1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...
Hi everyone,
as I got bored waiting for the 3Racing FGX 2016, I decided to make my own car based on what I would like to see on a 1/10 F1 RC. So I learned on YouTube how to use Solidworks and then I designed the car. It was a very stunning experience, which took some times (started in february 2017) but now the first "real" prototype is here (3D printed parts, thanks Shapeways), and I'm pretty proud of my work
So here are the main specs of my car:
- 200mm wide (no other option due to technical reason, but as the real F1 are 2m wide, that's ok)
- fully belt driven rear transmission (from motor to transmission axle then from transmission axle to gear diff), so there is no "classic" pinions or spurs
- Spec-R gear diff with Xray T4 gear diff holders
- rear indepedent suspension, based on the 3Racing FGX (only one shock at the rear on the pictures but there will be 2)
- rear anti-roll bar ready
- monoshock front suspension (not sure of the result, I took my inspiration from what it's been done on large scale 1/5 F1), but I also developed a more classical front independent suspension with 2 shocks that fits under the body
- fully adjustable rear suspension (camber, toe, caster,...); Awesomatix style
- fully adjustable front suspension (Awesomatix style)
- 2 positions for the battery: longitudinal (as shown on the pictures) with winglets for ESC and RX, but transversal is also possible
- 3 ways to mount the servo: fixed to the chassis and to the upper plate (as shown on pictures), fixed (chassis) or floating (upper plate)
- use of traditional front and rear wing (like Montech, Serpent,...)
All my creations are protected by copyright!
Regards,
G-rem
as I got bored waiting for the 3Racing FGX 2016, I decided to make my own car based on what I would like to see on a 1/10 F1 RC. So I learned on YouTube how to use Solidworks and then I designed the car. It was a very stunning experience, which took some times (started in february 2017) but now the first "real" prototype is here (3D printed parts, thanks Shapeways), and I'm pretty proud of my work
So here are the main specs of my car:
- 200mm wide (no other option due to technical reason, but as the real F1 are 2m wide, that's ok)
- fully belt driven rear transmission (from motor to transmission axle then from transmission axle to gear diff), so there is no "classic" pinions or spurs
- Spec-R gear diff with Xray T4 gear diff holders
- rear indepedent suspension, based on the 3Racing FGX (only one shock at the rear on the pictures but there will be 2)
- rear anti-roll bar ready
- monoshock front suspension (not sure of the result, I took my inspiration from what it's been done on large scale 1/5 F1), but I also developed a more classical front independent suspension with 2 shocks that fits under the body
- fully adjustable rear suspension (camber, toe, caster,...); Awesomatix style
- fully adjustable front suspension (Awesomatix style)
- 2 positions for the battery: longitudinal (as shown on the pictures) with winglets for ESC and RX, but transversal is also possible
- 3 ways to mount the servo: fixed to the chassis and to the upper plate (as shown on pictures), fixed (chassis) or floating (upper plate)
- use of traditional front and rear wing (like Montech, Serpent,...)
All my creations are protected by copyright!
Regards,
G-rem
Last edited by G-rem; 10-03-2017 at 02:45 AM.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
G-rem, that is cool! Seriously great work. I love the thought you've put into it and the detail.
Further progress reports will be exciting to see! Thanks so much for sharing!
Further progress reports will be exciting to see! Thanks so much for sharing!
Very cool G-Rem, nice to see an awesome scratch-built car.
Only question is - do sensored motors run OK in reverse? I honestly don't know. Or would it be easier to spin the motor around the other way?
Look forward to seeing more progress.
Only question is - do sensored motors run OK in reverse? I honestly don't know. Or would it be easier to spin the motor around the other way?
Look forward to seeing more progress.
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Sensored motors runs fine in reverse.
G-Rem you old genius Nice work!
Please leak more details like how the monoshock works.
Also: Was there no way to make the rear motormount lower?
Please leak more details like how the monoshock works.
Also: Was there no way to make the rear motormount lower?
Tech Elite
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What's a good set of tires that hook up on black carpet?
Tech Elite
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Tech Master
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What about asphalt? What is the "go to" for med grip outside?
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G-rem is my hero! Great looking work
IMO if the track has decent grip the rear is more stable without the diffing out but not diffing out feeling pit rears sometimes have. but the ride rears wear QUICK
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
The monoshock works in a simple way: 1 front rocker where both left and right susension links are connected; so that it acts as a dampening system and also like an anti-roll bar.
Normally, there is some lateral play on the rocker to manage one-wheel bump but guys who runs large scale 1/5 F1 always lock that play. It results in a milder front end (for 1/10, I assume I'll have to choose very good front tyres as most of time we lack some steering).
As I said, I'm not sure of the result, maybe on track it will be a complete disaster, that's the reason why I also developed a more conventional independent front suspension, with 2 rockers ant 2 shocks. We'll see how it works when I hit the track
Regarding the rear motor mount, the position of the motor is almost good (the final version of the main chassis won't have that big cut under the motor, but only a more classical "not-opened" cutout), and I was obliged to make such a big "arch" above in order to match the height of the opposite parts as the solder tabs of the motor have to pass under...Did you see any improvement for that?
Originally Posted by disaster999
Sensored motors runs fine in reverse.
Originally Posted by wtcc
Ok, now there is one thing, which nearly killed this project for me. And I thought I could not come up with a solution. But looking at this problem now, it wasn`t a problem at all and even gave me a deeper understanding about sensored brushless motors. What am I blabbering about ( ) is that with the front-middle-motor-configuration we turned the motor around 180°. So it turns in the wrong direction. For unsensored and brushed motors this is not a problem. Just switch plus and minus cables or A & C. But a sensored motor will not turn with just changing cable position or the esc will even tell you there is a problem and do nothing. There are three steps to make a sensored brushless motor of any make switch its rotating direction:
1. Switch cable position A & C on the motor side
2. Switch sensor cable pin position: pin #2 with pin #4 on the motor side. Don't be afraid here. Just count the wires from left to right. If you did it wrong nothing will happen. Then bring it back in the original order and just count from the other side and voilá it works! Just don't change the most outter pins: pin #1 with pin #6 that is plus and minus
Here is an overview:
Pin#1 - ground potential (minus)
Pin#2 - sensor phase C
Pin#3 - sensor phase B
Pin#4 - sensor phase A
Pin#5 - motor temperature sensing
Pin#6 - sensors feeding +5.0V
1. Switch cable position A & C on the motor side
2. Switch sensor cable pin position: pin #2 with pin #4 on the motor side. Don't be afraid here. Just count the wires from left to right. If you did it wrong nothing will happen. Then bring it back in the original order and just count from the other side and voilá it works! Just don't change the most outter pins: pin #1 with pin #6 that is plus and minus
Here is an overview:
Pin#1 - ground potential (minus)
Pin#2 - sensor phase C
Pin#3 - sensor phase B
Pin#4 - sensor phase A
Pin#5 - motor temperature sensing
Pin#6 - sensors feeding +5.0V
[EDIT]: I finally decided to switch the motor position, makink it a 180° turn, in order to not have to deal with electronic modification in the sensor
Regards,
G-rem
Last edited by G-rem; 04-08-2017 at 12:54 AM.
Tech Regular
Hi guys,
do you balance your wheels? And if so, how? I just put on a new set of Ride XRs, mandatory in my class, and their clearly out of balance. The front tires teter-totter back and forth and settle in with the heaviest piont down (yes, I have very good bearings) and so does the rear axle when I leave off the pinion. When I throttle up, at about 2/3 throttle with everything spinning freely in the air, I get a nasty resonance shaking the entire rear pod.
Please advise.
Cheers,
Hugo
do you balance your wheels? And if so, how? I just put on a new set of Ride XRs, mandatory in my class, and their clearly out of balance. The front tires teter-totter back and forth and settle in with the heaviest piont down (yes, I have very good bearings) and so does the rear axle when I leave off the pinion. When I throttle up, at about 2/3 throttle with everything spinning freely in the air, I get a nasty resonance shaking the entire rear pod.
Please advise.
Cheers,
Hugo
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Hi guys,
do you balance your wheels? And if so, how? I just put on a new set of Ride XRs, mandatory in my class, and their clearly out of balance. The front tires teter-totter back and forth and settle in with the heaviest piont down (yes, I have very good bearings) and so does the rear axle when I leave off the pinion. When I throttle up, at about 2/3 throttle with everything spinning freely in the air, I get a nasty resonance shaking the entire rear pod.
Please advise.
Cheers,
Hugo
do you balance your wheels? And if so, how? I just put on a new set of Ride XRs, mandatory in my class, and their clearly out of balance. The front tires teter-totter back and forth and settle in with the heaviest piont down (yes, I have very good bearings) and so does the rear axle when I leave off the pinion. When I throttle up, at about 2/3 throttle with everything spinning freely in the air, I get a nasty resonance shaking the entire rear pod.
Please advise.
Cheers,
Hugo
Ideal is to have the wheel stop at a different spot each time you spin it.
At least have the heavy side and the "clay" side stop on opposite sides from each other.
No, not top and bottom
If your bearings are super dialed like you say, you can balance em like that, prop balancers and wheel balancers are available and work the same way.
I bought some Tamiya spring sets.
Could someone help and tell me, how hard/soft (spring rate or just from softest to hardest) those are?
1. Roll spring set #54352 with 4 pairs of springs black, copper, silver, gold
2. Front spring set #50509 with 3 different springs (4 each) black, silver, gold
Could someone help and tell me, how hard/soft (spring rate or just from softest to hardest) those are?
1. Roll spring set #54352 with 4 pairs of springs black, copper, silver, gold
2. Front spring set #50509 with 3 different springs (4 each) black, silver, gold