cherry2blost

iTrader: (1)

Told you it was a 'just in case' thing don't do it it's up to you it's just I have used these ESC's for an awful long time and these are my personal opinions for mr the extra time involved is a small price to pay for constant fault free useage.

drsmooth

iTrader: (33)

[QUOTE=irgo;8689253]if you had error message when flashing please do it againQUOTE]

I did have the error message the first try at the download, and reflashed it again. If that's what everyone means when they say to "flash it twice", then I had to do it twice too. I always thought flashing it twice meant to do two successful downloads.

matt prigmore

Last at racing I experience the esc going onto a sensorless state twice on the start grid, in practice the car was fine but when I started a racing using full throttle the car when into this mode whitch I then had to switch the car on and of and all was fine.

I have change the sensor lead, strip motor and cleaned.

One thing I have notice for some reason I'd set the volt cut off at 3.2v per cell would this have cause this to happen.
Lrp 5900 50c ten charges old and running 1224 software and Sp v3 13.5.
All opinions welcome
Thanks matt

terryh

I always set the cutoff to 3.2v and have never had any issues, even after a practice run where I put over 4800mah back in, I was out for a while

M7H

And flashing it 3 times or 4, 5, 6... 10?
Just in case, to be really sure?...
Or is this to much?

irgo

Latest New Hobbywing till 3rd Generation 2010
-------------------------------

Boost Start RPM range

1000RPM
2000RPM
3000RPM
4000RPM
4500RPM ( available at Previous version )
5000RPM
6000RPM
7000RPM
7500RPM ( available at Previous Version )
8000RPM
9000RPM
10000RPM
10500RPM ( available at Previous version )
11000RPM
12000RPM
13000RPM
13500RPM ( available at previous version )
14000RPM
15000RPM
17000RPM sadly it's only (detected at V3.0_110119MOD) when using 13.5t
19000RPM sadly it's only (detected at V3.0_110119MOD) when using 11.5t


60 Degree Timing by:
Boost 0~60deg
Turbo/SuperCharge 0~40deg

Boost Acceleration
50rpm/deg~750rpm/deg (50rpm Increment option)
and
900rpm/deg (available at V3.0_101224)


Turbo Open Delay 0.1sec~0.8sec

Turbo Open Time
1.5deg/0.1sec (available at V3.0_101224,HW V3.0_110105)
3deg/0.1sec
6deg/0.1sec
9deg/0.1sec (available at V3.0_101224)
12deg/0.1sec
18deg/0.1sec
24deg/0.1sec
Fastest


Been Tested the Fact on the Track with many Kit. :-)
--------------------------------------------------------------

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Snore, just get out there and run it!

stevebaker

Worth checking the motor timing hasn't slipped?? My SP V3 moved when I had a heavy impact while racing and it felt like it was running sensorless. I think I have read on here somewhere that the endbell set to 0 degrees is equivalent to retarding the timing!!
It is only the pressure of the rubber gasket inside the endbell holding the sensor board in place.

Mitch-e4fs

iTrader: (7)

Is it a 2.0 or 2.1? I had the same problem with my 2.0 so I changed to an xtreme stock and have had no problems so far.

matt prigmore

I'm running a Sp prostock 2.1, I'm going to check the car and motor avian and see what I find.

Rocking Donkey

I've been having exactly the same problem with a SP GT2.0 LPF. I know it isn't a problem with the motor or sensor cable as I have tried two different motors and two different sensor cables with it and all of them work when connected to my trusty Novak GTB. I assumed that the speedo was just broken so picked up an Xtreme stock, however there seem to be a number of people having the exact same problem on the SP thread to, but nobody seems to have an answer. I have reflashed the 2-in-1 box more than twice, and the same with the esc. If anyone on here has any ideas that would be a great help.

Ben

cherry2blost

iTrader: (1)

There were some issues with the SP sensor boards in earlier posts on the SP thread, people were having to replace them as they were blowing, also remember if you run a motor up to full revs unloaded you run the risk of blowing the sensor board on ANY motor.

scytherat

Can anyone shed any light on my problem i had on sunday racing. First race the car was alot slower than usual, e.g no boost/ timing advance, So i though maybe its the sensor lead, changed the lead and cleaned the motor out. Also put a better battery in just incase it was that, was fine for 1/2 a lap then went slow again, checked the lights on the esc and it flashes green in neutral, I believe this is overheat warning light, but it cant be too hot as only done half a lap.lol. Any ideas what would cause this?? Hoping its not the esc as its only 5 months old

whoopass

what motor? it is a sensor problem, not necessarily a lead problem. sometimes the sensor board shorts on the can. well it does with the corally red motor anyways....

scytherat

Its a Nosram Storm Evo 10.5 X11. Ive been running this motor on the xtreme since i bought the esc and its always been fine. Maybe the motors dead then!