52LikesTeam Losi JRXS Type-R
10-25-2010, 02:53 PM
THanks in advance!
10-25-2010, 03:16 PM
Which capacity are you talking about if I may ask? There seem to be a variation of 24mm ~ 26mm height http://www.thunderpowerrc.com/PDF/Th...RC-Pricing.pdf I need to pin point the external dimensions. I haven't got my car yet (on it's way), and I'm being careful not to order a batt which may end up not fitting properly THanks in advance!
THanks in advance!23.5 x 46.5 x 138 (HTH)
10-25-2010, 03:54 PM
Hi all,
I had the chance the run with the new Exotek topdeck today. All I can say is woooow, the result is impressing if you are using rubbers. The setup needs to be changed completely but in the end you will get a better steering and easier to drive car.
I had the chance the run with the new Exotek topdeck today. All I can say is woooow, the result is impressing if you are using rubbers. The setup needs to be changed completely but in the end you will get a better steering and easier to drive car.
Thanks
10-25-2010, 04:18 PM
i run thunder power batteries and they fit with a little mod
you may have to dremmel the battery tray ( if it is the old tray )
you may have to shim the center lay shaft, so the pully dosent rub the battery.
and a mid size servo is all so a good idea but not a necessity
you may have to dremmel the battery tray ( if it is the old tray )
you may have to shim the center lay shaft, so the pully dosent rub the battery.
and a mid size servo is all so a good idea but not a necessity
10-25-2010, 05:08 PM
10-26-2010, 12:20 AM
You can also dremel or file down from the bulkheads and the inner side of 23T pulleys easily.
thanks man, I was concern because most of the high capacity cells (5500/5600 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting**************5500/5600******end_of_the_skype_highlighting begin_of_the_skype_highlighting**************5500/5600******end_of_the_skype_highlighting begin_of_the_skype_highlighting**************5500/5600******end_of_the_skype_highlighting begin_of_the_skype_highlighting**************5500/5600******end_of_the_skype_highlighting) are all 25~26mm tall. This will be the 1st time I'll run the losi so I don't know much except speculate
10-26-2010, 09:18 AM
Tech Adept
Hello Jamin,
It's very much depends on how you build diff. Also on the grease you are using. If you look closely the 2 sides of the diff rings are different. One has a more round edge inside while the other is more sharp. I use this sharp side against the balls and also of course sand them on a flat surface to be sure they are perfectly flat. I suggest to use AE clear grease on the balls and black on the thurst. Finally, use Tamiya AG grease 54032 between the diff house-brass ring-diff ring. With this method you can achieve the same tightness with much less load on the balls. Hope this helps.
It's very much depends on how you build diff. Also on the grease you are using. If you look closely the 2 sides of the diff rings are different. One has a more round edge inside while the other is more sharp. I use this sharp side against the balls and also of course sand them on a flat surface to be sure they are perfectly flat. I suggest to use AE clear grease on the balls and black on the thurst. Finally, use Tamiya AG grease 54032 between the diff house-brass ring-diff ring. With this method you can achieve the same tightness with much less load on the balls. Hope this helps.
10-27-2010, 12:06 AM
It's because of the second spacer ring in the diff. i actually glued mine together and the the diff itself so it doesn't slip. You can also add a drop of glue via screw driver to plastic diff nut and it will do up tighter. I also run ceramic thrust and ceramic diff balls or carbide diff balls!! whichever you prefer. you can get the ceramics from rc market they are branded arena
10-28-2010, 04:18 PM
Just finished building my JRX-S Type R and thought I would give some notes on the build to those of you that are new to Touring Cars like me. I go in order of the manual with some tips or issues I had in the build.
Be careful when opening up the bags, there are tons of tiny parts and they tend to get stuck together or hide inside one another.
TAP ALL PLASTIC THREADS WITH THE TAP SCREW or you will strip the threads in the plastic. Forgot to do it once and broke a locating pin in the arm.
When you install the bulkheads, you might want to install your motor as well as I had to tear apart the car to get my Novak motor in that has the heat sink built into the can.
The diffs went together fine and feel silky smooth, the blue diff seal can get pinched in the diff tube if its not seated properly.
My real bulkhead/diff assembly would not line up very well. I shaved off some material on the inside ring of the eccentric bearing so the shock tower holes would line up better. Seams like the holes in the shock tower are a couple mm's too narrow?? I left pretty much every screw in the bulkheads and chassis loose and tightened them all at the end so I didn't have any tweak in the chassis.
You will definitely have to dremel out some material in the spindle carrier to stop the shrink wrap on the LCD's from binding. Bit of a pain in the ass and probably the worst part of the kit.
It's really easy to strip plastic with the set screws, snug is enough.
The cap of one of my shocks was not completely finished when it was milled so I had to trim the diameter of the Shock Top so it would seat properly.
When you put the upper deck on, snap the steering link to the servo first as space is tight once the upper deck is on.
To get my lipo to fit I had to CAREFULLY cut away the sides at the back that were binding the top shaft pullys. Also had to shave a bit off at the front where the servo horn was touching. Tight fit but I got it to work.
I had to round the edges of the hex adapters so they would go into my JACO blues. Not really sure if they will come out again!!
Really happy with the JRX-S so far, tomorrow is club night and the first chance I will have to test it out, and my first time racing a TC
. Can't wait.
Be careful when opening up the bags, there are tons of tiny parts and they tend to get stuck together or hide inside one another.
TAP ALL PLASTIC THREADS WITH THE TAP SCREW or you will strip the threads in the plastic. Forgot to do it once and broke a locating pin in the arm.
When you install the bulkheads, you might want to install your motor as well as I had to tear apart the car to get my Novak motor in that has the heat sink built into the can.
The diffs went together fine and feel silky smooth, the blue diff seal can get pinched in the diff tube if its not seated properly.
My real bulkhead/diff assembly would not line up very well. I shaved off some material on the inside ring of the eccentric bearing so the shock tower holes would line up better. Seams like the holes in the shock tower are a couple mm's too narrow?? I left pretty much every screw in the bulkheads and chassis loose and tightened them all at the end so I didn't have any tweak in the chassis.
You will definitely have to dremel out some material in the spindle carrier to stop the shrink wrap on the LCD's from binding. Bit of a pain in the ass and probably the worst part of the kit.
It's really easy to strip plastic with the set screws, snug is enough.
The cap of one of my shocks was not completely finished when it was milled so I had to trim the diameter of the Shock Top so it would seat properly.
When you put the upper deck on, snap the steering link to the servo first as space is tight once the upper deck is on.
To get my lipo to fit I had to CAREFULLY cut away the sides at the back that were binding the top shaft pullys. Also had to shave a bit off at the front where the servo horn was touching. Tight fit but I got it to work.
I had to round the edges of the hex adapters so they would go into my JACO blues. Not really sure if they will come out again!!
Really happy with the JRX-S so far, tomorrow is club night and the first chance I will have to test it out, and my first time racing a TC
. Can't wait.
10-28-2010, 05:08 PM
keep us updated! I'll be getting mine this Tuesday or so
10-28-2010, 05:29 PM
You won't be disappointed, pictures on the net don't do justice to how good the parts are. I got CA glue fingerprints on the chassis when I glued the edges, almost wept
Team Whitey
Team Whitey
10-28-2010, 09:01 PM
I'm really looking foward to getting one of these kits and I still am but that sounds like a lot of B.S. to have happen when building a new kit. Sounds like you had to make some parts fit or line up.
Anyone else have these issues?
Anyone else have these issues?
10-28-2010, 09:22 PM
When I got my jrxs last year. The went together flawlessly. The fit and finish was top notch. This car gave me a new respect for losi. I love the car. Just pay attention to the manual. You'll love this car.
10-28-2010, 10:12 PM
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Losi JRXS Type R
hey guys got my car used , came with a boatload of parts , also has a spur gear adapter so i can use anyones's spur gears , any ideas as to where the gear adapter came from ? Company etc ? please email me if u do , thanks BIG d , [email protected]
10-28-2010, 11:51 PM
Tech Adept
Back on page 817 I did a little blurb on my build, you new people might want to check it out as this car is having a resurrection. Also check out the hints that some of the regulars suggested to my original post - they were quite helpful.
On my first outing I broke some of the plastic gears in my servo and when I tried to replace it with a metal geared servo I had laying around it would not fit as the servo case interfered with the front bulkhead. I rebuilt my original servo and loosened up the servo saver a little but haven't had a chance to race test since. Some good low priced servo suggestions would be appreciated - I stay away from high priced servos since quite frankly my skill level does not benefit from the added performance! It appears that you need to pay a little attention to your servo selection with the amount of available space.
I was really pleased with everything else, love the car.
On my first outing I broke some of the plastic gears in my servo and when I tried to replace it with a metal geared servo I had laying around it would not fit as the servo case interfered with the front bulkhead. I rebuilt my original servo and loosened up the servo saver a little but haven't had a chance to race test since. Some good low priced servo suggestions would be appreciated - I stay away from high priced servos since quite frankly my skill level does not benefit from the added performance! It appears that you need to pay a little attention to your servo selection with the amount of available space.
I was really pleased with everything else, love the car.