SteveM

iTrader: (165)

+1 on that.

DBM

Finally placed the order for the R1 Pro Spec today. I wanted to order from TQRCracing, but the kit was $40 cheaper from RCmart. I also ordered a body, DJCD's, extra arms, c-hubs, steering blocks, and tamiya ball cups. I'll order the wheels/tires, metal outdrives, 64p spur and pinions, traction compound, oils, green slime, springs, servo saver, Xray hard bumper, and 7mm hex's from TQRC. I still haven't decided on a radio, but the Airtronics mx-v is on the top of my list for a budget radio. I'm on the fence about getting a Spektrum. I've read varying reviews on Spektrum, but I have 9 dsm/dsm2 receivers from my combat robots and airplanes. All I want is adjustable expo and end points for now. I can upgrade to a better radio in the future and keep the cheap one as a backup.

valk

iTrader: (13)

I'd spring for the mt4 if you can afford. Mx3x is also great.

OldfartWal

iTrader: (2)

+1 on the MT4, yeah it's more dollero's but worth every penny, I have a 3PL & a MT4, like chalk & cheese, much nicer & more accurate with the MT4, the radio is one place you shouldn't think to save money (in my opinion).

DriveItLikeYSIT

iTrader: (93)

Airtronics is coming out with the new MT-4s with LCD backlight..

I'll stick with the cheaper MT-4 until you can adjust after market ESC settings from the MT-4s

rtenzo02

iTrader: (3)

Would it be a bad idea to build my spec r gear diff now if I dont plan on driving the car for about another 2 months ? Im building this car piece by piece ordering parts (kitless) my local track is in the middle of there Winter season and I plan on practicing with the car when Im done building and racing in June in there summer season series. Plus I have to buy all electronics incl a 2.4 radio. Im in no hurry to drive this thing, taking my time. Would it hurt to build the diff dry to set the car up and say rebuild it with green slime and diff oil just before Im ready to get it on the track ?

daveaustin5

iTrader: (1)

I gave my pro spec it's first outing last night.

It was a completely different track layout and everyone was struggling for grip in the practice and the first heat. It made it hard to judge the car but it was going ok. Lots of steering but little rear.

As the track bedded in the car got better. I wasn't racing very well but my times were good (for me!). I was making quite a few mistakes and the car took a few big hits but it kept going fine. Despite my mistakes I was keeping similar pace to my clean runs with the S1.

The car did feel very twitchy. I'm going to add a bit of toe inn at the front and play with my expo settings, hopefully that will sort it.

I seem to be having issues with the screws though. They don't seem to stick in the alloy parts. The steering assembly was loose and full of play after each run. One screw came out of the hinge pin mount causing an early retirement from the last race. The servo mount would also come loose. I'll loctite them all this week and pray they stay in.

nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

Loctite?

daveaustin5

iTrader: (1)

It's a make of thread lock.

A bit like saying you're going to hoover the house (instead of vacuum).

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

for the guys that have broke the suspension pins, which ones have broke - the inner ones (closest to the chassis) or the other ones (by the c-hubs/rear hubs)?

trying to figure out which ones I need to look for - I wanna replace them before I start building (and, well ordering the kit) kit so that I don't have an unfortunate part failure during a race

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Outer pins, C-hubs and steering blocks, I'd have spares of all of those. Also, if you're running DCJs, get some spare pins and retainer springs (they're sold together anyway).

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

I already plan on the hubs and knuckles... and I usually have a set (or 2) of the suspension pins - but I read of guys breaking the pins themselves, so I wanted to replace them from the beginning

I've already seen kyosho makes a set of inner pins - just need to find a source for the outer ones

for guys that have replaced the ball-ends - has anyone tried going with ones from the TCX/TCXX and the losi JRXS type R ball cups? the losi cups were an option with the TCX to tighten up the slop - I did it on mine and it made a major difference. I was thinking about trying it on the S1 when I get mine - but was curious if anyone else tried that route (yes, I know Tamiya's are cheap and the popular choice - but was wondering about the other)

JimmyMack12

Re: Spec-R S1:

Looking for some aluminum shocks. The top cap threads on two of my stock plastic shock bodies seemed to have stripped :/

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

I have a mix of Tamiya and Losi JRXs cups on my car. The problem is that the JRXs cups are not made anymore....sucks. Also the JRXs cups use a smaller size ball stud so you will have to change the ball studs to match. The stock ballstuds work fine with Tamiya cups. I think that I will be looking into TOP ball cups and studs to see how they work out they look like JRXs cups but I think have a larger ball.

vadersing

iTrader: (8)

Has anyone successfully transplanted ARC R10 parts on to SPEC-R R1? Which parts fit?

Heard the ARC parts are cheap and good. Especially the drive train and A arms