XMSRacing

iTrader: (11)

I think more then anything, what it boils down to is your driving style. I haven't driven any of these cars (yet) but have noticed from talking with people that each drives just a bit different. I decided on getting BOTH the FT TC4 and the RDX just for the reason. I've been told the TC4 is very twitchy and responsive due to its shaft drive, where is the RDX and its belt drive are very smooth - nearly anyway you drive it.

Dont bash it just because it doesn't suit you or your application. Obviously it has proven it can win. As has the RDX, the Xray, Tamiya, etc, etc, etc.

I just finished building my FT TC4 and had no issues what so ever. Yes, there was some trimming of parts and so on.. but who cares about that? The only thing I have any concern for is one of the diff grears. Everytime it rotates to a certain spot, it kind of binds up slightly. But, I'm more then sure this will disappear after a few runs on the track.

nmt6789

Does anyone have tips on how to get the nut for the steel diffs on? I dont seem to have a wrench that fits in there? Is there a special wrench? Or am i doing something wrong?

Michael Barch

The battery connector? I guess, I just started into racing so I don't know much, I just bought the RTR TC4, bought the FT Conversion kit, and Monster Pro motor.

I still use the cheap battery packs, Im looking to start building packs soon though, and getting a new servo.

nmt6789

I figured it out now... I need the rebuild kit with the t nut.

Soviet

iTrader: (2)

I was just angry at my car last night...it stood me up on a date.

I'm just going back to square 1 with the car and giving her a second chance.

Soviet

iTrader: (2)

I'm actually single and 300lbs overweight. I also dropped out of highschool.





See the above post...

XMSRacing

iTrader: (11)

lol

Soviet

iTrader: (2)

Hardy har har...

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Well I had a RDX and I have a FT TC4. I have zero problems running the exact same laptimes. I will say each car drives a little differant on the track.

Ran my TC4 tonight and it started off not handling well but each heat the adjusmtents I makde each run dialed the car in. For me the car is very easy to adjust but not too many adjustments. Not saying the car is the best but it is as equal to any of the other high dollar cars I have ran and I have tired most of them. For me ease of getting parts and simple to work on.

Soviet

iTrader: (2)

The FT-TC4 is simply a finicky car. Ferraris are finicky, so are any other high end racing-bred machine. Whether or not they are a personal showstopper is completely up to the driver. I love the car and WANT it to work for me...however I feel that for indoor carpet, belt just may be the way to go. I have decided to work up my FT-TC4 for full outdoor asphalt warfare, where the car seems to shine most. Long sweepers, insane straights and flowing corners. I wholeheartedly believe that the car will shine on that sort of track.



Again...personal choice. Plus I am not a very good driver anyhow. I probably need the "hand-holding" feel of a belt car to make it around an indoor track quickly.

bummy

hey what size allen ball drivers to work on me tc4 cheers i all ready got 1.5mm 2.0mm 2.5mm now i need imperial. so yeah what is all i need. thanks

ralph_c

Fair enough Soviet, I over-reacted. Hope you get it sorted after starting from square 1 with it.

I've just raced mine this morning and loved the direct and responsive feeling of the car. I have removed the stand-offs though as I couldn't get my lines right otherwise (a bit unpredictable when cornering with them). I was a lot quicker than with my last car, finishing 3rd in the A-final, beaten by two drivers (one with a tc4 with a lot of hop-ups, one with an Xray). I was competetive with those at the top and can definately improve my racing with this car. There are still adjustments I need to make to extract the cars full potential, but I don't doubt there isn't the speed there. For me the car felt really nice, and I liked the precise and responsive steering feel. I'm actually surprised people say they struggle to achieve enough turn-in. I ran about 80% dual rate to dial some out on a tight carpet track.

Overall an awesome car in my opinion - I much prefer the shaft drive 'snappy' acceleration and free drivetrain. I was noticably quicker on the straights as well as the corners. This car has made racing fun again. With my previous car (Yokomo mr4 special) it felt dull running stock. Now it feels like racing a 19t. . I was surprised to break a plastic outdrive on only my second run, but was intending to get the Square RC delrin ones eventually, so not too big a problem.

Ralph

P.S

ralph_c

The ones you need are:
.050
1/16
3/32
5/64
also nut drivers:
3/16
11/32

Hope that helps

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Well Soviet I run my car on asphalt but next week I will run it on carpet. I only run carpet once a year so truthfully I could careless if the car works well on the rug. I'm lucky enough to be able to run asphalt year around as we have 2 indoor asphalt tracks close by. It might not be a great carpet car as most other brands out make all kinds of different parts to run carpet and now some are making a asphalt car and carpet car so it is seemingly turning into almost needing two different cars for carpet and asphalt which I simply won't do.

My experiance with the FT is at least on asphalt it works good on all tracks but might not be the best at everyone I go to. Car always seems to be pretty close at all the track I go to and for me that is what I'm looking for.

With so many cars out on the market it is really hard to stick with one car thats for sure.

SA_Racer

Has anyone here had problems with the VCS2 upgrade on their shocks? I did mine this week and it built like a dream. everything went together just like the instructions,

I did the oil, blader, big foam, small foam and then the top. Also put the stopper on the shaft between the balcup and the shock and all seemed to look good. tested dampening and everything was spot on, but then after my first run I noticed all the shocks were sticky at the top where the top screws on. so where did I go wrong. insturctions said I should remove the old rubber seal which I did and I cant see why they would leak, as the bladder is pushing right against the aloy body and that alone should cause a good seal.

thanks