bender

iTrader: (4)

The holes? Which ones?

King-G

the outer hole of the 3 on each steering bellcrank, gives a more aggressive steering response.

I started with the outer holes when I got my Mi2, but have used the middle position, with a centre link length of 40.5 - 41.0 mm ever since.

nice linear steering throughout the turn.

King-G

KidTTo1...the standard chassis should suit the Indoor track at canberra fine...as Its not Ozite it doesnt have the Bite that would really require an ultrastiff chassis...But if your using foams perhaps try the Teemu chassis.

Kambah when VHT is applied heavily is ultra grippy, so it would be a benefit there...But I wouldnt spend money on that until your really on top of the setup of the car and driving...


Gav

tao3

iTrader: (4)

Hi Gav do you know if any Schumacher driver's are coming to Perth for the National's later this year as it would be good to get some idea's for my son's MI2
Thanks
John

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I'm actually going to be trying the outer Ackerman holes this weekend. I'll post up how I like them.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

The holes you asked about.

rbboy

finally nailed the set-up on my Mi2... it is finally DIALED WOOOHOOO!!! anyone who may want to try the set-up PM me

belgianchamp

Helo,

Put it online so everybody can take a look @ your setup.

fjm9898

iTrader: (11)

if anyone is looking for or needs a new in box, never opened Mi2 let me know, drop me a PM, the link to the selling thread is in my signature

Jay Dub

Bender- I personally have used those holes alot (no jokes). I find that the outer holes give less initial steering, but better/more steering in middle of the corner. This should be because of the increase in ackerman provided by these holes. This is especially true for racing in high bite situations like foam tire carpet or VHT outdoor where steering geometry plays a larger roll in how the car handles. Note, I have only used these holes with a oneway or diff, I have never tried them with a spool. Also it is very important to re-adjust your bump steering when you make this change (or any front end change for that matter) so that it is the same as before trying the new holes. Many peple forget this, and get unexpected results for this reason.-Jeff

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

I have switched to the outer holes on the bellcranks recently. The car seems a lot more aggressive and seems to turn better mid corner. I use a spool 100% of the time.

I have always set my car to be neutral in bump toe but after reading some posts on Todd Hodge's thread and talking to him a bit I want to try some bump toe out next time I race.

King-G

Interesting Adrian..

I havent read Hodge's thread, but it has always been my understanding (from reading a number of engineering manuals) that Bump Toe out should be avoided.

Reduced steering angle of the laden wheel being the main reason, and also unpredictable bump handling response.

I have always used Neutral Bump steer, (on the Mi2 I use 2 x 2mm alloy spacers under the ballstud - With a long Tir Ballstud to ensure theres plenty of thread in the bellcrank to prevent it being stripped out)

pic: http://img8.exs.cx/img8/6192/F_gearbox.jpg

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

I thought just as you did. The laden wheel will straighten out as the chassis rolled with bump toe out and this is not what you want. However, the inside wheel will turn in more. As Todd explains it bump toe out gives a reactive Ackerman effect that increases turn in and steering in thigh corners.

This is one of those things that we can explain to death one way or another but we would be better off testing on the track. It is easy enough to try. Just remove one 2mm spacer from the bell crank ball stud, re-adjust your front toe and you will have bump toe out.

For neutral toe I mill the arm on the steering knuckle down to the mold parting line (~2mm) and add a 2mm spacer to the bell crank.

King-G

I really am finding it hard to believe that Toe out in bump will give noticable amount of steering gain, when you consider the following.

The Inner wheel (Unladen - closest to apex) has very little weight on it, and does only around 20% of the steering effort.

secondly the unladen wheel wont travel very far, hovering around neutral...it wont be in bump once the car transfers weight and sets...especially when we use 1-2 mm droop on todays T.C's.
If anything the perceived steering gain would come from the inside wheel kind of acting like a brake, as it scrubs beyond maximum useable slip angle.

How soft are your front springs to allow enough compression for the steering angle to actually change much?

I think the gain would come from initial bite from a little toe out as the nose dips slightly, but were talking about a pretty steep link angle for it to have an effect in the first 1-2mm of travel.

It may give a similar feel to reduced castor perhaps (at an extreme angle of steering link). so there is potential for initial steering gain, but I cant see how mid corner - exit would benefit.

Im going to test it this sunday, what the heck, it just darnt maken nun sense.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

Most of us use AE Blue (17lb) or Schu Pro Blue (16lb) springs up front.