Schumacher Mi4
#2461
Tech Adept
Just buy the new schumacher steel shafts and spool or diff cups. Very little chatter and only on full lock( which far exceeds the cvd's limits). No sign of wear after a lot of practice and three/four meetings now. And the axles fit the bearings so 1.5 degrees of camber is that and not +/- 2degres of 1.5degress like some other companies.
#2462
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
I just rebuilt my diff. I sanded the diff rings on 1500, like Chris's video, but I should have used a fresh piece of paper for the 2nd ring. I also used new balls, but kept the old spring washers. I also washed and scrubbed the pulley twice. I think I tightened it the way the video recommended... screw it in until it just engages the springs, then another half turn. It's much, much better. Nice and smooth, and doesn't slip. It still feels a little "thick" from all the grease, but it's smooth.
-Mike
#2463
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
First serious run with the CX on the weekend and its very good considering we are breaking in a new surface coat on the track. Couple of questions.
I have a problem with the rear suspension. I am running the second hole from center on the shock tower and I wanted to run the shocks in the outside hole on the arm. With this configuration the ball cup on the end of the shock fouls the much more rim's I am using. My options are using another companies shorter ball end and cups and changing the geometry of the rear suspension or investing more money in Sorex tires on speed mind rims which do not foul and i cant really afford.
Would it be advisable to possibly take out 1mm of shim from the rear bulk head and add 1mm shim to the wheel hex to get me a little more clearance? Would this adversely affect my handling as it would shorten my camber links and possibly reduce rer toe i na touch. I was doing hand brake turns unexpectedly with the wheels rubbing and leaving the arm hole the same position and leaning the shock all the way in did not have the desired affect. Basically we are looking for a roll center change without investing in the alloy blocks to drop the arms in the rear. Any help is appreciated. Regards Benzaah.
I have a problem with the rear suspension. I am running the second hole from center on the shock tower and I wanted to run the shocks in the outside hole on the arm. With this configuration the ball cup on the end of the shock fouls the much more rim's I am using. My options are using another companies shorter ball end and cups and changing the geometry of the rear suspension or investing more money in Sorex tires on speed mind rims which do not foul and i cant really afford.
Would it be advisable to possibly take out 1mm of shim from the rear bulk head and add 1mm shim to the wheel hex to get me a little more clearance? Would this adversely affect my handling as it would shorten my camber links and possibly reduce rer toe i na touch. I was doing hand brake turns unexpectedly with the wheels rubbing and leaving the arm hole the same position and leaning the shock all the way in did not have the desired affect. Basically we are looking for a roll center change without investing in the alloy blocks to drop the arms in the rear. Any help is appreciated. Regards Benzaah.
#2464
I've not touched the diff on my MI4LP since I built it last August, and it is still silky smooth with zero slip.
Qualified 5th yesterday (after setting a new PB) and finished 2nd and 3rd in the two 13.5 finals, and that is running on used RP30 tyres someone threw away a few years back.
Qualified 5th yesterday (after setting a new PB) and finished 2nd and 3rd in the two 13.5 finals, and that is running on used RP30 tyres someone threw away a few years back.
#2465
#2468
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Where did you see the Top one done? Any online how-to's?
-Mike
#2471
Spec R Tamiya Gear diff, With tamiya shafts and tamiya front pulley, a fella in the UK done this mod last year
#2475
Im not sure what diff it is other than a Spec-R The front Spool pulley had to be changed too which changed the internal ratio, and i dont think there Xray ball studs, there just drilled out schumacher ones