130LikesTA-05 ver.2
12-17-2010, 01:02 AM
#1531
But mind you the TA05 version does NOT have LED buckets or lighting options which is a real bummer. I considered ordering the TT01 one with the lights before I came across the Kyosho 575.
Just finished the car. Body tomorrow if I find the time. I have some special wheels as well. Once the 575 body comes I'll make the gallardo body a street body.
Running an EZRUN 35a ESC with a 4300kv motor. Im going to want to upgrade. Whats the maximum you guys would recommend on 2s for street duty?
Ralphie Likes it
Turnigy Lipo fits great.
Just finished the car. Body tomorrow if I find the time. I have some special wheels as well. Once the 575 body comes I'll make the gallardo body a street body.
Running an EZRUN 35a ESC with a 4300kv motor. Im going to want to upgrade. Whats the maximum you guys would recommend on 2s for street duty?
Ralphie Likes it
Turnigy Lipo fits great.
12-18-2010, 02:49 PM
#1532
I've just purchased an TA05 ifs v2 with exotek chassis now that the chassis been out a few months has anyone got a setup for one as a starting point. Can be either tarmac or carpet.
cheers
Trev
cheers
Trev
12-18-2010, 07:24 PM
#1533
Go back to page 100 post #1500 and check VooDooPH's setup for the Exotek chassis. Last week I was looking for a setup too for that chassis and VooDooPH was kind enough to share his. I tried the setup and it worked OK but I really like the way car drives with the tub chassis so I'm going to change it back.
12-18-2010, 07:26 PM
#1534
so far this works for me:
FRONT
1C-1C
1mm spacers under the suspension blocks
innermost hole (CF shocktower)
2nd to the outermost hole (arm)
3mm spacer on upper camberlink
400wt oil / silver HPI springs
spool
5mm wheel hex
medium sway bar
around .5-1deg toe-out
REAR
1X-1D (2deg toe)
1.5mm spacers under the suspension blocks
innermost hole (CF shock tower)
2nd to the outermost hole (arm)
2mm spacer on the upper camberlink
outermost hole on the rear upright
3mm spacer for the outer campberlink (on the rear upright)
300wt oil / blue HPI springs
alum ball diff
5mm wheel hex
softest sway bar
running 13.5 with boost, rubber tires
PF Speed6 with stock wing
not the fastest car on the track but its fun to drive...
FRONT
1C-1C
1mm spacers under the suspension blocks
innermost hole (CF shocktower)
2nd to the outermost hole (arm)
3mm spacer on upper camberlink
400wt oil / silver HPI springs
spool
5mm wheel hex
medium sway bar
around .5-1deg toe-out
REAR
1X-1D (2deg toe)
1.5mm spacers under the suspension blocks
innermost hole (CF shock tower)
2nd to the outermost hole (arm)
2mm spacer on the upper camberlink
outermost hole on the rear upright
3mm spacer for the outer campberlink (on the rear upright)
300wt oil / blue HPI springs
alum ball diff
5mm wheel hex
softest sway bar
running 13.5 with boost, rubber tires
PF Speed6 with stock wing
not the fastest car on the track but its fun to drive...
12-18-2010, 07:35 PM
#1535
Tech Master
I agree with you, I tried the Exotec chassis and the tub chassis the lap times were identical and I couldn't feel too much difference.
Go back to page 100 post #1500 and check VooDooPH's setup for the Exotek chassis. Last week I was looking for a setup too for that chassis and VooDooPH was kind enough to share his. I tried the setup and it worked OK but I really like the way car drives with the tub chassis so I'm going to change it back.
12-18-2010, 11:01 PM
#1537
Finally done with my TA05v2 Gallardo,
Some bodies are too pretty too drill holes in...
I used balsa wood because it is light, and keep cutting body posts until I have the ride height I want. Then drill the balsa wood. This will act as base for he velcro mount. Use a rotary sander to sand down the body posts for a flat surface.
Apply hook and loop velco, make sure it is secure.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/__OT3YJ9o9Ao/TQ...0/IMG_1580.JPG
All done
Done product. No body posts for a clean look. The velcro is so strong you can pick the car up by it.
Got a 60a 6000kv system coming for this sucker this week. Also HPI X-Patterns. Hope you guys enjoy. Body posts are a pain in the ass. This requires no body pins being lost, and is strong as hell. All you have to do is align the body with the wheels/chassis when you remount it.
Some bodies are too pretty too drill holes in...
I used balsa wood because it is light, and keep cutting body posts until I have the ride height I want. Then drill the balsa wood. This will act as base for he velcro mount. Use a rotary sander to sand down the body posts for a flat surface.
Apply hook and loop velco, make sure it is secure.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/__OT3YJ9o9Ao/TQ...0/IMG_1580.JPG
All done
Done product. No body posts for a clean look. The velcro is so strong you can pick the car up by it.
Got a 60a 6000kv system coming for this sucker this week. Also HPI X-Patterns. Hope you guys enjoy. Body posts are a pain in the ass. This requires no body pins being lost, and is strong as hell. All you have to do is align the body with the wheels/chassis when you remount it.
12-19-2010, 01:08 AM
#1538
I like the chassis and it was OK but the rear end of the car was a little too loose for my liking. I had plenty of help from the local sponsored guys and I tried many different setups it just didn't feel right for me.
12-19-2010, 09:07 AM
#1539
Finally done with my TA05v2 Gallardo,
Some bodies are too pretty too drill holes in...
I used balsa wood because it is light, and keep cutting body posts until I have the ride height I want. Then drill the balsa wood. This will act as base for he velcro mount. Use a rotary sander to sand down the body posts for a flat surface.
...
Got a 60a 6000kv system coming for this sucker this week. Also HPI X-Patterns. Hope you guys enjoy. Body posts are a pain in the ass. This requires no body pins being lost, and is strong as hell. All you have to do is align the body with the wheels/chassis when you remount it.
Some bodies are too pretty too drill holes in...
I used balsa wood because it is light, and keep cutting body posts until I have the ride height I want. Then drill the balsa wood. This will act as base for he velcro mount. Use a rotary sander to sand down the body posts for a flat surface.
...
Got a 60a 6000kv system coming for this sucker this week. Also HPI X-Patterns. Hope you guys enjoy. Body posts are a pain in the ass. This requires no body pins being lost, and is strong as hell. All you have to do is align the body with the wheels/chassis when you remount it.
ABC Hobby Stealth Mount
http://www.abchobbyusa.com/stealthmount.aspx
12-19-2010, 09:56 AM
#1540
nice job... but these might have been easier...
ABC Hobby Stealth Mount
http://www.abchobbyusa.com/stealthmount.aspx
ABC Hobby Stealth Mount
http://www.abchobbyusa.com/stealthmount.aspx
12-19-2010, 12:14 PM
#1541
Applying Large Stickers on Tamiya Body
Any secrets on applying large Tamiya stickers? It's so hard to pull off if it's not align properly, I actually tore a large piece trying to pull off to realign.
Can you put soapy water underneath so it doesn't stick right away, hopefully giving a little time to move the sticker to the property position? Any hints out there? Thanks.
Can you put soapy water underneath so it doesn't stick right away, hopefully giving a little time to move the sticker to the property position? Any hints out there? Thanks.
12-19-2010, 07:15 PM
#1542
12-19-2010, 10:39 PM
#1543
nice job... but these might have been easier...
ABC Hobby Stealth Mount
http://www.abchobbyusa.com/stealthmount.aspx
ABC Hobby Stealth Mount
http://www.abchobbyusa.com/stealthmount.aspx
Been there done that. Worst money I've spent in a long time.
did you know that ABC hobby from japan makes a stealth body mounts? i just bought them for my 1/10 knight rider. the body is just too nice to drill, and i used those mounts, the desing is very clever. it is actually a tight swivelling pad which you place double sided tape on, each 4 corners, then you position the body properly on them. once they stick, if you want to remove the body just yank on them hard and the hooks will come off from the mounts, and the pad with the tape still sticks to the body. to place them back, align the hooks and press in. though i wouldnt use this for racing, for my drift car, it adds scale realism and really worth it !
They're absolutely horrible you'll eventually find out. I have them on my unimog. It used to take 5 minutes just to get everything lined up so it'd click together and then the body would fall off just driving around on flat surfaces.
Wanna know how to make them work? Wrap them in 'female' velcro', remove the swiveling pivot balls and mounts and put the male velcro on the body. Now I can pick it up by the body and it never moves
Sorry to say but those are some of the worst products I've bought in RC ever. Only good for shelf queens.
Wanna know how to make them work? Wrap them in 'female' velcro', remove the swiveling pivot balls and mounts and put the male velcro on the body. Now I can pick it up by the body and it never moves
Sorry to say but those are some of the worst products I've bought in RC ever. Only good for shelf queens.
12-19-2010, 10:41 PM
#1544
Any secrets on applying large Tamiya stickers? It's so hard to pull off if it's not align properly, I actually tore a large piece trying to pull off to realign.
Can you put soapy water underneath so it doesn't stick right away, hopefully giving a little time to move the sticker to the property position? Any hints out there? Thanks.
Can you put soapy water underneath so it doesn't stick right away, hopefully giving a little time to move the sticker to the property position? Any hints out there? Thanks.
I said screw it, cut off the windshield, left the wipers, and hand painted the windows.
12-19-2010, 11:03 PM
#1545
I get frustrated putting the stickers on too. Then I see the prepainted bodies and wonder, "how the heck did they do that?"