did the same for its custom FF car:

R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - Tamiya FF03

[EDIT]: I finally decided to switch the motor position, makink it a 180° turn, in order to not have to deal with electronic modification in the sensor

Regards,
G-rem

HugoW

Hi guys,

do you balance your wheels? And if so, how? I just put on a new set of Ride XRs, mandatory in my class, and their clearly out of balance. The front tires teter-totter back and forth and settle in with the heaviest piont down (yes, I have very good bearings) and so does the rear axle when I leave off the pinion. When I throttle up, at about 2/3 throttle with everything spinning freely in the air, I get a nasty resonance shaking the entire rear pod.

Please advise.
Cheers,

Hugo

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Kid's modeling clay is great for adding weight to the opposite side of the heavy side.
Ideal is to have the wheel stop at a different spot each time you spin it.
At least have the heavy side and the "clay" side stop on opposite sides from each other.
No, not top and bottom

If your bearings are super dialed like you say, you can balance em like that, prop balancers and wheel balancers are available and work the same way.

jpx

I bought some Tamiya spring sets.
Could someone help and tell me, how hard/soft (spring rate or just from softest to hardest) those are?
1. Roll spring set #54352 with 4 pairs of springs black, copper, silver, gold
2. Front spring set #50509 with 3 different springs (4 each) black, silver, gold